Hot Rods 31 Model A Victoria Build w/Pics - Miss Vicky

If you have sanded the area so it looks like a smooth piece of marble just rub it with a rag and compound by hand. Once all the orange peal is gone from view hand buffing goes just as well as using a machine. Bob

 

I have this 3" sander kit from SO that has buffing pads that go with it. adjustable speed.. I had too many motorcycle fenders that wanted to go flying when buffing with the "full size" machine, so this does well for that. I also have the foam interface pad (Velcro attachment) that helps to follow the contour of the panel. Although you want mainly flat...



I'm sure there are other manufacturers that carry same/similar product with more reasonable price.

 

I'm thinking your best bet will be a drill mounted foam pad from a headlight kit and a variable speed cordless drill. Precision and control is what you need there.

3m finess is good stuff but its a glaze more to fill than to compound. I use the 3m compound that comes in 3 steps and 3 different texture/color foam pads, finess-it would be step 4.

 

Nice work it is going to look killer.

Harbour Freight has a mini buffer with pads on sale for $37.00 probably cheaper than buying an adaptor and pad for your current set up.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-pneumatic-polisher-kit-99934.html

 

Is this thing done yet ?

 

What you sold miss Vicky???


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Are you putting it on an S-10 frame?

 

I've been cleaning, painting and detailing the suspension prior to reassembly. Got the rear done today.




I decided to add a rear sway bar, so here's what I worked out for the end links – they're attached to the rear housing at the upper ladder bar mount.

 

Nice work!


Posted from an IBM Selectric

 

After modifying the shape of the sway bar with a little heat, I finished up the sway bar bushing mounting bracket and did a test fit. It's going to work out nicely.





Oh, and after a year and a half, I've got a rolling chassis once again.

 

Looking good Dave!

 

Dave, are you gonna' paint the sway bar mount to match the frame or are you going with the same black as the other suspension parts n' pieces?
Mount and bar both look pretty healthy, BTW.

 

Looking good, Dave.

 

Well wave when you pass the orange mills fleet farm building in Ankney on I35 I work in the green building right north of that.

 

I dropped the motor and trans in tonight.

 

Small update – I painted my 46ish Ford truck shifter knob with rattle can Rustoleum, and then cut and buffed it.




Got the fuel pump installed.




And I built some wheel dolly lifts to raise the chassis enough for top and bottom access when I build the exhaust. They stack inside each other for easy storage

 

Looking good Dave, looking good ....

 

Fuel pump n' filter lookin' good Dave.
Any more progress?
Or have you been sidetracked by the holidays?

 

Thanks Tom and Al.

I've been figuring out the exhaust routing and trying to come up with a way to quickly and cleanly cut the tubing.

I bought an old vertical band saw and I've gotten it working, but the Harbor Freight variable speed control box I bought doesn't work very well. When I slow the blade down to about half speed (still too fast), the friction of cutting metal just stops the blade. On the bright side the saw works great on wood.

I talked to John Mullen about how he rigged a similar saw with a jack shaft and bigger pulleys, but that just seems like a lot of trouble.

I'm now considering buying a used Milwaukee portable band saw off Craig's List and making a fixed bench top mount so I can feed the material I'm cutting and not have to hold the saw. I'll figure out what I'm going to do in the next few days. Then I'm on to cutting and tacking exhaust tubing.

 

What about one of these...

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/lil-31500?seid=srese1&gclid=CKul0PyM28ICFe_m7Aod5QcANA

If you go the portable saw route, check this out...

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/portable-bandsaw-stand.html

 

If you see a treadmill on the curb grab it. I repowered a bandsaw with one and its awesome. I'm going to do my drill press too.

AC motors can be dialed down but they loose their torque at low rpm. DC motors , like a tread mill have full torque at almost any rpm.

 

Hey Dan, what have you been up to?

I found that saw stand today in my research. That's exactly what I was thinking about making, but those saws aren't cheap. The manual tubing cutter you linked to looks awesome for the price though. I wonder how well it works and how long it stays sharp.

I read that treadmill motors were a good way to slow down traditional wood band saws, but no one has ever explained the AC versus DC motor thing in layman's terms the way you did Steve, so thanks a ton – now I understand. Will I still need to use the speed converter, or should I change to bigger and smaller pulleys? I know there are always treadmill motors for sale on Ebay. Thanks man!

 

Great to see the HEMI back in the chassis on one of my favorite HAMB builds! Have a Merry Christmas! Bob

 

I got mine off the curb. 9 out of ten times the running belt is ripped or a bearing for the running belt goes bad and out it goes. Motor isn't even broke in yet. Scrapers put them on eBay so ,,,,

With all the stuff you've done here, its nothing you couldn't handle. Easy compared to some of it. The hard part is the motor contrôler. I took the controller from the tread mill and mounted that on the saw. So basically the motor thinks its still in the treadmill. to run the saw I use the manual run mode from the treadmill settings. Hokey but it works flawlessly and cost less than 10.00 and just a few hours.

There are other more appropriate controllers available. They cost money but don't work any differently. They do look a hell of a lot better and more industrial and filling for a piece of shop equipment.

 

I've actually got an older "chain" cutter version of that pipe cutter that works pretty well.
Prolly been outlawed by OSHA by now.

 

Nice!

 

OK, I've got a couple of exhaust related questions – hopefully, someone can help me out.

1. Do the little louver openings inside glass pack mufflers face the engine or the back of the car?

2. Does anyone have a source for simple stainless exhaust hangers?

 

Man,the rolling frame looks fantastic,I know you are getting antsy again. HRP