my brake arm is 1.5" off centered. I need to move it over somehow to fit in the proper opening on the floor plate. Is it safe to cut the brake arm close to the pivot and weld on a 1.5" spacer? Should it be TIG or is MIG ok? Brake shaft where brake arm attaches....
I would off-set the entire pedal arm at its pivot point using a bushing, then off-set the push rod going into the booster an equal amount in the opposite direction. It may require a little more "massaging" but you get the idea.
You don't have picture of the whole pedal; but if looks like the normal aftermarket under floor pedal. I would just bend it over to the right, close to the pivot, that will move the section that goes thru the floor quite a bit.
You could put a 1-1/2" spacer between the frame rail and the pedal mounting bracket, moving everything over, or make a new floor plate with the hole in right place if the pedal pad will clear the steering column.
That being a 53-55 F-100 frame I believe you should have the stock pedal mount behind the new bracket. That will bring it out to where it belongs. Mount the new bracket to the old stock bracket. The Wizzard
In New Zealand we cant cut and weld a pedal and I hate to see them bent out to the side, when you do a panic stop it can twist up and that's not a good thing. Move the whole unit over, you will be happy you did. JW
Similar to here as well. I would go further and suggest that if you need to bend, upgrade to a thicker single piece of metal (1/2"') so it doesn't bend in a panic situation, or move the bracket the required distance. Alternatively, if you space it out from frame use a longer HT bolt and double sheer the pedal on the open side. No compromising safety!
Pist-n-Broke's got it right. http://www.customclassictrucks.com/...uel_master_power_brakes_install/photo_02.html
+1 on safety. Do the best you can do with the braking and steering. universal pedals can cause problems. Make sure when finished the the M/C bottoms completely out without fluid in. That is the only way the dual M/C safety system works correctly. Too many cars have the pedal bottom out on the floor before M/C bottoms out. This will cause the dual system not to function. Ago
pist-N-broke and unkledaddy, Thats not the bracket I have though. My bracket comes with a new pedal. There's a new shaft for the new pedal to swivel on too. Looks like this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-56-For...lve-Bracket-Pedal-Assembly-F100-/320915373351
Sorry about the bad info. I see it now. At this point if it were me I'd heat and realign it. I'd start at the pivot shaft to swing it outboard then just prior to the up sweep square it back so the pedal swings parrell to chassis center line. The Wizzard
Unless you have clearance problems with the column, wouldn't it be easier to just rework the floor plate?
After looking at the pedal last night, I've decided to return the floor plate to midfifty.com and make my own. I don't think I'll have a problem with pedal-column clearance. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here is what I did on my personal F-100. I've never had much luck with "kits" of any kind so I tend to use as much stock parts as possible. That is stock pedal unit and a home made mount just for the booster. Also no steering mount kit. Just stock floor tins with a 1965 Ford Truck steering column and a ring welded to it screwed to the tins. Cheep, Easy, and everything fits first time. The Wizzard
Well, ended up not messing with the pedal. Decided to return the floor plate and make my own. Used 1.5" hole saw for brake pedal and 2" hole for column. Had to grind column hole a little larger for it to fit. I think it looks great. The column mount is a piece of exhaust tubing that will have a couple screws securing the column. Kinda like the 2nd pic here. First pic is mine.
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