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Technical Backing plate finish?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Runnin shine, Aug 12, 2014.

  1. This is interesting to read because i'll likely apply this type of thinking when i come around to putting my roadster back together for the last time.

    I have a question though, were Ford and Mercury both black? Because i have a '39 Mercury trans that is a dull red.. and as far as i'm aware its never been painted. It came out of an original car. Then i also ended up with a '48 Mercury rear end, and the backing plates are a similar red. Even inside the backing plates, is red.

    @Bruce Lancaster do you know anything regarding Mercury paint colours?
     
  2. Heres some pictures of the Mercury stuff. Someone painted the rear end gold at some stage, but its all flaking off with the red left underneath. As you can see, inside the drums the parts are all red..

    [​IMG]
    And one of the trans.. also a similar red..

    [​IMG]
     
  3. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    On hot rods? Chrome...:D
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
  4. I used the same on my whole suspension. I think it's very close as well. Looks great for sure.
     
  5. I use Tremclad gloss black and thin it with mineral spirits. It drys to a nice sheen but not to glossy. It's also very tough.


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  6. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,501

    Muttley
    Member

    I always use Rustoleum satin black on suspension stuff.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,398

    ronzmtrwrx
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    image.jpg Not a backing plate, but an NOS 39 or 40 front crossmember. As has been stated, replacement parts may have had lesser quality paint than when it came off the line. I don't know. RO
     
  8. WillyKJr
    Joined: Sep 5, 2009
    Posts: 152

    WillyKJr
    Member
    from Blackstone

    I would suggest that the actual sheen is less important than being consistent with it throughout the project. Remember also that the higher the gloss the more sins show loudly. So unless you ate willing to fix every dent and pit I would recommend a satin to semi approach. Any good chassis black will look go on well, last good and look correct. Just be clean and consistent and purists and HAMBers wiil dig it.

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  9. WillyKJr
    Joined: Sep 5, 2009
    Posts: 152

    WillyKJr
    Member
    from Blackstone


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  10. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    On the Merc colors...engine and trans were built and delivered to assembly plants as a unit, and should have matched as they came out of the Rouge engine plant. In 1939 and 1940, at least, Merc engines and trans were the same mossy green as Ford, with only a stamped 99 on engine and the 99 serial on trans to distinguish 239 from 221. Some time after, I think 1941, Mercs started getting new blue paint, probably because of assembly line screw ups...the 99 stamp was not exactly conspicuous! 221's stayed green, and after the war all the engines were 239 and all were blue '46-8. After '48, Ford went nuts and there were a bunch of different colors for various applications '49-53.
    According to the books, all the castings were painted after machining and before assembly into engines, so gaskets, cad plated nuts, and such were clean. Engine tin like pan and filter were black. Castings abaft of trans were black. Note the "chassis touchup" stage I mentioned, that probably originally got a lot of black hosed over fasteners and stuff in the chassis.
    Red would probably be normal for anything that fell into the hands of rodders, hoodlums, and other sociopaths. We all know red stuff is faster.
     
  11. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    VHT semi-gloss roll cage black is pretty tough. I use it a lot.
     
  12. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,383

    Runnin shine
    Member

    That's the stuff I used George. I've used it on my dirt bikes before with decent luck. I had an idea of hand rubbing it to give a heavily washed or waxed appearance like I do on my 50s relic-ed guitars I've built.


    "Listen Mr... It ain't broke if I can't fix it"
     

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