History History (and Build) of Just Steve's 1932 Ford Three Window

Very cool Tom!

 

Pretty damn hot today, great to bake paint in the sun.!

I got rear prepped cleaned and sprayed the parts with 2k high build primer And 2k high gloss.



Here's the parts painted and back in the garage
.


Karl has his roadster sorted out so we he took it for a quick spin.


Here's a shot from inside. The car works pretty good



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That roadster is Rad! Can we get a feature!?!?!?!?!

 

Tman, I dont have too many pics of the car. It's and old body that I had. Karl fabricated everything. Homebuilt chassis 4" dropped axle front, early Ford rear on a cross spring, , 322, F150*******, 36 Ford dash, Olds gauge panel. A great little car.

 

Eric,
I'm sorry it took me several days to reply. We left SE Mn last Monday. When I didn't get a return call I figured you weren't in and made an adjustment to our travel plan. The remainder of the trip included a broken window on the camper and later a blowout on the camper. It was not the best travel day ever. Over the next several days everything got fixed and cleaned up.
We may be going to Rochester in Oct. If so, I'll call ahead of time to see if it would be ok to stop in then for a look at the coupe.

Dave


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Dave,
Keep in touch for the next visit.....I would like to meet up, and you can check out the 32 in person.

 

Thanks, will do !!
Dave


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The little things are taking forever. This weekend I did manage to get the rear end on the bones and in position. I need to borrow Karl's spring expander to get that in.

I got the nicopp brake and gas line from advance online. One piece was destroyed so I got it replaced. I stared at the chassis for awhile to come up with a routing plan that is safe and maintainable. I'm using a late 60's gm rear hose with an integral T . I need to make a little bracket for the rear wishbone and start plumbing

The king pins are fitted, I clearanced the spindles for the f100 brakes and got them painted as well as the hubs , front drums , and brake hardware. Couldn't tighten everything down as I was missing the felt washer, cup, and shims. They magically appeared about 7:00 tonight.....

Three trips to the farm store to get good grease zerks. First ones were aluminum in the fastener section, and the threads were weak.
Second set were in the ag section made in India and were undersized on the thread taper.

Third try I found a different brand in the auto grease gun section. These were made in China and I could visually tell they had a bigger taper. Go figure...

Getting closer to a roller.....






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Lookin' good man. Great post, great car. Thank you.

 

Great to see the progress --- looking really good!!

 

Thanks guys.....We're having fun now..

 

If my math is correct this is my 42nd weekend working on the 32., and based on that I would estimate 350-500 hours.

I've been bouncing around a little but there is a method to my madness. I am pre-assembling and dry- fitting to make sure I have everything and if not it gives me time to find stuff. Like today I discovered I'm missing the transmission speedo gear guts, and my tailshaft seal is incorrect.

The shift arm was tweaked and bent in two spots. A little time in the hydraulic press and some draw filing and it looks respectable. I may need to put a swan bend it but will wait until the body is on the frame.

Today I inspected the transmission and it looks really nice, so I cleaned it up and painted it. Buick has a tube that mates to the face of the******* and the throw out bearing rides on it. It had a flat spot and needed a little straightening and filing to work good.

The pilot bushing is a trans adapt part. By my measurements I may need to machine the face .100". I need to take a few more measurements

Any idea where to find the radial seal on the shaft that is shown here?


Here's an overall pic


Here's a pic of the face. The small bearing is a ball bearing for a pilot should I choose to use it. I would need to machine a steel retainer for it.



Another overall



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very nice

 

From you Cody that is quite a compliment. I'm a hack compared to the work and level of detail you put into a car.

 

Really inspiring stuff!!! I love when people get crazy detailed with their builds. It pushes us all!

 

Part of it is I like the look of stuff that has been taken apart and put back together nicely....but in a OEM style of sorts......Must be from looking at early Hot Rod mags and show car coverage, and cutaways....., now thats a career I would enjoy..!

 

QUOTE:Today I inspected the transmission and it looks really nice, so I cleaned it up and painted it. Buick has a tube that mates to the face of the******* and the throw out bearing rides on it. It had a flat spot and needed a little straightening and filing to work good.

Any idea where to find the radial seal on the shaft that is shown here? QUOTE

Eric, you have an unusual mix of parts on that converted Roadmaster trans; First thing to say is that the original 37-38 Buick input shaft as well as the later Buick Selector type input shafts, are a bit shorter than an Olds Selector input shaft. Olds and Cad powered hotrods need the longer Olds shaft, but not with a Buick motor.

The later input shaft from the Selector style trans, would have a machined spiral "thread"to keep oil from coming out the front TOB guide tube... What your trans has, is an original 37-38 input shaft which has a deep groove machined for a cork? (I think) seal. That is what shows in your pic, a bit chewed up.

The reason I am responding to your thread, is that if you find a new seal material to fit that groove, you really need to make sure that the seal OD will work with whatever TOB guide tube ID you have. I don't have a newer BUICK Selector short input shaft to swap out, nor do I know of any leads. Don't fret, but that 37-38 deep grooved input technically does make a weak link in the driveline, but I don't know if it is worth worrying about.

Lastly, I think you may have a Pontiac? tail housing. (Without looking at my Olds housings to compare) That could be why your outut seal is wrong, but I'm not sure. I've never used Pontiac pieces, due to scarcity in my area.

I'll get back if I can find some of what you need, via PM

 

Your right. I did a little research and found that the undercut accepts a cork seal, and it must just ride on the ID of the TOB guide tube. I'm not too worried about the undercut as I probably wont be that hard on the car. Since it is Buick to Buick I suppose it made sense to stick with the Buick input versus Pontiac or Olds.
Again based on a little searching last night it must be a Pontiac tailshaft which would be 1956 and 1957 only, that will narrow down the list of part that might mate ( like speedometer gear stuff!) and avialability.
Thanks for chiming in !

 

Looking great...

 

Thanks, we'll need some new pics on yours.

 

No pics tonight but I will post some up this weekend. The gas tank is in, senders, fuel line. Had to swap my backing plates from side side on the front (rookie mistake). Waiting on F1 brake drums. I found the oring for the front transmission shaft seal, but I still have not located a speedometer drive gear for a 56 OLDs manual*******.
I have found 6 "baldy baby moon" hub caps. I'll get some pictures posted. I think these will give the car the period look I am looking for.

Tuesday night I had a conversation with the owner of the car in the late 50's . He's doing well, had very few details to share. I am working on getting several of the Rhythm Rod Members down to check the car out. More to come on that

 

Your doing a wonderful job with the car, well done.

 

Lookin good, Eric. Can't wait to see the "first drive" video.

 

Just found this thread, really cool story. Great job finishing it up! Loving the detail.
I remember driving by that farm all the time when we drove back north from my Aunt and Uncle's house. Always thought it was cool to see the farm in the middle of the cities. Never would've imagined the chicken coop actually was a "coupe coop"!

 

Russell thanks for checking out the thread. It's cool that you know where the car sat


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Ok. A few pics. The motor is painted, waiting for a piece of nicopp to finish the fuel lines.

Here's one cap. This is one of a pair that are decent. I have 4 more on the way, that will most likely need plating



Here's the Olds gold Buick. I used Eastwood engine paint with hardener. It's still curing, but looks neat. I need to polish the aluminum parts, just enough to clean them up.




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Well
Can't seem to locate new F1 drums, places seem to be out of stock. If anyone has an extra pair of F100 front hubs shoot me a PM as I may swap out to run F100 stuff.

Here are pics of the 4 additional caps I found. I'm up to 6 now and should be able to get 4 good ones.




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Had a nice tip from Rich B that 1980 Ford Bronco and F150 rear drums work on F1 hubs. ( it looks like back to 1975). I bought a pair from NAPA this am and did a test fit. They fit great on the hub ID and the offset is right. 1/2 price of F1 drums and readily available. Thanks again Rich


Finished some fuel line


Still looking for an olds manual*******. Struck out but had a nice walk in a old yard with plenty of cool stuff left




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What yard is that??? I could use those F-100 fenders!

 

That COE looks to be savable. Nice progress.