Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Mounting a T5 question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by nickk, Nov 1, 2014.

  1. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    Alright, I've been searching on here and other places for what I'm looking for but yet to find out what I need, and I don't have a way to post pictures so I'll give the best details I can.

    Heres what I'm working with 239 Y block, with a T5 out of a turbo thunderbird backing it. I'm currently in the process of making my transmission cross member that I want removable and here's my deal. The trans has the one stud coming out of the bottom that's mounted in rubber. If I keep that set up cross member when made will be too close to the ground. What I've been contemplating was taking it (the rubber mounted stud) off and use the 2 threaded holes on the tail shaft case its mounted to for my actual mount to take away around 2 inches, and use other rubber pieces to put between my mount and the two holes on the tail shaft. I'm guessing with up and down movement it'd be fine, I'm more or less concerned with the motor twisting and eventually breaking the tail shaft? This my first Hot Rod build and I'd like to do it right. Anyways just make yall feel better I'm running all this in my 30 Ford Coupe, stock frame, with and 55/6 Ford rear end. Everything's original old stuff minus the trans but the motor and trans was free and free is for me! This trans mount is what I'm working on now so any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. 34Fordtk
    Joined: May 30, 2002
    Posts: 1,690

    34Fordtk
    Member

    Maybe do it like the Ford top shift style trans were with the rubber mounts out to the sides. Make a bracket to bolt to the stock holes and come out to the sides and up some to gain clearance. Then over to the frame with the rubber in between.
     
  3. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    The motor twist has little to do with how the transmission is mounted, twist is controlled by the engine mounts. Is there a reason you are using the turbo coup T5? Think that would be a fairly poor one to use. I can check it out, but I'm almost positive it will have a bad gear combo and the input shaft is odd ball. I will check and update my post.
     
  4. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    34Fordtk, I have been debating this too, seems like it'd also work like the old 3 speed top shifts, but some how was wanting to incorporate my ladder bar mounts to the trans cross member too. And jseery, the 239 and T5 was free and already together and came out of car I've driven and road many miles in and road out great and was free, and the gear in the rear end I'm using is higher then what the previous was in the 54 the motor and trans was in, so it should be fine, and the input shaft shouldn't matter. But I'm seeing what your saying about the twist deal, but wouldn't the trans twist just like the motor?
     
  5. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    Yes the transmission twist just like the motor, but the motor should be allowed to twist over a fraction of an inch, how are you mounting it? I have to admit I'm not really following your transmission mount issue, why not use a normal mount like is used in almost all Hot Rod type of installations? There are a whole lot of issues here, how is the rear end mounted, transverse spring or parallel springs? I attached a photo of the most commonly used motor mounts.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    Motor mounts are rubber biscuits, the rear end has stock model A transverse spring, and the trans mission mount I haven't decided on, with more research I've found out I cant just put rubber between the 2 threaded holes on the tail shaft and the cross member, so that answers my main question, next I just have to design a cross member to keep it as high as possible from the ground, which has been my ultimate concern
     
  7. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    OK, I saw a statement about ladder bars. You understand you can't use ladder bars per say with a transverse spring right? That is why these cars were designed with the center pivot ball both front and rear. Everything has to pivot along the centerline of the car. You can get away with splitting the front wishbones because of the twist in an I-beam axle (doesn't work well with a tube axle). This will not work with a rear axle, it is not going to twist. Might want to draw that out and look at it a little bit. Ladder bars really don't even work with parallel springs without what are call sliders which allow the axle to move around a little. Now some more questions: 1). Why can't you post photos?, this is doing to be difficult without them. You don't have a digital camera or phone with camera capabilities? 2.) Why are you not able to use a normal transmission mount (see the photo I posted above)? I have never seen a installation where that will not work. 3.) How in the world do you think you are going to get much engine movement with biscuit motor mounts? I would think 1/4 inch or so at most. And the transmission has to be mounted on something flexible, just like the engine does for lots of reasons. The oil pan is normally the low point, so as long as you stay around that level you should be fine.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  8. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 9,163

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    This is the mount you need to use a typical Ford mustang of around 87' vintage but goes way back into the 60's anything with a 4spd..not a problem with tail housing mounting..
     
  9. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,456

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I may be misunderstanding, but this sounds to me like you're thinking about bolting the trans to the crossmember with just some rubber pad between the crossmember and the tailshaft. If you tighten the bolts at all, those bolts will try to limit rotation of the engine/transmission assembly, and your concern about breaking the tailshaft housing is valid. There needs to be an allowance for some rotation of the assembly at both the motor mounts and the transmission mount.
     
  10. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    jseery, I actually don't have a digital camera or a phone with a camera that'll make a clear photo but I did have a friend come over with a smart phone and snapped some pictures, about to upload them. and Ebbsspeed, and yeah that what I was talking about doing but shortly realized that wouldn't work. Pictures soon!
     
  11. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    or not, im having some issues downloading
     
  12. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    car4.jpg car2.jpg car5.jpg car1.jpg car1.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    • car4.jpg
      car4.jpg
      File size:
      914.5 KB
      Views:
      169
  13. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

  14. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    That stud in the rubber mount is what I was trying to change so my cross member wouldn't be so close to the ground
     
  15. 61falcon
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 772

    61falcon
    Member

    i don't have any pictures and the car is parked for the winter but I will try and explain what I did for my T5. My trans cross member is located behind my trans mount. I used a Mustang mount and made a Z plate going to the cross member from the bottom of the mount up to the cross member. it got the cross member up away from the ground. My cross member passes under the tail shaft just behind the speed sensor. The Z plate is welded to the cross member and plated on the sides for strength. I drag race my car and this set up is plenty strong as its been there for years with out any failures of the mount or trans.
     
  16. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,476

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Is that a shoebox rear axle?
     
  17. Dog_Patch
    Joined: Nov 12, 2007
    Posts: 5,133

    Dog_Patch
    Member

    Here is a pic from one of Bass' builds. You could Z this more and use the biscuits like this.
    354102544.jpg
     
  18. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    Yeah that does make since, I see what you have going on!
     
  19. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    Yup it came out of a 56/6 Ford, from what Ive found out while looking up seals and parts for it its called a spicer 41
     
  20. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    I wouldn't attempt to use the transmission mount you posted in the photo (photos help a lot!!). If you use one like I posted (or something similar) the bolts for the mount come up from the bottom and all that is below the crossmember is the bolt head. I attached some examples of T5 mounts (one is using a mount like you have!)
     

    Attached Files:

  21. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    Alright, I pretty much got my trans cross member figured out, but now, you statement on ladder bars, what I had been planning on doing was pretty much the same as this but different rear end of course
    rear suspension.jpg
     
  22. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    That will work, it's not perfect as there is still some binding. But, that is Hot Rodding to some extent, everything is a compromise. Not sure why they have the spring in front of the axle, but whatever. I posted some photos that are similar to what I am doing. I think what you in the photo is workable and a little easier and cheaper to fab (with the spring in the proper location LOL).
     

    Attached Files:

  23. nickk
    Joined: Feb 2, 2011
    Posts: 754

    nickk
    Member

    Yeah I'm not sure what the deal is on the springs, look like he swap the bells around. But I just went to carquest and poked around and found a Chevy trans rubber mount with the same concept the one you posted last night, but its only 1.750 thick which is nearly half of what my original is. I just have to re-drill the mounting holes on it to fit my transmission
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.