Projects Front engine dragster-Chassis Research 1958 -"Moon Rocket"

Okay, this sounds reeeaaaly cool!! Do you have a email adress I can use? Realy realy cool

 

Should be able to email info@hilborninjection.com with the model number which is cast into the manifold and the serial number which is stamped on the manifold.

 

Thanks!! I Will check this out!

REALY Nice input

 

Shit, I dont know if I want to run on gasoline or methanol..

Maybe stick with the gasoline-plan.

Cooling issues?

 

Gas is for the tow car, alcohol is for racing. Cooling issues will become a problem with gas if you need to hot lap it, and then a complete cooling system which is a PITA to do and make look good in a dragster. Gas will also have to be really rich on the bottom for acceleration. Alcohol like to be fat and cleans up quickly and cooling issues reduced

 

I needed to read your words, yes, I really need to go alcohol!
I have been workin on a good lookin cooling system, but its too Hard to get that.

Everything is shown in a 50's FED..

Do you have some good advice, drivin methanol?

Many thanks

 

The biggest thing would be to get your fuel system and injector to someone with a bench to flow the unit with pump to get a usable baseline. Horsepower is Lbs of fuel per hour burned-PERIOD. The more efficiant the engine the more fuel it can burn thus making more power. Once a base is created, then its up to you to dial in to the max potential (high or low) of your combo. Between gas or alc, both will make the same power, They are not a power enhancer like nitro is. It takes 2.1 times as much alc to create the same amount of BTU's as gas does to create the same power, some one has to look at each of their advantages/dis-advantages to determin whats best.If class rules say "Gas only" there you go, If not then its open. High compression/boost gas can get very expensive(dont know what you pay for it) and paying $12-$14 a gal for gas vs $3-$4 for alc (X2--remember 2.1)is my answer.

 

Oh, by the way, I sent the hilbornfactory an email, asking about the intake I have.

And few hours later,, I got Everything I wanted! Supernice!!! Thanks for your help guys, I couldnt imagin that they had these data And checklists.

FEels better now when I know the year of it

 

Subscribed.

 

Yeah, I going to Contact alkydiggers and buy a Nice tested setup, with pump,nozzles,and magneto.

But I have now decided to run on methanol, specially for cooling issues.

Happy New year

 

Mike at Alkydiggers is as good as it gets--his daughter worke with him and knows how to treat customers--Mike shoots straight and will get you running right first time--One stop shop.
Run alky for sure!!!! I am a rookie but have found that a little Top Lube in the alky goes long way to keep everything "buttered up" and keeps corrosion at bay --I use for that reason.
Injected alcohol with a stack unit is a learning experience--they can be a PIA--run great --shut off--crank it two days later and you are at work on it again--yanking nozzles for quick blow out etc is normal--get used to it--Good filters with stainless elements are your best friend--Clean is Sexy as they say.
You will have a ball!!

 

I dig Diggers!

Why not Olds Rocket Power?

Never mind... probably rare as "hens teeth" in Sweden!

 

Wow, cool project.

 

thanks man!!

it Will be a interrsting experience to run stack injection, totally New for me.

And thanks for your inputs

 

It sure is..

 

I covered the holes in the intake and the milled surface with a brass plate.

 

See it better this way

 

oh thanks man!
Much better that way

 

needed to build a sealing and a cover for the rotating couplers. Found a torquetube in the garage , a donater .
I saw one HAMBers thread, building a opendrive shaft kit, going for same idea,
So here we go

 

now I need to find a sealing for MW coupler, and make that hole..

 

now I need some Tech advice... The coupler witch goes Into powerglide is "floating" , but on the pinion for Old Ford banjo axle, there is a hole thrue axle.
Should I drill thrue MW coupler or keep that "floating" also?

 

I can't see my New posts on New posts list?

 

Not nesassary, only reason other couples are locked onto the shaft is because they are part of the pinion retention. Just make a collor to fit between the jam nuts and the coupler so that the coupler does not ride on the spline ramp. Also possistion the coupler so that it covers the thru hole in the middle/front of the coupler and not towards the rear

 

This is good, beacuse, I dont realy want to drill in the coupler. But I need to make that collor you mentioned, so it can't travel the spline ramp. Thanks for those inputs dreracecar ,

 

Should I apply some grease in between the couplers? So its not "dry" between splines in coupler?

 

Yes unless it teflon coated.

 

Since there is load/presure involved --I would use Anti-seize instead of grease

 

I dont think they are..

 

Sounds good to me, thanks again