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Projects Model A Coupe Build- Rat Rod NO MORE

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rustridden31, Jan 2, 2015.

  1. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    Hey hey fellas, I've been on HAMB a while. I've been addicted to it for about 11 years after I bought my coupe from fellow HAMBer, Zibo. I first saw it in front of his kayak shop in Ventura and had to have it. You can check out the pics and see it had a banger and was a driver. I channeled it about 9 or 10 years ago and haven't had much of a chance or money to do anymore major work.

    I sold the banger drive train this past fall and that should fund my build to make it actually drive like a hot rod instead of just look like one. The banger was stock and did about 55 mph but I never wanted to run it long at that pace.

    I had a 59AB on an engine stand for about 5 years with plans of a post war build. But with my limited resources and time I decided to change directions and go semi-traditional 60's build. Yes, I went to the dark side and got a SBC 350. (My first car was a 68 Camaro and I still have it after 25 years so I am very familiar with SBCs.)

    I moved to Denver area 5 years ago from So./Central CA so parts aren't as plentiful out here. I can't just go to Pomona Swap or Turlock and pick up some parts. They have one big parts swap here and it is more muscle and late model stuff (at least when I went).

    Anyway, my current plans are to unchannel it, Bleed sweep the front, kick up the rear about 8 inches so that it has a very noticeable rake (not level!). Engine is '69 350 with triple Holley 97s,Trans is a 4+3 Doug Nash OD out of an '88 Vette (This is where the semi in semi-traditional comes into play) I just don't want to put an automatic in it, I am a staunch believer that hot rods should have 3 pedals. Rear end is a posi 10 bolt out of a 60's muscle car. I'm keeping the undropped Model a front axle because I like how it looks [and is] wider when they are not dropped. Front suspension will be a Rolling Bones/axle in front/spring on Radius rods. I think, I haven't made the final decision yet. I like how stubby coupes look with the stock setup so I will need to make a decision soon. I still haven't decided on paint yet either, either dark burgundy with black frame, wheels, suspension OR bright green metal flake with white frame and chrome steelies. Chrome parts will be*****tered here and there. If I go with the green metal flake I would do a white vinyl intereor. Decisions decisions.

    I've been holding out on starting this thread as I don't get a lot of garage time. So please bear with me and I will try to keep posting as much as I can. Thanks

    as purch\'d 01\'03.jpg As I fell in love with her in 2003.
    tank 05\'03.JPG Shot of the plush intereor that came with the car. (I put in the spun aluminum tank after I bought it)
    aftr visor 05\'03.JPG After some rattlecan and some elbow grease.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2015
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  2. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    Just figured out all the pics I've taken with my phone are too large. I'll continue posting once I figure that out.
     
  3. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    edit1.jpg Here's what it looked like before I took it apart.
    edit3.jpg Here it is after I sold the drivetrain
    . edit2.jpg As you can see i am limited on space in my two car garage with my '68 Camaro sharing the space. If you look close you can see I welded up a dolly for the body high enough to where I can work under it on the frame. I made it with rails that slide inside of eachother so I can widen it to roll over the frame when it has wheels on it.
     
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  4. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420263417.526165.jpg Here's the frame stripped down. The frame is a tad crooked at the front crossmember somewhere so I plan on removing it to release the tension, straighten the lowering job that was done on the crossmember and reweld it in straight.


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  5. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    I started on the front crossmember, cut the frame horns (to accommodate the axle in front), I found out that there are some hidden rivets that are flush with the top of the frame rails. I drilled them out. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420263798.083952.jpg
    You can see my pilot holes in the rivets.



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  6. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    I straightened out the crossmember and decided to make room for my crankshaft pulley while the crossmember was off of the frame.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420263997.882449.jpg
    I cut out a section but left some at the ends for extra support.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420264059.429442.jpg
    I sliced the lip in order to keep the same design of the old removed section.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420264145.531994.jpg
    Hammered it, clamped it, welded it
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1420264197.635712.jpg
    Finished it.


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  7. rob lee
    Joined: Jul 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,331

    rob lee
    Member
    from omaha,ne

    Nice upgrade! Cool car,like the stance. Rob
     
  8. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,128

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Nice progress and I like your plan.. Keep us updated...
     
  9. oldsman41
    Joined: Jun 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,556

    oldsman41
    Member

    I cant express how much I like model a cars. stance on yours is nice hope you get a lot of garage time so you can get driving time. good luck keep us posted
     
  10. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    Thanks a lot guys. Hope to get more done this week. Just realized I can post pics and everything from my phone on this HAMB app. This app shreds!! Good job Ryan.


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  11. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    I was finally able to make it back to the garage. I made some progress, not a lot but even a little is great. I started the sweep up front. I also got my front crossmember back in place earlier in the week.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421556675.570166.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421556772.090715.jpg


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  12. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    I started out with 4 cuts but it didn't give me enough sweep. I determined that 2 more cuts would do the trick. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421556899.974719.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421556928.489602.jpg before the 2 extra cuts.



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  13. You are making progress, thanks for sharing with us.
     
  14. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    Once I got the frame cut I clamped some extra stock to straighten the rails and keep them straight while welding. I'm nervous about this thing getting*****eyed. I kept checking my level on the frame throughout the process. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421557166.716690.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421557189.834659.jpg
    I switched back and forth between the two rails while welding the slices.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421557285.252300.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421557307.176361.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421557332.876758.jpg
    Added some fish plates on the inside so once the rails are boxed nobody will see them. I ran outta time and will have to finish welding the plates later as well as clean up the welds on the outside of the frame ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421557506.216905.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421557524.432833.jpg


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  15. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    Thanks for the replies fellas. I liked the stance ok that I had before but I've always wanted more of a rake. I think we all have in our minds how we think a hot rod should look. Of course I like many different kinds of looks and eras but when I was younger I saw a black '32 coupe drag car and the stance has always stuck with me. The thing was raked and low. The bottoms of the front rails were level with the ground so with the bit of upsweep in the deuce rails it had a sweet rake. That's why I wanted to sweep the front of mine. I plan to try to recreate that stance that is in my mind.


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  16. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    This is an example of the rake and height that I want but mine will not be channeled. Therefore the frame will hang even lower. . I got this pic from someone on here. Thanks to whomever's it is ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421558442.448213.jpg .



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  17. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,307

    missysdad1
    Member

    I think your thinking has gone awry somewhere. You can't get to your example car's stance without a hefty channel.

    It would appear that your car is already channeled the width of the rails, but your example car has been channeled quite a bit more.

    I think you'd do well to find another example that more faithfully represents what you are trying to make your car look like...and give you an idea of what's necessary to get it that way.

    Also...be aware that any channel and your sweep will require the radiator shell AND THE RADIATOR to be sectioned to get the hood line proper. This requires a lot of engineering to get right, which is why so many channeled cars have the grille shell too high which totally spoils the look of the car.

    Great project!
     
  18. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    Thanks for the comment. As I stated in the intro I am unchannelling my car. I channelled it myself some time ago and made the applicable adjustment to my radiator and it is spot on due to using a shorter radiator and trimming my grill shell. In regards to me getting the stance I want without channeling, of course it is possible. I am referring to the angle of the body. Now whether my frame will be too close to the ground is something I am still trying to determine. If I had a proper frame fixture I could set my frame the angle and height I want and go from there. All I have are jacks so I will need to be creative. I hear what you're saying though about how some cars are built out if proportion and look odd. I've tried to think through this build pretty extensively the last ten years. We'll see


    If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

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  19. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    I was able to grind down the welds a bit this evening. With all the pitting left from the 4 banger engine mount plates I wasn't able to get a smooth finish. I'll use body filler to smooth it out when it's time for paint. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421633416.520616.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421633444.733897.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1421633463.328359.jpg


    If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

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  20. flthd31
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 600

    flthd31
    Member

    I've built a few A coupes without a frame table. You do have to be creative to get the stance "just right" for your taste.
    I like to select tires and build some cheap dollies out of scrap angle iron based on the tire size. You don't need to buy the tires, just get the dimensions and build the dollies accordingly. Then mock up your suspension and step back and see what you have. If something looks goofy...you'll see it quickly. Helps when moving the build around the garage also.

    31 coipe_002.JPG
     
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  21. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    Flthd31 that's a good idea, thanks. Nice project by the way!


    If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

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  22. I wouldn't worry about your frame being to close to the ground.

    Now if I'm understanding you correctly on your stance,
    You want the wheels and tires the same relation to the body ?
    You want the body the same relation to the ground and then get the frame below that?

    You'll need some really really deep Zs in that frame front and back and a flat crossmember up front.

    image.jpg

    Print that out and draw your frame under it.
     
  23. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    Rad! Yes, you follow correctly. Good idea. I tried something similar in my computer's "paint" program but it wasn't consistent as I adjusted stuff. I will give that a shot. I'm thinking I may not have swept my frame enough up front. I'll have to try this idea. Thanks 31 Vicky


    If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

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  24. If you sweep it too much (that much) it will look broken.
    You can completely hide a z in the toe kick of the cowl if the car is channeled and it will look like a radical channeled car. I'll bet the white car is set up like that.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2015
  25. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,307

    missysdad1
    Member

    I must be really dense cuz I can't picture this at all...without it looking really awkward forward of the firewall. I think 31Vicky had a great idea for you to photoshop it first, then cut and weld. You've sure got my attention with this project!
     
  26. cool build!
    excited to see the progress.

    and i 2nd that awesome wheel dolly idea from -flthd31
     
  27. Just for some reference , livewire coupe.

    image.jpg

    This car has a swept frame by bob bleed so this little trick has been called the bleed sweep. It's about 4" of change and there's a 2nd bend behind the tire to bring the frame back level. It's end result is about the same as a Done spencer front Z. The rear has a kick up of about 11" & It's channeled 4".

    Ok now if your minds eye can raise the body up those 4" of channel in the you'd be pretty close to the ride height of your white car but the rake is off a little bit.

    This one will be a pretty low slung little roadster pickup. Theres 4" of change here but the eyes say it's more.

    image.jpg
     
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  28. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    31 Vicky, so is that your frame on the table there? On the kick up in front how many slices did you do and how far apart where the slices? And did that give you about 6 inches?


    If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

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  29. Loosely patterned off a 33/34 rail
    2x6 tube - There's 3 miter cuts thru the taper from 6 to 3"
    Internal fish plates.

    image.jpg
    Rear curves and kick up also taper from 6" to 3
    The gussets keep it from twisting while it's being welded. Since these are 4 pieces there's a lot of weld. The gussets get blind plug welded thru the cap too.

    image.jpg
    Rear kick up is not in position here so you'll need to use your imagination
    There's 1 vertical pie cut here you can't see to bring the horns in.
    image.jpg

    After it's all together there's a few tricks to soften the corners at the miters and eliminate the abrupt direction change. I find it easier to to that after since it's just cosmetic.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2015
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  30. Rustridden31
    Joined: Oct 9, 2003
    Posts: 264

    Rustridden31
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    I just Reread your post, I guess you are saying it gave you 4 inch drop right?


    If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

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