Projects Truck into a coupe- My next pet project

Push the metal towards the corners, don't help much but it helps just enough.

Second pass


Almost a 1/4 window


This took a while !
Then I fit the glass seating surface to the back side.
I'd say within a business card of being flat as glass is ok

 

Once again, I am impressed, don't know why, it seems to happen so often I should be used to it by now.

 

Almost finished. Have to weld a little bit then put that little do hickey return to hold the rubber seal. Which BTW the last guy made out of some kind of flashing - I have it still some place
Momma said dinner was ready so that's that.

Maybe I'll just quarantine myself here so I can get some shit done

 

Thank you ,
Eventually you'll become jaded, enjoy yourself and find pleasures in the simple things before that happens

 

Very impressive work!

 

That's cool

 

Thanks guys!

Here's what's there now



The new




Here you can see the amount of change.


Other side done also same same x2

Next I'll be adding the beads and fitting them into the car.

 

W o W. Like an Etch-A-Sketch.....you just keep shaking and erasing, to create something completely yours and new. I'm happy for your car, man.

 

Nope, hasn't happened yet, I am impressed again...love it!

 

It's good to learn a few more metal working tricks. Nice work.

 

Really I'm just practicing for the back window

That also needs to be flat as glass on inside, but with a taper that fits into a compound curved back panel .

 

From post #400

As far as I can see so far, there will be one spot the size a pinky tip that makes no sense at all. Sort of a smallWTF spot. I'll leave it for a conversation starter. Think anyone will notice?

So you remember how I was wondering how this corner would all come together ?
Just like tge bead starts is a good way to end it I think.

(I'll be making a new beaded window curve followdoohickey to go with the new window)

The bead just fades to flat like it starts up front


That clamp is right in the way huh?




Super high tech secret for that bead too.
Put in break and bend 90*. By hand pull the bent flange back down. Then you have to change your mind and gradually and evenly hammer it out to flat on the end.

 

You certainly have a way with words my friend!
Thank you

Thanks Dick, hopefully your expectations continue to be exceeded

 

wow thats really cool.now ive seen how it should be done

 

when you made your window openings did you do it with two seperate hammerforms and weld the two together? I'm looking at the double step you have in there in the finishied product, but it seems the hammerform only formed a single roll. either way looks good, just curious on how you did it.

 

Thanks.

Windows are 3 pieces welded together.
Pics in 484 you can see them
1 hammer form for the first profile flipped for left and right.
1 hammer form for left side tapered curve profile
1 hammer form for right side tapered curve profile
1 hammer form for glass seating surface flipped for left and right.

I think you could probably get the first two combined but there's so much stretch in the second one it might not make it around and down into the corners.

 

31, how about posting a shot of all the hammer forms together? I really enjoy watching fine craftsmanship in action.


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crystal clear, thanks!

 

Fine craftsmanship in action - I like that!

Do you know of Bezalel and Ahoiliab ?
I started asking God for help as such as these men and look what happened.

Sure !

 

Awesome job on the quarter windows, what gauge steel did you use? You do realize, after all the time invested fixing this hackery, your pride probably won't let you not suicide the doors and kick the front edges out like the real deal.

 

Apropos.


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Thankyou !

Lol! I can't see that happening but the fat lady isn't ready yet either.

I have a 34 5window, stock height roof but way over channeled, I don't need another. This one has cleaner lines in most places any way. Now I did see some goofy hinges that let the leading edge of the door get kicked forward & Ill be getting to the drivers door skin right after the roof. Ill see what's inside there soon.

I used just Regular old run of the mill 18ga CR.

 

Learned a huge amount here, caveat emptor, metal skills, persistance, so thank you!

 

Now this looks super to me, I loved the look of that color when you posted the pics of the Chevy fender you painted.

 

This is one great looking 5 window..., er 6 window coupe. You have incredible fabrication skills and determination. Even more, you have the vision it takes to fit all the parts together successfully. No franken-rod here!
I've studied the side view pictures carefully. I think the quarter window proportions are spot on. The only change I would consider, is with the upper rear corner of the door. I would attempt to reduce the metal mass in this area by reducing the corner radius of the door and window opening slightly. (JMO) Would like to see chrome valve covers added to the colored side views. Looking forward to see this one to finish!

 

Whoa! Thank you very much fellas!
Not quite sure what to say yet but thank you.

Here's what Dick Stevens is talking about from the photoshop thread.

here's the pics that moose rendered from. It's black as coal and one of the cleanest purest blacks that I've seen until very bright light or the sun hits it

Moving positions to also moved the red highlights.

This is what he came up with



The red highlights will move as the car moves or you were to walk around the car.

 

Spectacular!

 

Thanks man! It's never too late, ask me how I know
Haven't seen a frysler update in a while, what's up?

Thanks Dave ! You do know that I've gotten much inspiration from your threads and posts. All that crazy stuff you pull off

You're very welcome.
Hopefully you also learned not pay good money for junk

I'm looking forward to the finish also!
Thanks for the kind words, maybe if I ask real nice on the photoshop thread I can get them to tint the windows and add some chrome

Thank you George. Great way to end the page.

 

I got the windows cut in and fitted used some tabs and rivets to hold it there.
Working on the top bead. All starts with a line right?



Start with a straight piece -


Curve it so it fits the line - I just used the shrinker as I didn't want to thin the edges.
Then I needed to make on identical. I riveted them on one end and used the first one as a pattern for the second. That really helped speed the second one up.


Next is to tip the flange on them.
Too bad I screwed it up a and now need to make these 2 pieces again
That's another 4700 stomps in the shrinker.
The flange needs to transition from a 130* bend to a 1/2 round profile. That sounds difficult and is even a bit harder than it sounds.