Projects Exhaust Smell Inside Car - Seal Firewall?

I have an issue with my 53 Chevy with a SBC 350. Any time I take my girlfriend for a ride she gets a headache and says our clothes smells like gasoline/exhaust.

Is this likely an issue with small holes in the firewall, or is this just normal? I admit I'm a beginner with this hobby but wondered if other people have this issue and how they dealt with it?

 

For sure seal up any holes in firewall and double check your entire exhaust system for leaks.

 

Check for exhaust leaks.
Where do the tailpipe exit?

 

Don't forget places like around the steering column and where the brake/clutch pedals come up through the floor.

 

Do you have rust holes in the floor or trunk? Do you have, and/or use, fresh air intakes and are they
leak free where they p*** through the engine compartment? Do you tailpipes extend past the rear bumper or terminate under the car? Does this happen (mostly) in city traffic with stop and go, or on the highway at cruise?

Is your carburetor the original or a replacement that is jetted correctly or running, as many/most are, waaay rich?

Determining the answers to these questions may help you locate the problem area, or areas, and correct them.

 

Trunk seal also , and not mentioned ,it can kill you.

 

Maybe you need a new girlfriend.

 

Thanks all. The pipes exit beyond the bumper. I suspect there are a lot of holes in the firewall and maybe under the floor. I also wouldn't be surprised if there are exhaust leaks because the tail pipes have been s****ed up badly in some areas from the previous owner.

 

If he doesn't get this fixed, he may need a 'replacement' for her.....***uming he survives

 

I would first fix whatever is causing the gasoline/exhaust fumes. Sealing up the cab is just putting a bandaid over the real problem.

 

Haha my girlfriend is a live in.. getting rid of her is harder than sealing up the car and finding the source of the exhaust/gas leaks

I see. In that case I have a ton of work to do, I imagine it could be all sorts of things that may need to be done by a shop. I know for sure the exhaust pipes are a mess.

 

as said, all exhaust leaks need to be fixed and exhaust routed out the back or side. is there a pcv system? any holes in the firewall, floor and trunk need to be sealed although not the right way, pop rivets, some sheet metal and caulk may just save your life and relationship.

 

Thanks, not sure if there is a PCV system, I'll take a look. I agree I don't like smelling like exhaust all the time either.

 

its a tailpipe issue obviously, but it can be coming in from a lot of different areas on the car body. it can be the firewall, the floor, the vents and kickpanel vent, or through your trunk into the inside of the car. the best bet isn't sealing the car body but making sure the tailpipe is sealed all the way out to the tip of the tailpipe.

first thing to check is the exhaust gasket on the block. no gasket sealer used so unbolt it and check or replace it. second is the exhaust/tailpipe gasket check that too. some cars use a lead donut check if yours is cracked or deteriorated. then check where the pipes are either welded together or held together by a bracket. check along the whole tailpipe from front to back if you see any holes or cracks that are minor if you have a mig welder hit it with it, if not use jb weld.

It will be easier to find the leak in the pipe than to find the leak in the body, because odds are its plenty of them in different areas unless you have a brand new car. what proves it is when It rains you can smell the rain with the windows rolled up, even a car with brand new weatherstripping will get that smell inside

worst case, after checking the pipe from the block and seeing everything is fine there, take the exhaust off from the manifold and plug it good with duct tape and plastic bag. on the other end stick some newspaper with a couple of drops of motor oil and burn it and stick it in there and when its almost done burning have someone lightly blow into the pipe to create pressure and see where smoke seeps out from. can also be done with cigarettes if you don't mind using up about half a pack trust me even a pin hole will blow the smoke

 

forgot to mention, the valve covers the pcv and block should be checked that the vent hoses are routed straight to the air cleaner to **** up all the fumes from the top of the block. my 48 smokes from vents in the valve cover and smells like exhaust. or get a respirator

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steampunk-H...pt=US_Costume_Accessories&hash=item540dc7639c

 

all three of my 49-54 chevies i have owned have had this problem and my wife tells me the same thing. . do you still have the fresh air duct tubes. (if that seal is bad or there is holes in those (rust) they will put smells into the car).

I have gone to the point of filling my firewall (filling all holes) to prevent. . Weld or seal all holes (check the trans tunnel access panel, it probably needs to be rseealed). and buy her a gas mask.

 

I would also bet on blowby from the engine, seal that car up. Gary

 

I hope you're getting the drift this is nothing to take lightly. When I was a teen I lost a good friend & his gf on a cool fall night to a leaky exhaust.

 

..............It is serious business, don't take it lightly. Sorry for the loss of your friends needlessly.

 

Thanks for all the advice everyone. The motor was rebuilt in 2009 supposedly and only have 300 or so miles on it. I hope I don't have to rebuild it and can seal the car up. I'm going to have the exhaust redone anyways since it is all s****ed up and may have some holes, but I wanted to put gl***packs on.

 

I want to seal up holes in the firewall and floor and trunk regardless of getting the exhaust checked out, etc. What is the best approach for someone who doesn't own a welder?

 

Thanks man, it was a long, long time ago, but it's a lesson you never forget.

 

OK.... forget all the stuff about holes in the firewall etc...... first thing is fix every exhaust leat you can find thru the complete system. Make sure there are no oil leaks and the PCV system is working correctly... notice I didn't address road draft, you have a 350, it should not have a road draft tube and DON"T USE BREATHERS!!! They only allow crankcase fumes into the engine compartment.

When you are free of all of the things that cause the appearance of fumes in the engine compartment, then the holes in the firewall are simply there to keep your feet warm in the winter.

 

Sheet metal, prolly about 22 gauge, trimmed to fit between the raised portions of your firewall...seal with silicone or caulk and attach with sheet metal screws or pop rivets...short ones...they don't need to be two inches long...and watch for wiring on the inside of the car so you don't drill thru that or screw thru it...that'll cause a m***ive short in the electrical system and could cause a fire...

R-

 

I think by investing in a good exhaust system you will find the problem solved.might even have the shop slope the ends to the road and have them check the ex manifold to head gasket.

 

obviously seal up the fire wall and the front, but take a good look at the back of the car. Trunk seal, taillight seals, open trim holes, rust holes in the trunk floor or quarters, any openings will **** exhaust gases right back into the car.

 

Just replaced the Moon breathers on my coupe's valve covers with a proper PCV set up........was getting tired of the smell. Much better now!

 

Gettin the exaust dont really isnt that expensive, considering the discomfort and the alternative.
The parts are reasonable and a friend with a welder is just a 12 pack and a couple of steaks away.

 

Thanks. I bought gl***packs and chrome tips for a 2" pipe setup and when I saw what was under there, I figured all of the pipe behind the exhaust manifolds has to be redone with 2" pipes. I wonder if that would fix it. I will also look into the PCV suggestions.

I notice it does smell a lot like fuel if I leave my key in the ignition and turned on for a while before starting it. When I haven't driven it for a week, I have to turn the key on and let the compressor run for 5-10 minutes. If I try to start the car right away when the compressor is running, it blows a fuse. I'm not sure if this is a big clue or just normal.

Every time I solve one problem I find another. I guess this is a great learning experience for a beginner getting into this hobby. All the work was already done on the car by someone else. Most of it done in the previous owner's house garage.

 

I had a 53 buick with the same problem but as some one said before i think it was comeing from the draft tube and blow by. HEY POST A PICTURE! Thanks.Bruce.