Projects Dodge This - 1939 Dodge Southeast Gasser Build

Ooops I did follow your end gap advice on the rings. One time you said the crank could be turned by hand with low tension rings - I was thinking - there's no damn way, but sure enough its that easy. Is there a down side? Once a season rebuild ?

 

If its happy, & depending on how often you run it, maybe two seasons. When the compression ring is unhappy, the engine will not really respond to jetting or timing changes. You asked for a half fill on the block, so they filled one half the block completely?!.., I am speechless, & here's their sign! Hopefully its the driver side to combat torque steer. That side will run hot, especially once the block is "heat soaked", hope you have at least .006-.007 piston to wall on that side. You should do what you can to run water through that cyl head. Make a plate with a fitting for the usually blocked port on the firewall side of the head, and run a return line back to the front.

 

.003 on the mains is fine. Most like them @ .003-.0035

 

Lookin good brother. Keep me posted on the test drive date.

 

damn you work fast.....

 

Hell yeah, lookin' good man!

 

Plastigauge? Come on man . . .

I've got a plain jane set of outside micrometers and a nice brown and sharp inside micrometer

Looks great, probably not too much stopping you from Greer in April

 

I have been off of here for about 5 days man you are killing it.

 

God didn't make all of us machinists by trade Tyler Plastigauge is like the stewardess walking the isle before takeoff to check for seat belts, she knows it isn't gonna save your ass but we all feel better now - enjoy the flight.

 

Oh the randomness of the car build. So Josh (Tudor) sends me an email yesterday about and Instagram from Brett4Christ that showed a 39 Dodge front clip for sale - in ATL! Never spent any time on Instagram so after many texts and more emails, the guy gets back to me. $250 for the whole front clip and 2 nice rear fenders. He is a cool dude with a bitchen custom motorcycle shop. Not sure how we never crossed paths. Anyway Benderwerks is his Instagram name if you need any fab work in Atl.

Jump up early this morning and borrowed Laydrag's trailer :

 

Russ has a parts barn now so we stashed it up for now.

 

And since this is very rare - it only seems appropriate to post up one other very rare pic .... drum roll .... Russ' bathroom. I almost fell off the pot

 

Hey, didn't that light switch used to have a distinctive switchplate on it?

Russ has a parts barn now? I'm obviously buying the wrong damn lottery tickets.

 

Nice score Tony, and from a Christian too.

 

Yeah 'ol Brett4Christ is a good dude, that Brett4Allah dude keeps trying to cut my heads off. If you see him at Meltdown keep an eye on him.

 

Man, what are the odds! Hurts my head to think about it. SCORE!! I have a feeling you're gonna need those rear fenders, those glass ones just don't seem right.

 

Funny you should mention the glass fenders Tim, I spotted a 37? Plymouth Coupe on one of my routes the other day. It had what appeared to be glass fenders and running boards. The car looked solid from what I could tell, but I was going along about 80 mph at the time. I'll have to make that trek and check it out further as it was for sale.

Good score Tony. Look's like you'll be making test runs like Carl before long. WOOOOO!!! Here's to 2015

 

A very big Happy New year to all following this thread from here in the United Kingdom thanks for the great build Tony the clocks ticking

 

Happy New Year!
Semper Fi,...Devil!


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Haha! I have hunted my entire hard drive looking for a pic of that light switch plate It said "I love Chickens" I think.

Happy New year Rob hope 2015 has less broken shit

Next item to figure out is the gear drive and the fuel injection spud. Probably call Alky Digger in the morning, but it looks to me like the collar that the upper gear bolts to needs turned down enough so this aluminum spud can slide over the nose of the cam and engage the key. The key looks short to me.

Saturday me and Shawn are going out to Winder to see a guy called "Cam-o-sabi". He used to work at Reed cams and still has a setup to make cams. Should be interesting.


I'm thinking to just cut this steel collar the same amount at the step in the aluminum spud.

 

I can't stop drooling over your gasser!! Look forward to Steel in Motion this year!


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Happy New Year big dog! I randomly ran across your score in Instagram the other day. I wondered when you'd share your score here! Keep up the bitchin' work. Parking lot testing should be here in no time.


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Looks to be the easiest way.

Hopefully that's just black oxide over annealed 4140 and not nitrided over heat-treated material

 

It rained all day and I had the day off so decided to ask the engine guru Johnny Tomas what he thought.

Johnny doesn't hear so good so when I went in he was flattening the lobes on the camshaft from The Can O Worms. He was mumbling something like "That damn Tudor has scared the shit out of me for the last time ...."

 

Then he saw me

I explained the gear drive thing and he quickly pulled the cam and put the gear drive spud in the lathe.


Back at my shop I decided to torque the rod bearings down. Was waiting to see if there was any last changes but I think we are done. The Molnar instructions listed torque angle numbers - 60 degrees.

 

Next up was the gear drive. This was time consuming.



Supposed to mock it up with newspaper and then drill the block. Hated to do that after putting the crank and rods in but there is no way to do it without them.



Instructions say to set the clearance with newspaper.



Then drill and tap the block.


My last concern is the keyway engagement is really short! Need to consult with Cam-o-sabi on this. It does engage and lock in but it seems sketchy to me.



Test fit is good to go!

 

Tony, are you saying that little nub of a key sticking out in that next to last pic is supposed to be what drives the injector pump??? May look "sketchy" to you, it looks suicidal to me.
I hope that's not what you're saying.

 

I Agree with dirty of man can you clarify what you mean and the way the injector pump is driven.

 

Yeah is you scroll up to the picture with the pencil and the aluminum spud you can see the keyway in the spud. What I was going to ask Cam-o-sabi is if he can cut the key notch in the cam all the way out to the end, then we can use a long key and engage the steel and the spud.

 

I see that a woodruff is fitted so length divided by 2 = depth
Fitting a square key would not give the depth required to match the current woodruff key depth .
anything can be done but its not good engineering practice. you may end with an air gap under the key way.
Picture showing the injection pump drive may help understanding the problem a bit better.