Art & Inspiration Candy, Lace, Flake, Flames... wanna see WILD custom paint...

Happy, indeed. Looks great.

Is that silver flake under all those candy colors?

 

Most of them are, yes! A few have gold to start and a couple are just colored flake though. Thanks!

Harry K

 

I have attached a picture from the November 1997 issue of Lowrider, shot at a Denver show.
I like the style of paneling with a hard-edge/fog. But does anyone know how the center panel was created? It almost looks like veiling, but I don't think so. Maybe sponge-paint?

 

That might be lace? Kinda hard to tell from the picture though.

 

Sorry for the low-res photo.
Could be lace, I suppose, but the light/dark patter seems too random for that.

 

Here's a few more panels I finished up recently!








Harry K

 

Here is a Mail box I did awhile back...

 

Mail box is:
Candy Cobolt and Oriental Blue cocktail over BMW silver with DX-84 dry flake. Flames are GM white with torch red and kandy Tangerine - Yellow 1- Shot outline, PPG clear on top of it all.

 

Ya'all sure do a lot of beautiful stuff here - Really Beautiful, keep it coming!

 

Can you shoot clear over regular 1 Shot or does it have to special? Always thought the clear would make it lift or soften it somewhat and distort it.

 

I've shot, and have had shot, catalyzed clears over 1-Shot lots of times. The trick is to dust some coats on 1st (2-3-4) then go medium & then heavy. And be sure to allow for proper flash times. Still, that being said, it's always a good idea to do some test panels 1st.

 

Thanks, I know HOK had some urethane stripping paint at one time that was supposed to allow you to clear over it. I was just wondering if you could bury 1 Shot under old fashioned Acrylic Lacquer or must it be catalyzed clear?

 

It's an old painter's trick: You are working late and a lovely lady comes by. You roll her dress down the side to create that particular pattern. That's why they are so hard to match.

 

I'm betting that lacquer, even if you put a catalyst in the 1-Shot, would lift it. Lacquers, by definition, are a 'hot' paint (it's why they flash off so fast ~ the lacquer thinner used to reduce them). But, if you're looking to go 'old school' on this, why not do it the way we used to do it 'back when' and put your striping on top of your clear coats?

 

My car has been done old school 32 years ago. After all that time of polishing and weathering some of my pinstriping is wearing thin. Just thought if I ever go to freshen it up I would try it under the clear next time. I will have someone go over all my striping at some point regardless. I only have clear on my Flames.

 

Sage has been doing this a long time , he knows what he's talking about . It was the bikers that had to have their striping under the clear , striping on top is what experience stripers normally do .

 

Thanks for the kind words Phil. I should add, I really admire your work. Some truly gorgeous stuff.

I thought of this after my last post...the only time I can recall doing striping under a clear lacquer coat was sometime back in the mid-70's. I striped a set of flames in lacquer. You have to extremely retard (slow down) the lacquer, clean the brush out constantly (seemed like every 3-5 minutes) and use a brush you aren't overly fond of as lacquer thinner will pull the natural oils out of a brush in no time, essentially ruining it. That's probably the reason I only recall doing it once. Once was enough.

 

A tank I did for a client.

 

Painted cars 25 years ago. Never did leafing or pinstripes. Decided to try on my own stuff...I got a long way to go...first lesson is to use the right brushes- retracting make-up brush and a mac 00 for lines. I used what I found at hobby lobby. Now I wanna do everything again ... that's what it's all about !!

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I watched a guy do that type of stuff like 10 or 15 years ago. He used a shop rag that he had dipped in paint and then rolled the rag up, after wringing it out some he would tape the ends of the rag to keep the shape, and then just kinda toss it a the panels letting it just barely touch to deposit the paint in a way that looked a lot like that.

 

Delpala, I think you are right. It looked like sponge painting, so a shop rag would do the trick. There was just enough green color to coordinate with the hard edge/fog line, but let the gold panel shine through.

 

So, essentially, it's 'rag painting' or 'roll rag painting' then.

I've done the same thing with 1-Shot and wadded up plastic bags. What you're doing is using the edges created by the wadding to transfer paint to the surface. I'd be hesitant about using a shop rag simply because of the chance of fiber transference.

But hey...maybe the guy 58 Depala saw was working with what he had on hand.

 

II made a battery box cover to hide the battery in the trunk of my 32 ! Rolled some metal then to the bead roller and did reverse flames

 

Awesome stuff in here guys!! Love it!!


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Painting my son's wagon with HOK abalone 'flake over white base. Later, will add candy red & blue for stars and stripes theme. My first time doing anything like this

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jack_pine I see a run in that first picture. You need to leave a little more flash time between coats or go with thinner coats. Painting flake can be tricky so its good that your starting on small pieces.

One more tip. You should have the panels oriented the way they will be when installed. For example if that was a cover for a kick panel the you have it right but if it was to be installed laying flat then it should be painted flat. you will get a better final effect because the flakes will be oriented the way the eye sees it. Its not a huge difference but it does make a difference when combined with candy's or pearls.

 

Good idea (s). Definitely heavy load of clear on last pass.

I wonder if I could have avoided that run if I had the piece laying flat as you mentioned.

Ran out of clear. Need to add more to bury the 'flake. Do I need to scuff the surface prior to shooting more clear? It's rough and bumpy now.....

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if you can still feel the flakes "poking" out of the clear then yes bury it some more. Be carefull and use only 400 grit to scuff the the stuff already on there but if you cut too deep and start actually cutting the flakes you might want to throw one more coat of the clear with just a 1/4 rate of the flake that you used in the first coats before you final clear. Depending on the size of the flake (.008?) 3 or 4 coats is usually plenty. It will still feel and look a little orangepeely so I usually cut it with 400 then 800 before I spray any Candys or Pearls.

 

this is my moms 56 Heinkel scooter i just finished. Its Ermine white with blue pearl and then candy red over silver. I wetsanded with 400 before i final cleared. On both i put 2 coats of clear on first then 400 grit then 3 coats of clear then cut and buff.

 

WOW...that's a nice finish!! ^^^

I have a hard tyme being patient when I spay stuff, so I pretty much stick to brush work!!