Projects 292 Chevy low rpm torque build

Hey guys I'm new here to the forums! I've gotta 1963 c20 Chevy with a bone stock 292 inline 6 in it. I'm really wanting to modify the engine (moderately) for increased low rpm torque (idle-2000 rpm). I was wondering if you guys on here could give me some tips and tricks!

 

Gee, I thought those thing were torque monster to begin with.
We had a '71 work truck with a 292 six, and I swear it could pull a house down!
I would be surprised if you could improve much on what Chevy built into it!
KK

 

Yeah, I'll go along with KK - don't think you'll do much better than what you got, providing it's in good condition.

 

Lots of power available. Should be able to give V8s fits. Comp |Cams has a couple of real nice Chev six hyd cams. Don't whimp out on choice. pick the RPM range that works for your car.
A compression increase would be a big help. Plane the head and if you had it out the block as well. Some porting and some slightly bigger valves would help. Headers would be nice or anything you can do to improve the exhaust exit including even a bigger exhaust pipe and big muffler. More carb would be nice although the 292 stocker is not bad. Rpm should be kept below say 5800for street use. I also deal with a long stroke so I understand must not get carried away with RPM. If I was a Chevy guy by favourite I would make it my life's mission to do a killer 292 , never mind the mild stuff, that would make the SBC guys wince every time I showed up. A six can be built for a pittance of the cost of an V8. There is nothing more fun then "hunting elephants with a BB gun and bagging a few!"

 

Engine has gobs of low end torque just the way it is. Depending on compression, oil usage, valve train condition, a solid overhaul may give best returns for $$$. I worked on a lot of 292's years ago in a small town Chevrolet dealership. Also did some dirt track racing against a few guys who ran them. I honestly think that lots of add-on speed stuff may well damage low end torque and possibly driveability........but you could brag about all the brand name speed goodies you've added. Your truck......your engine ......your choice

 

Do you know anything about the 12-bolt manufactured heads that they provide? They have larger valves, Port and polished, and have lump port intake ports on it! It seems like it's a really really good deal because I don't have the knowledge or time to modify my heads on my own... And I'm actually going to stick with the stock exhaust manifold so I can keep my heat riser for warming the intake during extremely cold Texas weather. I am okay sacrificing some power for usability. What about electronic components like coils and distributors? Any advice on that stuff?

 

The engine doesn't use oil what so ever and has good compression etc. I'm keeping things simple so I don't lose my drivability... i.e) keeping the stock manifold to have the heat riser so it can run well in extremely cold weather conditions

 

If the engine is set up well , proper jetting and in good condition there is little or nothing to be had with ignition mods.
I wasn't aware you could buy a done head so you are already ahead on that. I know the intake Lump mod is HUGE in regards to improving flow. We did our chev six ones by hand ourselves.

 

So a higher voltage ignition coil wouldn't do anything at all? For example, throttle response and cold starting?

 

Oh and what about cam lift duration and actually lift? I'm not too savvy on that so what would be some good numbers for keeping the torque down low where it's supposed to be

 

With what you ask- 0-2000 rpm for increased torque/power- unless your into swapping camshafts,not too much in that range,you can find one(many available),but your torque curve is gonna rise some.
Adding a hotter spark-Ign/coil, will definetelly help and not hurt.
Possibly headers/and or free flowing exhaust is always a plus.....
And maybe a lil more cfm to boot.....I would think that a 600 cfm carb with an electronic choke would suffice.....OR,if your keeping your stock intake,an adapter to a 2bbl would work fine....
I'm guessing the 3sp behind all this?

It's only a big bulky air pump.....The more efficient it flows in and out,the better the results.....

 

call Tom Langdon at Stovebolt

 

I'm putting an offy intake on it! (the 4 bbl one) and I am a dirt bike guy so I'm obsessed with EFI so I'm going to go with a Howell or Holley efi system that they sell, the main reason for efi is so I can have the insane throttle response WiWith good top end performance

 

With good top end performance* correction

 

I've heard a lot about him! I'll make a note and might just have to one of these days. I appreciate it!

 

I'd find the head from a 194 six cylinder with a casting number of 3864883; has the smallest combustion chamber to increase CR, and small ports for low end torque. Headers and intake like you planned on, and an HEI factory distributor. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

As far as ignition, as others have stated, you can simply do a swap of an entire GM HEI set up from a later 292. As far as the EFI.....not sure what insane throttle response is, but seems like a lot of expense and electronics. Upgrade to a widely available Rochestor 2GC two barrel.....which would adapt to the 4bbl intake with a store bought adapter plate and you will have as much throttle response as the rest of the truck can tolerate.
Also, find the original GM service bulletins which deal with front harmonic balancer looseness and/or slippage before you get buzzing the motor too much. Also, even more importantly, find the bulletin concerning the flywheel loosening up and tearing up lots of stuff. You will need to install a dowel pin and new bolts and lock washers.
Lastly, www.stovebolt.com and Inliners International have a wealth of knowledge on your motor

 

turbocharger anyone?

 

I've thought about a turbo before but I'm not sure it really suits me for what I'm doing (right now) I need to get the engine to where is absolutely perfect on reliability and awesome on power naturally aspirated!

 

Alrighty will do! I need to get a manual for the Ole pile of junk so I can actually know what I'm doing when I tear her down.

 

And I'm guessing Stovebolt and I will have everything I need for the project for the most part

 

Nothing that has been mentioned will give you more power than the stock engine at 0 - 2000 RPM. They were built to shine in that area and it would be hard to improve. More carb, cam, etc will give more power at higher RPMs but may actually cost power at low RPMs.

If you really need more low speed power, suggest you do a good tuneup, check compression, and if it still won't pull a load, install lower rear axle gears or smaller diameter rear tires.

But, as others have stated, if running right it should pull a house down with stock gearing. If it really lacks low speed power I would suspect something is wrong with the engine.

 

The engine is absolutely phenomenal at low RPMs but from gearhead to gearhead you can never stop wanting more right?! It never hurts to try to push the envelope! I think the biggest thing I'm going to try to achieve is a higher compression ratio and good gas flow throughout the engine. That can never hurt right?

 

Forgot to add, get Leo Santucci's book on building Chevy sixes. He's a master at it.

 

You can buy pistons for a 292 that runs on Propane gas, to bump up the compression a point or so.

 

Do you happen to know where I could get these?!

 

HEI is fine but beyond that is waste. Extra voltage gives back nothing. Once there is enough to lite the plug under all conditions that is IT. Comp Cams 268H is a beautiful cam on the street making excellent power but great mileage as well. Carb sizing for a six is best done by converting the cubes to an 8 . Cubes /6 X 8=389. I double that to get the approx. CFM and go closest down for street and closest up for strip. So for street 2x389=778 so a 750 either a SP Holley (3310) or a 750 Eddy would be real nice. You could go smaller but because both of these carbs have vacuum (holley) or velocity (Eddy)controlled secondary operation they stay shut till the engine can use it anyway and don't harm performance. (Why treat it like an 8? because the time available to ingest is what is critical and it is the same for an 8 as a 6 . If you reduce the carb size to 6 cly calcs you hamper the engines ability to make big power. I tested this several times and always got the same answer. Works much better with the 8 cyl sizing and low end does not suffer. )
Tom Stovebolts. He makes a real nice dual carb set up with dual exhaust as well. I would have nothing bad to say about it having seen it used on engines I built for the street. You could go EFI but powerwise will gain zip once it is warmed up. The propane pistons suggested above is a excellent idea. I would endorse it. You have lots of suggestions now so I will leave you to it. Don't be surprised if the performance is beyond your expectations. 8 cyls are for folks who can't make HP :>)
don

 

Man this is some great help! I did a little research just now and kinda came up with nothing on finding some propane pistons, maybe I'm just not looking in the right places. Do they even manufacture and sell these anymore?

 

Propane pistons are just replacement pistons with higher compression. Any piston manufacturer that supplies replacement pistons for your engine should have them. If you ask for "propane pistons" they probably won't know what you are talking about.

If you plan to punch the throttle at low RPM under load, better have high test gas if you have high compression pistons.

 

Summit lists propane pistons http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-980p30/overview/make/chevrolet
Kenny