Features Doing Falcons Right

When I bought them I was told they were off a 65.

The top one is off my car the bottom is the one I just bought. As you can see the end caps on the bottom one are longer. Do these grease fittings look big?


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There are smaller ones. Those are circa '65 arms.

 

Here's where I got my control arms, etc:
http://www.martinsvilleautoparts.com/suspension_kits.php

 

Yours is a 63 right? Even with the shims in place the rear grease fitting hits. I would like to avoid drilling a hole in the shock tower for clearance.


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If I'd paid more attention to your user name, I might have figured out you had a 61, sorry.
Sometimes I fail to grasp even the painfully obvious.
I definitely wouldn't want to drill a hole...

 

I wasn't sure if the towers were different. If I have to rebuild the uca I might as well buy new with the cost of shafts and ball joints.


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The towers are the same width where the control arm is '60-'66, Mustang, Comet, or Falcon.

 

So ClutchDumpin'Dan and I replaced the rear carpet set because the holes for the bench seat were in all the wrong places.

The gray/tweed rear seat looked ridiculous with the new buckets so it will go to the upholstery shop at a later date to be recovered in something that matches the new front buckets.....

In the mean time, Dan is going to make a ear seat delete plate to cover the fiberboard trunk divider. Nothing fancy or time consuming- just a few beads to strengthen the panel.

 

Temporary rear seat delete by Clutch Dumpin'Dan:



Shifter cover installed and we're done.
Ready for the Rockabilly Hot Rod Rumble on Saturday.....

 

Anybody got the left tail light area sheet metal, to fit '60-'63? Some clown just offset rear-ended me. Oh, and a '60-style rear bumper.

 

Oh no.....

Not a solid lead but I remember seeing them for sale recently so there out there. Good luck.

 

Already found all of the repair parts, and LOCALLY too!

 

What are you guy using for engine mounts, im covertimg my 6 cyl over. Would like to find some poly mounts ,can I just use stock 1963 v8 mounts? Im using a 302, didnt know if there were any differences between the 260 block

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How bad is it Gimpy?

 

The 260 mounts have the same spacing as all the other Windsor based SBF engines.
You'll need the right and left rubber insulated engine mounts (Rock Auto DEA A2220 and A2221).
The V-8frame mounts:
http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon-auto-parts/pc/1960-1965-V-8-FRAME-MOUNTS-65p492.htm ,
And the intermediate brackets:
http://www.falconparts.com/ford-fal...1965-V-8-INTERMEDIATE-MOUNT-BRACKETS-p547.htm

It looks like this.....I'm using an 87 E7TE 5.0/302 block.

 

And I recommend the "under engine" brace, too if you're converting an I6 car:
http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon-auto-parts/pc/1960-1965-UNDER-ENGINE-BRACES-V-8-18p1151.htm

 

I'd add frame connectors and other braces to stiffen the chassis 1. To reduce flex from the v8 on hard launches 2. Help with cornering

 

Are you sure you want poly mounts? You'd probably transmit enough vibration to rattle your teeth loose.

 

I wouldn't. I refuse to install them, unless on a race car. Most often, the only time I deal with them is when someone comes to me to take them out.

 

The very outboard end of the driver's side of the bumper got tipped into the quarter panel. that tugged the tail panel in by about 3/4", and the area under the tail light by about 2".

It is all very fixable. I already have all of the parts, including the bumper. My bodyman is ready to go. Just waiting for the insurance company to stop dragging its feet, and cut the check.

While it is there, we are going to do all of the other bodywork: mod'd front wheel arches in the rear, better outer wheel houses, shaved gas cap, Jag flip-cap, shaved antenna, shaved emblems. Paint, polish, rubber.

I am poking around for a hood, as mine has some deep pits, from ancient paint failure. Tossing around the idea of louvers, if I could just find someone to do them...

 

Thanks that is a HUGE help

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Poly is excellent for precise control. That said, poly bushings are just a degree or two away from a solid connection in terms of vibration transfer. Like you can't hold the steering wheel for an hour bad.

I like them only on anti-sway bar end links, and only else where a rubber bushing has already proven problematic.

 

I recently did a T5 swap which required some modifying of an existing C4 transmission mount. On the first test drive it felt like the whole damn car was shaking like it was missing a couple of cylinders. Turns out one of the upper trans mount bolts was touching the crossmember wing and sending all the vibrations up through the floor. I clearanced the wing some more and bingo, vibration solved. On another OT car, an annoying vibration resulted from a stone that kicked up and wedged itself between the trans and the crossmember, denying the rubber the chance to dampen the vibrations. I could never live with solid or poly mounts.

 

Well, I happen to know a way to make louvers happen!

 

a $500 roller project that some day will run at Bonneville:

 

I remember reading that somewhere.

 

any of you guys have a 1963 8" rear laying around in the new England area I need one!

 

63 eight inchers are getting scarce.....
This Virginia HAMB member has a complete 1963 5 lug V-8 eight inch; it's an open 2:80 or 3:25 I think:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/members/dagonitwit.22337/
Send him a PM or start a conversation or whatever it's called these days....

 

^ thanks what z bar did you use. I wonder if a 65 falcon z bar would work putting a 302 in a 1963 . Or I will have to make one to fit

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Sorry, cant help with that; I'm running an AOD (automatic trans).