Thank you Sir! Means a lot coming from a senior member... I looked back at my thread and noticed how poorly engineered and badly executed the previous version was... To be honest my goal was to pretty her up, do the coach work and sell her, but here we are 4 years on... All that remains is the spirit of that car and a few frame pieces... Hopefully I will do her some justice. My goal is if Henry had built a speedster to take on the euros of the time! Whisky is back!
Little bit more suspension work... need to switch out suspension arms... more castle nut joy used a punch to remove the cotter pin unzipped with air power this was on here... used anti-seize to reassemble... Whisky is back!
passenger side dog bones rubber ball half a bone both halves this area will need to be drilled to accept the bolt as the notch is not big enough... Whisky is back!
On to some measurements... tie rod center to center is... 46.5" rear shackle width is 2.25" with a bushing OD of 0.75" Whisky is back!
Its unlikely that your shocks will work. Probably locked up. Even if they move they will need to be rebuilt and someone will have to machine new parts. See if they move in the right direction. I think the left front works on the right rear and right front on left rear. Theres no shame in using modern tube shocks which were introduced in 1947
Happy New Year to all! Especially those who helped and contributed to my HOT Rod..... Whisky is back!
Zipped up the dog bones... Pulling the other shock arm off... this was frozen! new arm hooked up but compared to the other side, is 30 deg off??? Is this because the shocks are frozen and immobile, or the incorrect shock? I.e not the correct position as I assume there are/were 4 shocks? Whisky is back!
Anyways... Moving on... time to remove the shackle pins... These will not budge! Hmmmm... rosebud tip time! came out without a fight Whisky is back!
Other side clamped really clamped! the bfh zone... acetylene first... slowly introduce oxygen until neutral flame... barely need much heat here hammer time tap tap tap and out she came! Whisky is back!
not so bad... onto the axle mounted pins used the air hammer for this... needed a lot of heat for this! almost there Whisky is back!
Suspension questions... Rough mock up... this needs to be 3/4" aft as you can see where this plate ends up this will stretch... however my concerns are in these pics... the shackle angles are way off do I cut the hangers and line the shackle angles up? Whisky is back!
Assuming your pinion is set correctly, I'd angle the spring mount to meet the axle. As much as possible. Finalize/tune the fitment by heating and bending the hangers. Looking really good man!
Yes my pinion angle is correct... I will angle the spring mount and then bend the hangers... Thanks bro! Would you heat and bfh, or pry bar? Whisky is back!
I spent a lot of time on Fordbarn learning about those shocks. Each repair part has to be individually made and will be expensive. Leaks are common. My conclusion was that they are not worth it and theydo not perform well. They ONLY fit one way! If the notch doesnt lineup with the pinch bolt, you have installed them at the wrong place. Tube shocks work well, are cheap and look just fine on a hotrod Rear spring packs can be difficult to mount and very dangerous! Disassemble the pack, attach the main leaf, it is easy, then use big C clamps and a spike thru the center hole to line up the leaves as you tighten with the C clamps then put the center bolt in and tighten it before releasing the C clamps
I looked back at your pictures and it looks like the rear axle is pointed at the transmission. The correct way is for the trans and axle angle to be the same. In other words, if the rear of the transmission is 3 degrees off vertical, the yoke on the rear axle should be the same 3 degrees off vertical.
Ok this makes sense... I already am willing to shell out the bucks for the rebuild... I will readjust the mount point for the shock and see where this ends up... More to follow... Thanks for the reassembly tip on the spring pack... I will attempt this when my shackle pins come in... Further, on those pins do I need to push out the sleeves on the main spring eyes, or can they be used with the P&J kit as a direct fit for the urethane bushings? I followed directions to a tee on the pinion angle stuff... My only two options are as above unless you have another option?? Whisky is back!
Ok... Read the tardel book and various other sources... Made sure my trans pinion angle is equal but opposite to my yoke angle right at 3.5 deg... Then lined up the weld points and tacked away... My rear axle shackle mounts appear to be 3.5 deg off which is equal to my yoke angle... So I need to offset my spring mount point 3.5 deg, or bend the axle shackle mounts 3.5 deg, or meet those angles somewhere in the middle... I have been told that this was the right way to go about it by many different builders... But wanted to run it by the HAMB pros... I can dial in the final angles also by adjusting the center crossmember (down would lessen the pinion angle) which I don't really want to do... Or dial in the rear pinion angle by adjusting the clevises on the ladder bars... I guess I could hack off the mounts and go with a P&J kit or fab something also... Please advise. Whisky is back!
So fellas the question stands... Do I tack my spring mount bracket at 3.5deg, or have I done something out of sequence... Where is Alchemy when u need him?? Whisky is back!
Unless your chassis is at 0°, then no. Yours is raked (lower in the front) so the angle would have to compensate for that, plus the angle of the pinion. Make sense?
The Jalopy Journal
