Hot Rods 1947 Ford Truck Questions

gJohn, Decide what YOU want to do with the truck. Meaning how do you see yourself using it once it's up and running. That will greatly help you decide which options make the most sense for you and you alone. For me an old truck is a dual purpose vehicle - 1/2 Hot Rod and 1/2 Utilitarian vehicle. I still FULLY use mine as a truck - I've towed with it in the mountains and hauled everything in it from lumber to fence to concrete. Every upgrade I've made was to make mine USER friendly and SAFER to drive. I met this old timer once (at the dragstrip of all places) who thought it was a "Total Shame" my truck no longer had the flatty motor in it. He offered to GIVE ME the correct flathead so long as I promised to put it in. I thanked him, but declined. Nice Guy.
For me the thing is, IF you make it user friendly then you are MORE likely to enjoy it and therefore more likely to drive the wheels off it.
As a suggestion for you - you might spend a day to fire up the old flatty and hear it run - if it purrs like a kitten it might be worth finding that trans. If not maybe it's time to cut bait. YMMV

BTW - there were two configurations on these trucks - one for a V8 and one for a sraight 6 - the V8 had the radiator closer to the firewall - the 6 pushed the radiator out further. Look on your front cross member - you'll see 2 sets of holes for mounting the radiator. I don't know how long a 302 is, but I'm sure it'll fit one way or another if that's your decision. A friend of mine has a 460 in his - I imagine that's longer than a 302, but again I'm not positive. In any event it's worth noting that to gain a couple inches is extremely easy on these trucks.

 

The more I read, I'm leaning to the 302 but I'm still not 100% sure.

Thanks for all the insight. Keep it coming!

 

Greetings fellow ford owner! I swaped a 302 and c4 into mine and did not need to cut the firewall, there are two sets of radiator support bolt holes in the frame, I used the front set (originally for a strait six) and shortened the "cowl" section that the hood latches to....I've also got fairly large tires and stock non power steering....no problem!....if you need any pictures or info let me know.....


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Hey guys, whether your running PS or Manual steering do yourself a favor and CHECK the frame for cracks where the box bolts up to the frame - especially the lower tab that hangs down off the frame. Mine was cracked and I've talked with others that had similar issues. My guestimation is that not only age but the addition of new (better) tires adds more load to the ch***is. I noticed that the STOCK box had a TON of flex on the ch***is. I converted mine to THRU BOLTS - which I recommend regardless of your box.

 

Here IMHO is some engine options for you.

Ford 59A or 8RA-8BA-Mercury 255 Flathead V8s... with their choices of transmissions. Should bolt in with the right parts.

Ford 7HA Flathead 6 cylinders... as said these were an option for these trucks so they should bolt in with the right parts. You may be able to find these from time to time as most hot rodders will pull these out in favor of a V8. Ironically they were really good runners.

Ford 215-223-262 OHV sixes 1952-1964... These are very good little engines and may fit the engine bay very well. They should have close to the same footprint as the 7Ha flat 6. Mounting will pose a challenge, doable but challenging. There's no automatics that will bolt up easily except for the Fordomatics and the 50s cast iron Cruisomatics. So it's easier to go manual. Going manual will pose a problem with clutch linkage systems. Again very doable but with a lot of research and planning.

Ford Y Block 239-272-282-312 1954-1964...These are very good and legendary engines. They have some width and it may pose some firewall problems, maybe not. All kinds of exhausts are available. Like the the 50s OHV Ford sixes mounting and transmission choice can be a problem. Again doable but problematic.
One final thought on these two OHV engine families, In trucks they mounted from the front and the bellhousing. IMHO if these are used with a front engine mount and rear transmission mount, some type of support needs to be in the middle like an engine plate that bolts to the frame.

Engines with aftermarket mounting systems ...

Small Block Chevrolet 265-283-327-350-302-307-400-305-260 1955-late 1990s...A very good and well proven engine that has an honored pedigree in hot rodding. This engine has some width and the distributor is in the rear so that may pose some clearance problems with the firewall. Universal engine mounts are available. A wide variety of automatics can be bolted to it. A wide variety of speed parts are available with many dating to the 1950s. Due to width it may have some exhaust clearance problems with the steering gear but the installation is very doable.
There is also the old Hurst type bellhousing still available new that will bolt to the old flathead style top shift transmission. That way you can use the SBC with the original type 3 speed and under the floor clutch linkage.

FE Ford Big Block 332-352-352HP-390-390HP-406-410-427-427SOHC-428-428CJ-360...Great engines with a great exhaust note but they do love the gas. They are wide at least on top and are heavy engines in stock form. There may be clearance issues with the exhaust and firewall but even these engine are doable with planning fabrication and thought. Limited on automatic transmissions C-6, Cruisomatics and FMXs and there was a bellhousing bolt pattern change around 66 or so. With an aluminum intake, they weigh about the same as a SBC. Engine mount crossmembers are available but they need to be modified to fit a 47.

Early Ford Challenger V8s " 5 bolt Small Blocks" 221-260-289 1962-early 65 These are good engines and have all the advantages of the Small Ford but C-4 and even manual bellhousings can be rare making transmission mounting problematic.

Challenger V8 6 Bolt Small block Ford 289-302/5.0-255(79-80) 1965-2001 While not as pretty as some of the other engine choices the Small Ford is narrow and fits in early engine bays very well. Distributor is at the front so firewall clearance should be good there. May get close to the steering gear with the exhaust but that easily remedied. With low profile "stock" valve covers there may be no clearance issues at all. Many styles of after market mounts are available. Many transmissions are available including the AOD but the C-4 should fit with little to no modification to the truck although a rear trans mount to the crossmember will have to be fabricated. A large selection of speed parts are available. The Old Hurst Bellhousing, 289 to early Ford transmission, can be found used. This will adapt these engines to the 1947 transmission and under the floor clutch.

351Windsor 1969-1996 Often confused with the Challenger Series but it is really it's own family from the Windsor Plant in Canada. Still considered a "small block" it has more of a Y shape vs the Challengers to accommodate the longer stroke. It is slightly wider than the 289s-302s but heads will interchange. Pretty much the same size as a SBC it will share transmissions with the SBF/Challengers.

Ford Big Sixes 240-300/4.9 1965-1996... Very good engines and later EFI models had factory dual exhaust manifolds that will work with the early carb type intakes. These will fit on a FE type crossmember. These use the same transmissions as the 289s-302s-351Ws. You will have some issues with the firewall and fan clearance but it may be worth it as these are very good engines.

Later Chevy sixes 250 292 1962-86 Share transmissions mounts with SBC

Ford Big Block 428-480- Ford 351 Cleavland- Ford Modified 351-400s The Big blocks are good engines but may prove problematic to mount. Cleavands are expensive to build , maybe more the a flathead, the Modifieds have a fan base but IMHO they are oddball pollution era and are problematic.

Chevy Big Block 396-402-454 1965-1990s Share transmissions with SBC may require fabrication to fit.

Chevy 348s-409s Olds J-2s Chrysler Hemis- Wedges- Pontiacs Buicks Hudsons Studebakers Packards ect. ect. Some neat engine choices but will require custom mounts and fabrication.

 

Wow! Great info! Incredible knowledge on this board.

So if I understand correctly, any 302 will not require firewall mods?

If that's the case, would it be a good idea to look for an old f100 or f150 that runs and swap all of that gear into my 47?

 

All I can say out of all the more common V8s the 6bolt 289-302s will be the least problematic in my opinion. The Windsors fit well too. A lot of this depends on how you set up the engine. You can tweak it from one side to the other and back an fourth a little before you finalize the position of the mounts.

A donor vehicle is a good idea as long as you can use most of the parts. Choose carefully and I would prefer a carburetor equipped vehicle. Only thing though, it's never a good idea for the donor vehicle to be nicer and more desirable than the recipient.

 

I also would prefer a carb equipped engine.

What year did they stop using carbs?

 

1987 was the last year for carbs or right around then, I do know for sure 88 was efi. It's best for ypu to do the research as I do not know all the Ps and Qs of the later ignitions and efi stuff. It should be a simple matter of converting an EFI engine to points and carb. But...

Now there may be some years that Ford experimented with crank activated ignition (pre cursor to the Computer 4.7 type of ignition.) Then there is the Dura-Spark ignition systems that date to the 70s that honestly I can't tell you whats good or whats bad. I prefer points.

Lastly there is the EAOD which was a computer controlled trans mission. I'm not sure exactly when these came out, sometime in the late 80s early 90s.
So you'll need to do your research on what's easy to use,what's not.

 

I sent you a message.

 

I have a few more questions:

I have pretty much decided that I am going to get a 90's mustang and take everything I will need out of it and swap it into the truck.

Will I need a new steering column? I see that there is a floor starter on my truck, will I still be able to use that? Not quite sure how that will all match up.

Is it pretty simple to swap the power steering gear into the truck? Or should I just stick with manual?

Also, is there any way to switch the AC over to the truck? Not a necessity, but I live in Texas and it'd make the truck a lot more enjoyable for 9 months of the year, haha. It'll already be pretty heavily modified, so I figure if its possible it might be worth a shot.

The more I try to plan this out, the more questions I have.

 

Ford Explorers from 96-01 make great donors for swaps. They have shorter water pumps and come with GT-40 heads. A cam and valve spring swap and you'll have a healthy small block.

 

What cam and valve springs would I swap to?

Will I need to do that with the stang engine too?

 

You don't have to swap the cam if you don't want, it's all in your performance goals and choice would depend on carb and intake choices too. I mentioned this because I bought a complete 90k mile Explorer/Mountaineer engine with front dress and fuel injection for $410 from an LKQ yard. Most Mustangs you would buy for a donor will have been pretty beat on and Mustang parts command a premium, but the Explorers have better heads. I swapped a stock Mustang HO cam in mine, with aftermarket springs.

 

Oh I gotcha.

So is the mustang cam more desirable than the explorer one if all I want to do is use this thing as a cruise around town/fun truck?

 

Also, would the explorer rear end be any more/less desirable than the mustang?

 

If you're just cruising, the Explorer cam is fine. It's just a truck cam. The Mustang rear would have to have a five lug conversion and the brackets removed and perches added. The Explorer axle is five lug, has disc brakes and is probably closer to the right width.

 

Hmm. I don't mind welding some new perches, etc.

Sounds like the explorer might be the way to go.

Only thing is, I really want a manual ******. Did explorers come with one?

 

No, they were all automatics, but the Mustang transmissions bolt right to them.

 

Confused by the comment about a foot operated starter switch. '36 was the last year Ford had a foot operated starter switch. '37-'51 car and '37-'52 truck has a starter ****on on the dash.

 

Hmm. My truck has a starter ****on on the floor

 

Any chance you could be mistaking the foot rest next to the accelerator pedal for a starter switch. All old Ford trucks with the s**** style gas pedal had a small round foot rest. '36 was the last to have a foot operated starter.

 

Explorer rearends are popular choice, and have 5 lug pattern. Many Mustang are 4 lug. The Explorer 5-lug is 5 x 4.5, not the same as your front pattern 5 x 5.5. If you want the same pattern,. you need a full size truck rearend, like a F-150. You would have better luck finding a F-150 with manual trans than Explorer, although some Explorer's were built with manual trans, but rare.

So just find a F-150 with 302/5-speed and use the rearend as well. That would be the easiest donor.

 

Is the width if the f150 going to be an issue for the rear end, though?

Is there much difference in an f150
302 and a mustang/explorer? I read where the firing order is different. Are they similar performance wise?

 

What if I used the explorer rear end and then upgraded the front axle with this kit:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Disc-...t&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default

Could I use the explorer's booster and cylinder, etc?

 

John, I think you are getting a little ahead of yourself.
Projects snowball, is this one going where you really want it to go? A build can be very simple or get really complicated, heck even simple builds can get complicated.
Think it through.
Here are some things I think you may need to think about.

You have a half ton truck, although pre hypoid that rear axle may be fine especially if you go with a OD 5 speed. I suspect the gear ratio to be around 3.90 maybe a little lower. The rear axle may have already been changed have you confirmed it? A 3.90 is drivable with a standard 3 speed, at least for me.
Full size Ford trucks to 72 I know and likely to 96 will be a good fit and you keep the Model A/Ford truck bolt pattern.

I suggest you take a look at your truck, take measurements and do the same with potential donor vehicles. Pay attention to how all those parts mount and how compatible they will be with your truck.

You have half a truck. Are you going to keep that flatbed, build a wooden 1947 correct flatbed off a period Ford pattern , or find a pickup half ton bed? Later stepside beds can be used with 47 rear fenders. So you might be better off trying to find those body parts first.

 

Thank you once again for your advice. I appreciate it. I am still exploring all options, just getting ideas of general complexity with each one.

Keeping the rear axle is definitely an option, but I want to know all options before making that decision.

The reason I am asking so many questions about swapping the engine and axles,etc is because I am kind of keen on the idea of being able to drive this thing as a daily driver if at all possible. I'd like to be able to get on the highway and stop safely. I may not go that route due to cost and complexity of the project, but I want to completely feel it out.

As far as the bed goes, I'm not sure yet. Some days I like the flatbed and other days I want to put a bed on it. It might depend on cost.

I didn't know that a later model bed could be used. I will look into that. I'll also put in a few calls to some salvage yards.

 

Ford used the same short wheel base stepside/flareside bed from 1951-79. In the early 80s they used a flat top bed with fibergl*** fenders. 48-50 used a bed with the raised panels on the side and rounded stake pockets. The 47 beds were similar if not the same. If you use a later flat sided bed, you will have to fix the notches in the 47 fenders.

Keep a look out, you may be able to find a 47 and before bed with fenders.

There are so many transmission choices with the small block Ford it boggles the mind. It is possible to use your under the floor pedals with a SMB or SBC.

In my truck I use a 302 to the original early Ford top shift with an adapter. With an original or repro 4 speed adapter with the clutch hole bolted to that I can use a later manual transmission.

This is a vintage part that adapts 65 up SBFs to flathead transmission. One must be careful and confirm that it is the 65 up SBF as a early 221-260-289 adapter was made for the 62-65 SBF.

This adapter from speedway bolted to the 1st adapter will allow you to use a Chevy T-5 and the original clutch pedals. There is also one made for 60s Ford Toploders.

As you can see you have a lot of options.

 

I hope someone can help me. My 1947 Ford pickup has such a large turning radius I can't park in most parking spots. It's still stock straight axel with a disk break kit. To tell you the truth I don't feel comfortable driving it. Any ideas how improve the turning radius?

 

@GIShannon51,
@Glshannon51
Welcome to the hamb.
I’d suggest you make a new post on your question. don’t be shy.
It will draw more attention from those who can help.