Projects Getting that Exhaust Sound Just Right

Putting a bend in the pipe to bring the tips up will look really funky. A good muffler shop will cut the pipe back where it comes down from passing over the rear axle and adjust the height there. The length can then be adjusted anywhere along the span between the bend and the tips by just sectioning an inch or two from the pipe.

Be sure the rear hangers have some "give" in them so that the pipes will ride up inside the bumper and then return to the normal height without damage to the hangers or the tips when the pipes drag on a steep driveway. This way you'll scratch the bottom of the tips but nothing will get bent or crushed.

Also... PLEEEEZE put some brake fluid in your master cylinder! It's 'way low and has probably already sucked some air into the system...which may explain why it don't stop so good. AND...service your front wheel bearings and then install some dust caps! Sheesh! Whoever owned that car before you didn't take care of it at all!

Good luck! You've got a neat car and a great start as a real custom enthusiast.

 

Sure they did, it even looks like they greased the bleeder.
The muffler shop ran the pipes below the rear end not over.

 

Thanks, the photos were taken while I was making some new hard line replacement and replacing the shredded hose and in the process of bleeding so the M/C is much more full than that now but thanks for looking out for me.

The frame member forward of the bumper won't allow the pipes to run any higher. I saw Mike Ness' car has a bend just after the frame member like I'm suggesting.

 

Guy before me had the bleeders all rounded off! I had to use a vice grip.. I did put anti-seize carefully on the threads

 

The muffler shop ran the pipes under the rear end. Because I have airbags, I'm guessing they decided that was the better route to take? I haven't tested how high the rear bags can go before the pipes hit the rear end.

 

Did you give the exhaust shop specific instructions, or did the exhaust guy take it upon himself, as to how to route your exhaust?

 

Oh, boy, I didn't see that part. Hard to tell why they did it that way without being under the car. I see what you mean about the rear frame crossmember making it difficult to raise the tips to keep them from being smooshed. C-notching the crossmember might have been an alternative, but it's probably too late for that this time around. Moving the tips forward inside the bumper edge - the more the better - will still help keep them from damage, however. Good luck.

 

I didn't give enough specific instructions. Someone told me not to tell exhaust shops every single specific and to give overall instuctions but let the do their thing. That someone is a fellow Hamb'er

 

Thanks that makes sense.

 

Just had the pipes redone in the rear to sit closer to the bumper.. Looks great and I can clear the driveway easier. I will post photos soon.

Below is the sound I really like but I'm guessing my glasspacks are too far back and too long (mine are 22")? When they break in more with time I don't think I'll get that type of rapping effect will I? Also the 283 Engine is probably playing into the rapping effect?

 

About your brakes - I have the stock Mustang II 9" rotors and my car stops like a new car. (I know this because our other two cars are literally new cars.) In fact my pedal is more firm than on a 2014 Chrysler 300. You should not have to get used to stopping that car!
I see that you do not have power brakes and that surely does make a difference, but if you work out the master cylinder/proportioning valve/calipers matching issue (i.e. make sure your master cylinder is correct for disc brake calipers and is properly proportioned) it should still stop well, just requiring more pedal pressure than a power-brake car. Whatever you end up doing, make sure your master cylinder is for front disc brakes because a drum brake master cylinder will stop the car but will never be quite right for the calipers.

Just FYI, there are kits out there to mount a power brake booster and master cylinder in the stock location AND there are kits to mount a power brake booster and master cylinder on the firewall. Neither one requires much special skill or fabrication. Brakes are important - it's kind of hard to enjoy a car that feels scary to drive. (I know, I had one once!)

 

Oh thanks that is some really good advice. I think I may fly my Dad down for a couple weeks to have him help me with some things like this. I have gotten used to the pedal and stopping that car but I will look into the things you mentioned. Thanks again.

 

Here is a video clip of me driving it yesterday. The exhaust chrome tips are now tucked up higher closer to the bumper (I love the way they look now too!) It was shot with an iphone and sounds pretty accurate when I put headphones on.

The exhaust doesn't rap even when I step on it. Does anyone here still think it sounds like a farm tractor after the plugs/wires and new exhaust?

 

It does sound a bunch better but it doesn't seem to be running right yet. Try a tune up timing and carb adjustment.


If that's you stepping on it, the Rpms just aren't there and they seem labored as they try to climb. Like you are starting off in 3rd gear. Does it feel like that while driving it? No rpm = no rap out of the glass packs.

Incidentally a RV cam would be exactly opposite of that video, it would pull like crazy on the low end and be labored in the upper RPM range.

 

Thanks. I'm either going to have my Dad fly down and help me with timing, carb, etc and other miscellaneous things or ask someone to help me.

It's probably the way I drive the car mostly but it does seem a little labored at the low end. In that video I wasn't stepping on it too hard and in general I don't hit the pedal hard while driving more out of being nervous and not fully comfortable yet driving that car. In another video (I will upload tonight when I get it off my girlfriend's phone) I was stepping on it a little harder passing by. I have tried getting rap with high RPM but didn't get much and I started hearing a whistling noise from the water pump bearing so I'm going to have to wait to replace it before trying that again.

 

That is the best-looking '53/'54 Chevy 4 door I ever saw.
These are all just details - your car already runs and drives and looks damn good. Don't freak out too much, just keep plugging away one thing at a time until you get it all straightened out. I've been driving mine for 10 years now and there are still details I have yet to correct.

 

Oh thanks so much! I'm going to keep at it until all the issues are worked out. I definitely am grateful for all the advice especially the brake related stuff.

 

As already stated, you have a nice looking, nice sounding, nice running '53.
If this is your FIRST ole car, you may be the victim of "overthinking".
"Overthinking" occurs when you think you have a concern ....... and by the time you mash it through your mind 1,000 times, you now CERTAINLY have a problem.
Exhaust sounds are so dependent upon other issues, like cubic inches, camshaft, cylinder heads, headers or manifolds, muffler types and location, idle speed, carb choices ..... the list goes on.
Now, at 72 years old, I have a request for you. We have seen the car several times, now it's time to see the girlfriend who does the videos for you.
Just can't "overthink' some things. LOL

 

Nice car, for certain. Nice girlfriend.
Take your girl, take your car and go cruisin' .... work on the NEVER ENDING list of "to do's" on the car.
Being your first ole car, you need to know this fact.
If your list of "to do's" run out, that means only one thing.
It means you no longer own the car.

 

Thanks. Yeah that makes sense entirely

 

Who's car is this ?

 

I did a hard google image search on Chopped 54 Chevy. I recall it coming from Cole Foster's website and it said it belonged to Mike Ness. I think he's the frontman of the band Social Distortion though I'm not really familiar much with that band's music.

 

Here's another video just to show as I drive by. I wasn't flooring it but I gave it a little more gas and was driving by at higher speed. I think it sounds much better than before.



Here's what it looked like after I waxed it and before I drove it. The iphone resolution kind of sucks and shows the video grainier.

 

That is a very nice chop. Really good flow. Any idea what the rear window is?


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Thanks. I'm not sure but the glass looks kind of flat-ish so I'm not sure how to even find that out.

 

That's a very nice looking car.
It would be worth the effort to get its bones in as nice as shape as it's skin.

 

Thanks, I'm motivated to do this little by little with some patience and hopefully mentoring from others with experience.

 

Other than asking whoever installed it there's probably no way to ever know for certain. Probably something 1949-52 but no idea what. Could be Chevy but I don't think so?
I was just curious. Unless you break it you will never have any reason to need to know.

 

I still stand by my advice. A decent muffler shop has installed literally thousands of systems over the years and they understand your needs, and the compromises that are always required. You wouldn't hobble into an established orthopedic surgeon's office and give him/her instructions on how to set your self-diagnosed broken leg, would you?
A competent exhaust shop will know what they are doing, and will perform their trade well.

 

Yea true, I will ask the previous owner and let you know. The more information I know the better because surely some day that window will need to be replaced if I drive it enough