Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

Hot Damn!!! Consider this train back on track!!!!I think I have that one in an early copy of Car Craft, but it is only featured with basically a rear three quarters view. NICE!!!

 

This is my biggest worry with this stuff. I want to do a little more research on filters. If I can feel comfortable that a filter on the outlet side of my squirrel cage is actually catching all the nasty, I would probably be ok with it. But I'm not entirely sure thats realistic.

 

Yea, that thing kicks ass!

 

I agree Chip, Fred and FG, that T is a real nice historic piece of hot rodding history with it's perfect stance, multi-carb SBC and the right tyres. I was draw to the exhaust too, I have wondered about why one doesn't see more T's with the full length side pipes with a cut off for mufflers and rear exit pipes out the back. I have debated with myself on whether I should purchase or make a set of " limefire " type headers to be able to run mufflers and rear exit pipes under the my car but I do like the side pipe look on my car also and I also wonder if by changing from the side pipes,it could make the car look off balanced visually.

 

Before I started driving mine, I was concerned about how loud it would be for daily use. One of the good things about Phoenix though, is that in some respects it really is still the wild, wild west. Our vehicle equipment laws are pretty lax by the rest of the country's standards.

That said, I originally though very hard about bringing a 2" 90 degree under the body and back to a pair of small glass packs, and out under the rear axle. After I got the car up and running though, I don't find it to be too loud in any way shape or form with just the drilled diffusers in the ends of the headers. Again, that is in context to my surroundings. My neighbor's blown 500 Cad powered '50 Chevy gasser is louder than my car by far, and the other neighbor's year old Harley still would push the DB meter higher than my car.

 

A little refresher. You've come a LOOOONG WAY BABY!

 

Just dug up what I said waaay back on pg 6 of this deal, and what I have always had in mind for my own t-bucket, since oh, about 1968...I was picturing headers like on the car above, but as out-lined below, flat white, 4 bolt collector flanges, and drops to glasspacks under the car.

"For headers, I would take what you have there, sandblast them, extend the collectors back to the middle of the door, weld a 4 bolt collector flange on, and a drop to a pair of short glass packs under the bed, and paint them white. CHEAP, and would pass for mid sixties era.
"

 

You know it isn't enough, although it would help, otherwise that is all you would need to use to supply air for the painter to breathe, right?

 

I'm ok with the air breather, my big concern is pumping this shit out of my makeshift spraybooth for my kid (or the nieghbours kids for that matter) to come in contact with. I really doubt I'm going to be able to come up with a home-brewed set-up that I will be comfortable with. Dont get me wrong, I'm not naive about the toxicity of acrylic lacquer, but with lacquer, its only the atomized paint you really have to worry about. I can deal with that.

 

That was my point, a filter on the exhaust isn't going to protect anyone in the near vicinity. We just don't know how far away from the point of fumes exhausting it reaches out to before it is safe, at least I don't know.

 

Anybody besides me get the T Bucket Plans posts on Facebook? They posted a T with a bikini model yesterday, and all I can say is..........Woof! Talk about everything wrong with a T! I'm not going to post the pic, cause I'd probably be banned from the site!
Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Hey, Larry & FG;
My concern w/the paint fumes is the swirling & coming back to bite me in the, uhm, face. I live in a rather treed area, so the wind swirls, a lot. & even though the fumes could dissipate quickly, (although neighbors are a ways away) I still don't want to cause anyone else trouble. Although if the fumes would be pretty much done w/in ~ 150' or so, that would be doable. I've thought about forcing the fumes through water in a 55 gal drum - but then what to do w/that crap... . & I *ain't* pouring it in the ground or in the creek. Regulations be damned, I'm not poisoning the area I live in/on. I think I might be over-thinking this.

Chip;
I figured as much on the color of the Lambo paint. I do like the tone & shade, but don't suppose it can be had/gotten w/o the pearl & flake. Still... .

Marcus...

 

Not saying that its suitable for your T, but GM has a pretty bitchin modern pearl orange, cant remember the name off the top of my head, I'll try to find it later...

 

Inferno Orange, I'll just post a link here, strictly for educational purposes. The photo doesnt really show it well, its got a lot of gold pearl in it.

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorco...ro&sname=Inferno Orange&name=camaro2012917967

 

George,

Since I also suffer from Isocyanate related asthma sensitivity, and I have close to a half dozen cars to paint soon, I looked into it as well. This is from Part 6 of the Isocynate Emissions Toolbox
( http://www.isopa.org/toolbox/frame-part-6.htm ) and it states "

Abatement processes for emission gases

Many polyurethane producing plant operations have functioned within the local regulations governing emission releases for years without the need to have any emission gas abatement system fitted. However, in some geographical areas where air quality regulations are in place, the unabated effluent gases exceed permitted limits, and it is necessary to consider the need for abatements.

Until recently regulations covered only the isocyanates in emissions. Initially water-based abatement units were developed; the most effective types being those in which contact between the effluent gases and the water medium was optimized. Up to 95% reduction in isocyanate concentration has been demonstrated. Sometimes alkaline or acidified waters have been preferred to plain water.

More recently, carbon bed scrubbers have been developed, and the isocyanate concentration after passage through the scrubber is normally too low to measure (>99.99% absorption has been claimed). At present, reliable carbon bed scrubbers have comprised a 1 to 3 ft (0.3 to 1m) thick bed or concentric cylinder design, typically having a charge of around 12 tonnes of carbon for an air throughput in the 30,000 – 70,000 ft3/min (50,000 – 130,000 m3/h) range, and a realistic 5 year life for a charge of carbon can be expected."

and a quick Google search found Carbon Filter material is readily available. The pre-made filters seem rather expensive, but Amazon has bulk (16"x48") filter material available for $5.75 a sheet
( http://www.amazon.com/Cut-Fit-Carbo..._sbs_hg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ACY4MM61RPQ1QWPJS42 ). So taking this into account, I would think you could build a reasonably inexpensive 2x2 frame at each end of your portable carport, line the intake end with plastic to seal it and build a bow around the Squirrel Fan (Not sure what your fans output is, but I bet its signifcantly less than 30,000-70,000 CFM, so the thinner carbon pad should work, maybe double the thickness (it doesn't give a thickness dimension, but it looks aabout the sane as Furnance filter material, which is usually 1/2" to 1" thick) with standard furnace type filters to prefilter air going into the booth, and a pair of door frames at the other end that are covered with screen or chicken wire, and then sandwich the Carbon filter material between the wire and another set of furnace filters. If you really wanted to overkill it, you could even add another layer of the bulk Evaporative cooler pad material, and run water through it (I'm thinking a 1/2" PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a row of 1/8" holes drilled through it on one side) as a scrubber. I'm not sure if the water would actually be considered hazardous afterwards (A lot of the material out there seems to contradict itself on this point). I wouldn't go dump it in a creek, but supposedly the Isocynates aren't hazardous once their out of their vaporous form?

 

BF: A most helpful post! I have pondered just how long and in what form the fume/paint/overspray took.

 

Sure 'nuff has!!! Lots more to come, too. Just gotta get un-busy enough to make it happen. It's killing me to have my new front brakes sitting in the shop waiting to go, and no time to make it happen. Soon guys, soon.

 

DAMN STRAIGHT!! Masterful! Great work BF! I would call that definative, or damn close to it. Really good stuff. This should be linked to Larrys thread.

 

Ok, I have been talking a bit about my hunt for 9 fins on here. It actually goes a lot deeper than that. About 4 yrs ago, I stumbled over an early 283 core I had stashed in my dads basement 30 some-odd years ago, and forgotten about. About a year later, I sniped a 270hp 283 intake on ebay for a good price with some pinhole erosion in the bottom of the crossover, an easy fix. Over the last three years, I have hunted up the major parts to more or less visually clone a '57 270hp motor, with the cumulation of that hunt being a set of decent 9 fins.
Whenever you post about dual WCFB's on the HAMB, some guy will always say something to the effect of "well, you gotta have deep pockets". I beg to differ, and here is photographic proof. Everything in this photo, the intake, the '57 tach drive cast iron dual point, the valve covers, the T-10, the whole shitteree, totals less than $900...most of it is stuff the Corvette resto guys turned down, because its not flawless, and all of it can be doctored up to work to perfection on a hot rod. The carbs aren't original Corvette, but by the time I'm finished doctoring them up with re-pop Corvette resto parts, some epoxy, and a little parts swapping, it'll take a NCRS judge to spot them. The distributor has the housing brazed together, but it spins true, and once its cleaned up and painted, no-one (but you guys) will be the wiser. one of the valve covers has a slight divot on the flat area above the letters, but since I'll be painting between the fins, I can fill that with epoxy, and again, no-one will be the wiser. Point is, the stuff is out there, and cheap, if you just hunt long enough, and dont mind expending a little elbow grease.


More than anytime in say the last 15 years, the deals ARE out there, you just gotta dig, do your homework, be patient, and when the right stuff turns up at the right price, be ready to pull the trigger.

 

When you paint this thing, thats when its REALLY gonna come to life!

 

You are soooooooo right, man! People are working harder than ever before to find this stuff, and when they find the "less than perfect" stuff, it usually goes for .10 on the dollar. My own Corvette valve covers are a perfect example. They came from one of the valley's premier "find it, buy it and mark it wayyyyyy up" performance collecters. His shop is so full of rare and one off performance stuff it would make you cry. My set of covers had holes drilled for the breathers that were to be part opf my vision since the beginning. But, because those holes were there, they were all but worthless to your average Corvette guy, even if they were masterfully filled. The net result was they cost me 60.00 rather than the 200.00 that these commonly bring at swaps around here. And again, that was from a "big money" collector/seller type. Keep your eyes open!!

 

And I can third it! I bought a set of Cal Custom finned VW valve covers for the Karmann Ghia that had breather holes drilled in them for $5.00! Couldn't say no at that price.

 

Bingo! My distributor in the pics above was $70, I have seen '57 cast iron bowl tach drive dual points sell in the $500 range. The numbers on mine cross reference as '57 245hp (dual wcfb, hyd cam) Shop around for stuff with minor damage that you can repair, and you might find those exotic dream parts that you lust after, at a price you can afford...

 

What happen to those 1000s of adaptor plates to dual points,for about every car made,I could buy in 50s n 60s,thats how I got dual points

 

Well, I know what happened to ONE of them...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-lasalle-related.149650/page-17#post-10613742

 

The orange I bought for my '45 is from a fleet color for Yellow trucks available in everything from acrylic enamel to Imron to water based paint. ,Just a solid orange with no glitter.

 

looks like Omaha Orange, or damn close to it.

 

That might be the Mac Truck orange I was talking about that my buddy put on his A roadster.

 

When I was at the local coffee shop the other day another bucket drove up. Although I'm not really into '60s style I thought this one was pretty kool. Not too overdone. The guy just bough it for 12 grand. Pretty good deal I thought.

 

The Yellow color is actually called "Swamp Holly Yellow" and is a custom blend based on the color of the flower of the Swamp Holly plant in Florida.

(I worked at the Yellow Freight HQ in Overland Park, KS for several years.)