Technical Slide and Tilt Front End (the way I did it)Hope it helps someone

I like the idea of a slide'n'tilt. You don't have to chop the bottoms of the fenders off that way.
So what you going to stuff under that tilt front end?

You make it look pretty simple by the way. Good tech.

 

Well the hinge knuckle looks quite stout. I'm just not sure about sliders though.

I want to tilt mine but I've been avoiding the sliding business, because I can't make something easily, that slides easily, but wont rattle, and doesn't collect dirt on the slider. I'm building a driver, so hard to keep clean compared to a gasser or show car.

At one point I considered using telescopic motorcycle fork legs for the sliders, and putting the rubber gaiters on the sliding tube to keep the dirt off. I can get them cheap enough, but as short as I can make them and still work, they're too long to mate well with the available frame horns. I can do it, but it'll look hokey with the required bracketry.

What I'm considering now is a sort of rotating crossmember between the horns, which will toggle down tight like a vice grips when rotated back (closed) and will draw the nose forward maybe 4" and up slightly as it rotates forward.

Once that's rotated forward, the nose can pivot up without scraping the body.

 

I would like to know what everyone is using for a latch on the firewall to secure the front end, and hold the alignment. I am trying to finish mine up, after 20 years, and have a secure latch system. The tilt and slide is the easier part, latching, not so much. I am probably over thinking mine, but I want to finish off the body work before I die!-MIKE

 

Thanks Porknbeaner, if I ever finish this build, a mopar 383 and 4 speed will be in it until my 354 hemi is done so, I may be around 300 years old hahaha!!!! I did not want to cut my fenders so this is what I came up with. I looked everywhere on the internet but nothing on this subject was available unless you want to buy some elaborate plans for a high tech type rig. I'm old school and want to keep it that way and hope this post can be of help to anyone wanting to try a tilt set up. It is smooth as silk sliding out as well as tilting and when I get it running if it rattles I will just make some spring tensioners for it.

 

Lost Angel, It sounds kookie but I thought about using tool box latches at one point (the ones with the wire bail on them) so you can close then hook and latch. I thought it would look nicer than the rubber semi latches.

 

We built a hood latch and used a Chrysler Newyorker trunk power latch because it would pull down tight and stop any rattle issue Cadillac also had them on there cars , they have a pull down motor .


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I have two different latch setups on mine. One for my Austin is old Datsun/Nissan pickup hood latches bolted into plates in my fenders. They could also be mounted in a plate on the firewall and frontend. They much smaller than full sized car latches, and operate well to keep things aligned and latched solid. Latch in the lower fender:

Pin in the upper fender:


On my Falcon I simply used Jeep rubber hood hold downs, but installed them inside so I can reach into the wheelwell and hook/unhook them. You can see them hanging from the frontend in this pic:


I've seen guys use a linear bearing and shaft setup to slide the frontend forward easily. They sell them all over Ebay at decent prices, and in various sizes. Most guys find something in the 1"-1.25" diameter shaft will hold the weight of a steel tilt. Might go heavier if the metal was really heavy!
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/...LHyJka_nqO8PFkl9LVbHhQoXoJOkQvkUmkNM&usqp=CAE

 

WoW, nice work 1971BB427 !!! Looks great and I like the hidden jeep latches.

 

Thanks! The Jeep latches are dirt cheap at around $13 a pair on Fleabay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMPI-JEEP-R...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c373a7a5&vxp=mtr

 

I like the Datsun hood latch setup. I'm intending to have a lever under the dash, parallel to the cowl vent lever, which draws the nose down and back. It'll just toggle over center like a vise grip.

I think the toggle clamp idea can be used with multiple latches, as they would be easy to synchronize.

 

Nylatron slider cushions might help too. I don't know how much slop you have between the tubes.

 

Slides use two pin positions for open and closed and to lock steel front end in place with receiver pins at the bottom of cowl no latches required.

 

Very little slop, I think they will be fine but, I may try the nylatron cushions on the rotisserie I made.Thanks for the info Ulu

 

My pleasure Mike.
We used to use them on telescoping cranes at Grove/Manlift.
They bought a grade called Nylatron GSM, which is infused with moly grease.

 

Stewart that set up and car are just absolutely amazing!!!

 

I bought 1/4" thick Teflon material and glued it to the rub points on my Falcon. It not only stops noise, it helps it slide into place as I close it. Made mine 1" wide, and about 6"-7" long to cover the amount mine slides as it moves into place.

 

Hemimike I'd like a dime for everytime you stab yourself with the fender bottoms in the head or back, unless it will open way more its gonna hurt..lol..

 

I did this on an F100 a few years back.

Notice the tracks on the cowl. There were pins on the running boards that the tips of the fenders slid over. We used a bear jaw latch just in front of the radiator support to keep it down and had a flush mount handle under the "hood" where you expect to find it.







Just narrowed the bumper a touch but when closed it looked very much normal.

Worked just like the hood on my truck.

 

This is one of the few I've seen so far, that seems to open far enough.

 

Well that's not gonna blow open. ;D

 

Well, ya probably already made a buck and a half lol I took care of that today. I trimmed the valance panel HAHAHA!!! That's funny Seb thanks for the laugh......I wasn't laughing before because your right it did hurt lol

 

Try a 59 ford car hood latch assembly.57-58 are most likely the same. Cable release, pretty simple setup.

 

That's exactly why I cut the fender drops off on both of my cars. No sense in having a tilt frontend to get easy access to the engine, and then leave a head knocker right in the middle of the access.

 

I'm hoping I can get mine to tilt far enough so I don't need to bob the tips.

 

Maybe a door latch and striker turned sideways. Maybe a 57 ford hood latch. But it might have to move up before it slid out. I didn't say these were good ideas.

 

Ha I got a couple of originals off my '61 Willys that you can have. Those latches got used a lot on real race cars.

My '55 Vic that I had way back when was a lift off because I never got around to building the hinges for it and it was held on with 4 hood pins. With proper hinges it would have been held on with two. I have used seat belt buckles before with good success and if you wanted to go high tech a pair of electro-magnets works really well. Did it on a flip front end on a '55 Effy once for a guy that wanted something easy to open.

 

That's very generous sir. My stock of antique parts mainly consists of old computer parts.
Not a thing for a Willys of any vintage.

 

Do you have any more pictures that could show the homes better. If you do and would send the to my email. Mwp9966@yahoo.com. Thanks for your help on this

 

What homes? You added to a ten year old post, clarify and maybe someone can help.