Anybody ever milled bottoms of wishbones 35/36 so they could run the short model a spring perches Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I guess it would actually be the thick part which is the top Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I just happen to have some 36 wishbones and 34 axle and model a perches I want to use what I have. And 34 wishbones are crazy priced. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The 35/36 front wishbone bottoms are too thin to mill. The top of the knuckle is lower than the top of the tube. I would not mill them. Instead, I would look for perches with longer pins. How are you going to mount your shocks?
Haven't thought about shocks.!! Damn I just so new to 30s stuff Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Lots of guys bend to the use of the lower shock mounts that don't fit the bottom of the wishbones...they key them so the mounts won't revolve, but they do. Try and find the RIGHT tapered nuts to fit the lower spring perches...there was a post...
I mused 35/36 front bones on my Model A project. I like them because they offer greater clearance for the tie rod. 06Ch***is04 by Bib Overalls, on Flickr For shock mounts I used an old hot rodder's trick. I welded bungs to the forged 32 heavy axle. 17FrontShockMounts03 by Bib Overalls, on Flickr This sets the shock a bit higher, a look that I like. 17FrontShockMounts08 by Bib Overalls, on Flickr Lots of photos here; https://www.flickr.com/photos/ratpoison/sets/72157612369733639/page4/
I like the bung idea. Probably go that route.! Thanks bib overalls Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That's the way I've done my last two. Works great and then you don't have to have that awful catalog shock mount on the bottom of the perch.
Heres an idea guys. I've got '36 wishbones on my Model A, with a dropped Model A axle. I have read in other threads of having the top machined down about 5mm or so, and then recutting the 60 degree taper for the perch to sit into which should give enough thread depth for the original Model A nut to secure the perch in the wishbone. I have yet to do this to mine though.. if i can find some longer perches i may just do that instead. As for shock mounts, i'm using some F1 mounts that i've heated and bent so that the holes match the two outer rivets of the original Model A crossmember on the side, and then i will be welding tabs on the wishbone to mount the shocks. Instead of running the shocks and shock mounts forward, i've put them backwards so they sit sorta hidden behind the headlights. I'm yet to do the mounts on the wishbone.. but i'm sure you blokes can imagine what a pair of tabs looks like.
That's a good idea but I would mock up the steering first along with the shock. The drag link from the steering hoop to the pitman arm looks like it might get pretty close. Unless you already have or you are using cowl steering. Hard to tell from the pic but just something I noticed, it wouldn't work on my AV8 unless the shock was almost straight up and down, even then I think it would be in the way. I have an A frame and an F1 box/36 pitman, my bones also are pretty outboard of the frame like yours. My pitman arm is between the bone and the rail, an F1 box doesn't stick out of the frame far enough to get the pitman outside of the bone. Wouldn't work on mine at all.
I'm running a '41 to '48 box, setup as cross steer like original. My car is rhd so that'd be why you can't see what's going on from the picture. The draglink will run from the pitman arm to the steering arm on the '46 - '48 spindles. The shock will mount on the wishbone so the steering will all run underneath the wishbone and shocks. You could replicate the same on a lhd car just the spindles and steering box would be back to front. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I understood where you were mounting everything, you just left out some pretty important details like the cross steering, your axle is wider than an A axle which also give you more room. That's what makes the difference. On a car set up like mine, and a lot of others, it would never work.
My axle is a Model A axle, although its been dropped.. so i don't know whether or not its been stretched and if so how much.. i haven't bothered to measure it. Sorry i forgot about the cross steer haha. I see what you mean about your pickup.. looks very busy up front there!
Yeah from the pic angle. There's plenty of clearance for everything involved, and it all rises and falls together. This winter I may get another pitman arm and heat/bend it to go outside the bone but I'm not sure when it moves forward if it will clear the bone. We will see. Not sure if I will like how it looks that way either.
A few months old post is ok right? I have a '36 axle with '36 wishbones on my A. I used AA perch pins, turned down to match the model A pins (you also have to cut the width down for the A spring), I thought the step in the bone end would look weird. They're the right legnth......in the pic below is before the width was cut.
On my '33 sedan, I used '40 wishbones and had a friend machine the tops down so they were thinner and recut the taper. They look much better cut down.
I just did mine tonight, cut 3/8" off the top of '40 bones leaving 3/4" thick of material. 60 degree countersink will be delivered in a couple days to finish it up. It will lower the front end 3/8" too. I scribed a line to follow, and used a right angle grinder with a cutoff wheel.
I'm having issues with tube shock placement on mine so I might need to chop the top to run the lower shock mounts. What size countersink did you order (11/16"?) and from where?. So now with the 3/8" off the top is it the same size as the A bones.
The widest part of the perch bolt(mine) is 1.100, so I looked for a 1.250 cutter and ended up getting a single flute 1.5 diameter cutter with .5 dia shank. I figured the machine shop fee to do the work, would be that of the bit. One more tool for me.
Loving the idea of the additional drop and slimming down that part, but my only concern is whether there's enough clearance left between the spring / shackle and the top of the axle to allow the shackle to articulate without interference. I'll measure mine (in progress using '40 bones - split - all mocked up and rolling) when I get home! Chris
Looks like the '40 has more room to lose on the top, the '35-'36 would have a weird step down if milled.
Big duece, did you finish your bones? have any pictures?. I going to do mine so I can run the lower shock mounts.
Update for anyone who wants pictures or cares. Weird step made to look less weird and lower shock mount (I really didn't want to weld onto the axle and the side steering was in the way.
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