finally got that last bushing piece out!!!! stretching the spring to get hangers on left side right side spring pack re-assembly... finally got the last one on... clamped up with the spring plate ready for tacks www.whiskycityleathers.com
left view front left tack right tack center tack wheels back on zipped up taken off jack stands www.whiskycityleathers.com
Few more shots... Panhard mock... as I will get to this tomorrow this will need some trimming front panhard on frame axle mount... www.whiskycityleathers.com
A few things I see that need clarifying: How thick are the tabs that your front wishbones mount to at the frame? That metal should be as thick as the bevel is deep on those rod ends. Probably about 5/8" thick. And the tab should be beveled at the same 7 degree taper as the rod ends. Next time you cut a wishbone to change the caster, cut the side you wish to REDUCE. The way you did it, by stretching that piece apart, you will need to glob a bunch of bugger welds to fill a gap. If you removed from the top side instead, you would have a nice tight joint to weld. You probably won't need all those spring leaves from your original packs. Probably remove #3, 5, 7 and try it like that. Your rear panhard bar needs to have it's joints (the bolts that hold it on) parallel to the frame/ground, not all tilty like you show in your mock-up. The bar will go up and down, and the joints won't move properly when set on their sides like that.
Thank you Alchemy for your advice... -I will go back and and re-pie cut those... At the top as you say... Worse case scenario I have an extra set of bones... But that gap of .300" is what I needed to move forward with the front end mock up... I am going to take the bones off and finish weld them on the bench... With the cuts on top as you say to close the lower gap... -on the frame mounts they are a 5/8" and I ordered them from P&J.., with the tie Rod bevel built in so that should be fine... -will definitely remove 3-5-7 and retry it... -again the panhard is just a quick mock up... I understand the concept completely and just needed to hold it in place for a quick shot and that was the only way the magnets would hold it... In fact I need to do a lot of chopping/fabbing/tacking to get to where I need to be Overall I'm happy at where I am at and appreciate your invaluable input... Whisky www.whiskycityleathers.com
Question on the panhard set up... I assume perfectly parallel will be at ride height wheels on the ground? www.whiskycityleathers.com
Yes, should be parallel to the axle when all the weight is on the car. Kinda hard to know that exact height now, isn't it? A half inch here or there probably won't affect it much.
That's what I figured... Going with the single spring up front and 50% less in back should approximate ride height... More to follow www.whiskycityleathers.com
Great job pennafxu on your build, I've always loved the 27 sedan. I built one in 06 using a 390 FE Ford engine and had a blast in it. Keep up the good work it's going to look Kool.
Thank you Mr Mac... That's a fine lookin' 27... What rear suspension did you run? www.whiskycityleathers.com
I used quarter elliptic springs. Took a 57 for sp[ring and cut It's hard to see in the pic, but I used quarter elliptic springs. I used a 57 Ford spring and cut it in half. The car rode like a dream not choppy.
Kool man... Yes they hide well! How long are those shocks in the back at compressed length? www.whiskycityleathers.com
Totally understand! Thanks for sharing your beautiful T, it's an inspiration for sure!! I love the color too! Warm Regards... Whisky www.whiskycityleathers.com
So back to the rear end... Due to the rear Z of 10-14" I had to go with some longer shocks and a buggy spring... will go every other again... As I am currently bottoming this out with my 200lbs jumping on it with just 2 leaves!! rear left monroe shocks www.whiskycityleathers.com
plate right shock front view rear view of roller better approximation of the panhard mount to frame higher view... will need to lower the frame mount and shorten the bar length the axle mount will also get the chop! www.whiskycityleathers.com
How you gonna get the bar off after you weld those tabs to the frame? I'd suggest welding a threaded bung into the front side of the rear crossmember, and screwing the bolt in from the front side tab. And you are still going to rework the axle's mount so the bolt is forward/back, not up/down, correct? And, sorry to bring this up again, but the nose of your rear axle sure looks like it's pointed sky-high. Can you understand why we were all concerned about your U-joint angles?
Again just test shots... This is still way off in terms of panhard... More to follow on that... On the pinion angle that's a bad angle... It is definitely 3-4 deg Thank you for your input... www.whiskycityleathers.com
That pan hard set up looks wrong to me! I would never do it like that, but again I'm not you. I'm looking forward to see the real set up. Bolts has to be parallel to articulate. But as alchemy pointed out the is some thing wrong with you whole set up. If you use a small tower on the axle, like you use on the frame end of the front one, so you can run double sheer. And use standard bolts, instead of bungs, if you get issues and with threats, just pull bolt and nut, replace with new. If you flip the nut and bolt around before tacking it can come apart afterwords. And if you put a washer between bushings on initial mount up, you got room for paint too.
All the track bars and Jacob ladder I seen always have parallel lines of attachment not 90 deg. And always in double shear, but that's my 2cents worth
The end of the bar would need to be turned 90* too. If the axle is moving up and down the bar will be just flexing in the bushing until something breaks.
Thanks for all the input... Does the length of the bar matter? I.e arc length travel...Also will go double shear... Also how much away from parallel causes issues?? www.whiskycityleathers.com
The longer the bar the better. Can't get too long. In actuality, any deviance from parallel will cause issues, but how much of an issue is the concern. You have semi-pliable bushings to take up a degree or so. Shoot for perfect, and let the bushing make up for any mistake. Don't make it less than perfect on purpose.
Yessir Mr Alchemy Sir... Shooting for nothing but perfection here... just trying to find the right compromise between the length of the rod and the space I have on that rear frame kick up as it angles in the back...
several pages back you asked about bump stops for the steering. The kingpin is locked into the axle with a funny looking bolt and the extended nut is the stop. Also kingpin inclination is measured on the kingpin, not on top of the axle (post 2029) Caster is usually set where the radius rod meets the frame, no need to cut the radius rod
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