Was wondering if anyone could tell me what height radiator to order from Walker. I have a 31 five window highboy coupe with 8BA flathead using a 32 grille shell. Need to know if I want a stock height, 1 inch short, or 2 inch short to get correct slope from cowl to top of grille. New to the game, first build.
I've got a '31 Hiboy roadster on '32 frame, and an "A" front crossmember ,all of which are Brookville stuff, and the '32 grill shell and Walker radiator are 2" shorter than stock '32.
I bet 2 inches from what I have read. You might want to get a price from superior radiator. Lots of good comments form other members lately. Search for superior radiator for the thread.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I think you will need to tell Walker you are using a model a frame when ordering. When I had The Brassworks build my deuce radiator years ago they put model a tanks on the bottom and a deuce tank on top, because I am using a model a frame and deuce shell too. Discuss that with them to be sure. BTW, Hotrodprimer is nicely trying to tell you not to refer to your model a coupe as a 5 window, that term is reserved for other years of Ford coupes. Just call it a model a coupe to avoid people constantly correcting you. Don
Thank you, the all model a coupes are five window thing is getting old. Standard coupe, Special coupe, Opra coupe, sport coupe. Let people call them what they want. My coupe happens to have 5 windows. No disrespect HRP
Thanks for all the replies, didn't mean to ruffle any feathers over the window count. My mistake. On the other hand it sounds like 2 inches short is the magic number to get the right look so that is what I'm going to shoot for. I'm much better with tools than computers so it takes quite awhile for me to reply. Would like to hear more comments and ideas if possible. The area where I live is more of a street rod scene than a hot rod scene. Have built lots of Jeeps but this is my first hot rod. Thanks again.
Base on some miss-information and the 5 window drama, you've come to the wrong conclusion. A stock '32 radiator for a flathead V8 is what you need if you mount your 30-31 body on a model A frame at stock location with the original wood blocks between the frame and body. The 2" chopped rad is needed for '32 frames for the proper hood slope because of the slightly up-swept '32 frame rails. Model A frames are flat. Also, the 8BA is a tad long for the engine bay unless you stretch the frame. I prefer to recess the fire wall and keep the original wheelbase. That way it's possible to use a stock hood..if desired. Mock-ups are your sure bet to get it right. Be careful making any purchases based on thread advice. If you order over the phone from Walker, it will be right.
Anybody have the dimensions on a 2 inch shorter radiator for the 32 frame application? I have a new Walker radiator that came with a 31 project but no info on it.
The height from the bottom of bottom tank to top center curve in the top tank is 25" on a 2" chopped radiator...that's measured on a Walker. Radiators for flatheads will have two tubes in upper and lower tanks.
Sorry it takes me so long to reply, been working long hours lately. I'm going to take your advice and call Walker. The black coupe in the first picture is exactly the look I'm trying to achieve, the hood slope looks perfect. I have already stretched the frame for a better fit and wasn't going to run a hood anyway. Thanks for the help.
To clarify....my grill shell is off so I measured from the front of the radiator and it is exactly 25 inches from the bottom of the tank to the center of the top tank. Looks like I may have the shorter Walker unit. Would you concur flthd31?
Yes, That would be a 2 inch chop for a Walker radiator. That should get you close with your '32 frame but as I mentioned in your build thread, you should do a mock-up with the body in final resting place to determine grill shell height. There is really no changing the shell height once the radiator is purchased. Hopefully you'll be OK. I personally think a 2 1/2 inch chopped rad is perfect but without a hood, it's not as critical.
I will certainly do that weather permitting later on. For the present time we are (like most) locked in the garage. Have to work on the body mounting first. Rear sub rails, although new, will have be cut again and redone. They presently are hitting the rear hump in the frame and are lifting the body a bit.
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