Side work funded 28-29 RPU build.

Haha. Poor truck will be there a while. Tried to buy the cab and well, that didn't work. Guy was pleasant but the truck like it might have been redone prior to my birth and was a little ruff for 3k.


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If it moves under its own power, sometimes up in the Northeast, that's the kind of money people will ask, particularly with sheetmetal that's not all rotted out. Usually what you see for that kind of money with a Model A is a clean, restored driving frame though, not a runner that's falling in on itself.

Though, I've seen prices on bodies up here spike lately, so he's probably just basing it on the guy that wants $8k for his tudor body and the $23,000 restored RPU nearby.

I think there's a HAMBer in southern MA that's got most of a slant window body for sale that I've seen on CL for reasonable money.

 

Just scored a 66-77 bronco 9" complete drum to drum for $75, two model a friction shocks for $40, another wishbone for $50 since mines broken and a rear model A reversed eye posie lowering spring for $50. Wahoo, I'm pumped about the rear end. Is a model a grill shell with some cracks worth $50?


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those are some good prices in today's market...

 

what year A shell and how bad are the cracks?

 

Looks like you have the fab skills, looking forward to watching the build. keep us posted.

 

The shell was 28-29 I believe, forgot to take a picture. It wasn't in terrible shape, none of the cracks were the entire width if the shell. He also had a 30 pickup cab for $700 with all the patch panels


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$50 seems steep (at least around here) for an early shell that needs work... but prices are creeping up.
I've got a few shells that didn't sell when I was asking $40 (shit chrome on one, others are commercial)

that cab doesn't look half bad, though...

 

I gave $75 at swap meet in Denver last spring for a nice commercial 28/29 grill shell. I'm with ddaddylama in that the cab in picture is not bad for price.
But--I'm in Colo and prices are different here-lol

Nice score on other parts. Around here that early Bronco rear is over $400-if you can find one.

Earl

 

Thanks for the feedback. Dude had to pull the wishbone and I'm picking the stuff up Friday. I'll pass on the grille shell for now. I'm already getting a 31 cowl and rear panels and doors next week so I'll wait on the cab.


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Those are GREAT prices. Most folks will try to sell just a 9" housing for $300 in the Northeast lately. Having the complete brakes on it is another huge saver. Getting that rear end piece by piece could have cost you five times as much easily in these parts. If the shocks are in good order, not a bad deal. The Posie's spring is a major score. Pass on the grill shell; you can get a nice repop for $100 from Speedway (I have one, it's surprisingly nice).

 

For sure. At $20 a pop on the shocks I'll grab then and see what they are like when I get home. The rear end still has wheels and tires and he's just gunna load it with his backhoe. I'll likely go the re pop shell route, haven't figured if I'll do model a or 32 shell yet.


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I'm partial to the 28/29 shells, but that's my personal taste. Get something mocked up and stare at it a lot. Then you'll know what you want.

Wheels and tires, even if they're bald but hold air, is a MAJOR plus! That saves you a ton of effort, scrounging and money just for rolling stock. You might even be able to pop a moon cap on the wheels and run them if they're the stamped steelies. The pattern should be 5 on 5.5" too if I'm not mistaken. Post pics when you get this haul unloaded!

 

The 5x5.5 was the major reason I wanted this rear. I've got 3 16" wires and a 17. What's the going rate for
17" wires? He's got two and I might just snag those also. He is a cool cat and even though I told him I only brought $140 with me where I am up north he said, " don't sweat it, send me the rest when you get back or paypal it to me later". You don't meet people like that often.


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17" wires are popular, lots of guys using them on pre-war types.
I also scored a 9" rear out of a '64 F100...5 on 5.5". Brakes and all, Ebrake cable too.
VERY useable, but require a 1.25" spacer to use 16" wire wheels...(flat face drums)
Check your desired tread (width between rear tires)

 

Also snagged a 53-56 box and collar for $20 and 2 more 17" wires for $20. 9" has 4.11's, super pumped on my score.


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Found this in the river in northern vermont today.


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Your in score city!!! Better go buy a lottery ticket.

Earl

 

Haha. Found some Chevy caps and a cool steel crank in the river.


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You are making out like a bandit. That steering box was about $100 under-value. But I've noticed that prices do tend to be softer in the farther North. That's whey I like to buy stuff up in Maine whenever I can.

The wires themselves usually go for $20-$25 each, but having the drums/hubs saves you a lot of headache getting rolling and money if you can just turn and run them.

 

Found some Images on the HAMB with using split wishbone and a 56' ford box like mine. Sort of like this idea with the cowl steering. Got my second set of wishbones prepped after the drivers side of my original one was crap. Ordered $170 worth of stuff from Speedway and will get my front end sorted out and hopefully rolling shortly. Then the massive debate in my head to attempt and find 35-36 rear wishbones or build an old school ladder bar setup?

 

35/36 wishbones might be tough to find up our way at any price, so if you get a shot at a pair for any less than $200, jump on them. I might have a spare set of 40 rear bones I'd part with but you'd probably need to shorten them. I've got a set of 47 Merc rear bones too, but they're in the MINE pile, though they'd probably work fine in your application. As long as you run a torque arm and don't have huge HP numbers, you should be fine with that and rear bones 32-48. But fabbing ladder bars would get you set right up... so see how you feel when you get to the point you need something.

I'm doing cowl steering in my build with a later F100 box but I'm not into that stage so I don't have much of an opinion on it yet.

 

Just a little wisdom from my personal experiences. Get your wires trued before you paint them. I scored a set all painted and with repro white walls on the cheep, because they weren't trued before paint. Wobbly legs are fine for on and off a trailer but not fun at speed.

I like your project. Could even trade some stuff with you if the miles didn't separate us.

 

I might be interested in your 40' rear bones, having a hard time finding a picture though and can't remember the style. Headed down to your area this weekend to pickup a cowl, doors and slant window 4 door rear quarters and rear window panel. If it works out I can swing by and pick them up.

 

I could kill 2 birds with some old metal on this one and build a sweet hybrid rear ladder bar setup like the Rolling bones article in Streetrodder. PM me with a price on the rear bones please

 

Good point and thanks for the advice, I've got a stack of wheels to choose from now with 3 of both 16" and 17". I'l likely use 16's and have them spun first!!

 

I am contemplating running some 37-41' front bones used as a rear setup as in an older rod and custom article. I an not entirely convinced that this will hold by itself with my 9" and a heavy right foot. Would go this route as I can easily obtain a set of these and 35-36' rears are expensive as crap. Thoughts please!!!!

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/1002rc_1940_ford_front_wishbone/photo_24.html

 

Just a note of caution on any wishbones. Three out of five that I have in my stock (junk) pile have broken yokes.
I'd have them mag inspected before going any further

 

Got some boxes from the brown man today. Apparently the 7* shock taper bungs do not fit split tie rod ends. After finding this out it was already asked in the Q and A section on the part. Looks like I have 4 spare bungs now.

 

X2
I have four also-different type-same results. LOL
Earl