Projects 52 Dodge B3B Hemi Project

Knew some of the long tail 331s weren't drilled, hadn't heard about the D&Ds. There's an adaptor plate that drops the pump itself down a bit, don't know if Bob extended the oil pump's shaft to compensate. 70Chall might need to call Bob & ask, or post on the HH Q&A section, calling would probably be faster. Bob's shaft sticks up 2 1/4" from the pump edge9measuring down the side of the shaft to where it 1st touches a piece of the pump.

 

Let's take this in 2 parts which I will do in bullet points to make reading easier; first part is the oil pressure.

• the plug by the distributor is in place
• the anti drain valve is not installed
• the intermediate shaft "seems" to be engaging into the oil pump
• I have not spun it by drill yet as I am trying to sort out issue #2 (next post)

 

ok, the second issue, the wobbly distributor.

• exchanged the distributor with another one (new Mallory), a wobble still is present, although not as pronounced as with the stock Mopar unit
• I had a machinist check the intermediate gear/shaft; appears to be about 3 thou out but I do not think enough to make the distributor wobble as it is
• I am now thinking it might be the bushing; not sure (don't remember) if I replaced it during the rebuild

this one has really got me stumped. looking at the distributor shaft when installed and during turning it doesn't appear to move yet the distributor body (about mid way up) definitely does. I am going to have my machinist come over and we are going to try and measure in several locations to see if we can narrow down where it is emanating from.

 

some other observations;

1. the intermediate shaft is a little difficult to start in the bushing but once it begins it slides down fairly easily.
2. lining up the oil pump to get the intermediate shaft to seat fully ****s (must be some trick to this)
3. even if the intermediate shaft was bent, I would think that the helical gears would negate this effect, so the wobble has be coming from where the distributor meets the intermediate shaft.

as always, comments are highly encouraged and welcome. I greatly appreciate any insight/guidance.

 

the distributor shafts are stock length, Gary made me the intermediate shaft to compensate.

 

1. Factory patients tester!

 

not exactly sure what you mean by that.

 

just talked to my engine builder and he told me he replaced the intermediate shaft bushing and was confident it was good. After reading a lot online, I am now going back to the distributor being bad. I had replaced the first one with a new MSD (I typed Mallory previously); it did show some wobble but after looking at it, it didn't have the O ring in place and I didn't bolt it in or really hold it down. It showed dramatically less movement than the first one, so I am beginning to believe that I am jumping to conclusions without really working through it all; I need to slow my roll and take it one step at a time. therefore, I am going to get another distributor, try and build some oil pressure and see where that leads me.

 

Usually takes 2-3 tries, it can get annoying!

 

yes it can, I thought I had it figured out but if you are not right on it is a "no go".

 

guess I should have just went with a normal small block... of course I could have done what everyone else seems to, dropped a 350 Chebbie in there... NOT!!!!

 

I ordered a new (reman) distributor, so we will see how that goes. I am also waiting on my machinist who is making me a priming tool. I could have cobbled one together myself but he offered and he does really good work. If I can get some oil pressure going and get past this distributor wobble, I will move forward and see what other surprises await me.

 

Where the O/P shaft is a screwdriver end (basically) I just ground a groove in a piece of rod.

 

I was going to do exactly that but my machinist was adamant that he could made a better one that I could, so since I had to wait on the distributor it was a wash.

 

got the new distributor, you don't know how worn out stuff is until you see new versions.

 

Hope that's it.

 

me too.. if not I am not sure what to do.

 

I am watching the 2013 Me*** auction and they had a 63 Polara with big HAMB stickers on the rear quarters, kind of neat.

 

WE HAVE OIL PRESSURE!....


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in the process of putting it back together. I figured out the distributor deal, the intermediate shaft is too long by about 1/8th inch. I made a spacer and now it is happy.

 

I believe this length issue is a result of the modified oil pump issue, but regardless it is solved now.

 

Here is the shim I made






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Awesome bet that is one hell of a load off your mind. Is the "O" ring still going to seal ?

 

the O ring just protrudes under the shim, just enough to seal. the 1/8" is in the tolerance range, meaning it probably could be slightly thinner which would give more seal (albeit only a little), but since I didn't have any other material that is where I ended up. The engine shows good pressure when cranking, around 60-70 psi from what I have seen, so I am happy there.

Today, I intend to finish up some small issues and prepare to fire it up. I am not sure if I will do it as currently I am pretty much alone and I am thinking I want to wait until I have a buddy come over early next week to help me. that said, I might not be able to resist, I want to hear that motor run.. I am running 30" smithy mufflers for that "old school" look and sound, should be interesting.

 

worked on the truck all day. I had installed a "battery brain" as both a theft deterrent as well as a battery drainage stop. When I initially tried to turn over the engine to try and build oil pressure, the starter didn't work, I removed it and went back to O'Reilly's but it tested out good. I ended up direct wiring it as it was supposed to be (byp***ing the battery brain) and it worked. Well I "thought" it was a bad cable but today I rewired it and ran into the same issue, thus I believe the battery brain is defective. I also figured out that I wired the steering column incorrectly; not sure how that happened but it did.

 

That would deter theft....

 

well it is able to completely disconnect the power to the vehicle, so in that instance it would help.

 

I am having some wiring issues, specifically with the aftermarket column. Based on the wiring diagram, it has a lead from the column to the brake switch, however the wire it shows going there is connected to the brake switch. I have having a hard time figuring this out. The way it is now, there is a power wire going to one side of the brake switch and the out side is going to the tail lights, which works. I cannot figure out why that lead would go into the column, more than that is if I move it, then where is the wire to the lights? it is a GM style column.

 

hopefully I will get this engine running this weekend.