I've got a problem that I haven't been able to remedy. The starter in my roadster stays on when I am trying to start the engine. I have had the starter rebuilt a couple of times and have replaced the solenoid more than three time. In fact, the one that is on it right now is brand new, used no more than a dozen times. I started it without problem about six times today, but then it stayed on and I couldn't get it started at all. I tried tapping the side of the solenoid with a hammer, but no avail. When I jump across the lead on the solenoid it does the same thing. When it does this, there is no spark to the distributor so it just cranks and cranks and cranks. It's in an open engine compartment and the headers should be far enough away from the starter to rule out overheating. Also, I can touch the solenoid with my bare hands, so it's not too hot. I'm at a loss. Any ideas? r
I can think of two things; The starter is too close to the ring gear or the return spring in the solenoid is too weak. Have you tried some shims or just loosen the starter bolts a little to try it.
Do not loosen the starter and try starting!!! Shim the starter first, tighten bolts and then try to start. The starter bolts must be tight when you attempt to start the engine or you will damage the ring gear or starter OR BOTH!!!!
Just loosen them a little so you can wiggle the starter and you'll likely hear the drive snap free. I've towed cars in where the bolts got so loose that the starter didn't touch the flywheel and just bolted them back up with no damage to the starter or ring gear. Ford starters will break the nose but they bolt on horizontally not vertically.
On SBC's we use the "allen key go/nogo gauge" IIRC a 1/8" allen key should fit between the starter shaft and the OD of the flexplate gear - while a 5/32" should NOT fit. Adjust (shim) starter until that is the case. Next - add the bracket to the front of the starter to MAINTAIN your adjustment. Next - I ALWAYS saved the IRON starter housing NOSES - those ALWAYS held their position way better than the aluminum noses ever did. Lastly check your IGNITON SWITCH - I once had one that had CARBON ARCHED enough between contacts that when it was OFF would stay off - however once you cranked the IGNITION the current kept running across the carbon tracks even though you let go of the switch - DC electricity is funny like that - it "wants" to maintain the flow and will ARC trying to do so - if there's carbon there the arc will RIDE the across the carbon even though you OPENED the switch. You can check this with METER - test across leads (ignition switch) that should be OPEN - there should NOT be resistance there - if there IS - it is a sign you have carbon tracking. That last one BTW was a BITCH to find when it "bit" me!!!!!
I've seen quite a few new starters that do NOT have the provisions to mount the support bracket that a lot of people recommend. I've never even seen one on a car, so take the recommendation for one with a grain of salt.
It sounds like you have a starter spacing problem to me. I have used a large paper clip unfolded to check the gap between the starter gear and the flywheel.
If you've replaced the solenoid you can probably rule that out, but... years ago I had one where the solenoid got bad and the copper disc in behind the main terminals would get pitted from trying to weld itself to the contacts. I took it out, flipped it over, took it out, filed it down and flipped it over, then finally got a new solenoid. It's worth a look, although on my car it would still start that way.
Rule of thumb - if a starter hangs in, it needs shimmed away from the flywheel. If it makes whining noise (you know the one), it needs to be moved closer to the flywheel.
That, or it'll snap the starter motor boss right off the block; a common occurance with the SBC, and lesser with the BBC.
A real life GM starter has a bolt that allows you to add a brace to attach the end of the starter to the side of the block. I think only two different braces. Old style big starters. This helps hold the starter in place as it does it's job. Will work fine without. But will work better with it. Also should use real GM style starter bolts as they are designed to help hold the big starter in alignment. I replaced the mini starter on my coupe with a rebuilt big GM from my friends shop. The big GM spins the motor faster than the mini did. And no does not have the high pitched Ching Ching noise.
"I had that happen and it turned out to be a bad ignition switch." Would this still be the case if I jump the leads on the solenoid and it does the same thing? r
No. Come by the house and pick up my mini. Or pick up the damned phone and we'll make an arrangement to get it to you. The engine in that roadster eats stock starters always has. Oh while your reading can I buy your A bone to build a gasser? The wife says it too cheap to let it leave the area.
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