I have a '46 Ford that has been converted to 12v. It is still a flathead car w/ a 12v generator, 55-57 Ford voltage regulator and a Rebel Wire 9+3 harness in it. I ran one of the Mac Auto Parts 3 gauge voltage reducers for the original gauges. Everything worked fine for a while but I noticed the temp gauge not working last weekend after sitting for a few weeks. Is it possible for the voltage reducer to go bad and cause the gauges to stop working or so do I have bigger problems? Anyone had one of these things go bad on them or a runtz style reducer go bad? Any help would be appreciated!
On my 61 the reducer controls voltage to both the gas and temp. gauge. If your gas gauge is original and still working its probably not your voltage reducer. Might check the temp sending unit or the gauge itself. Of course I'm****uming you have one reducer running the panel and not one for each gauge. I checked my bad gas gauge by putting 3 D cell bateries in series to try and move the gauge, not sure if that would work on a temp gauge.
Then its probably the reducer or a ground. I have had a few go bad but they were the older style with the spade lugs
....................................Good advice on the ground. Double check all your grounds for secure and clean.
Here is what I have found tonight. With the key on, the temp gauge is pegged to the hot side. With the ground undone it goes back down to the left but will climb when the ground wire is grounded. Nothing else is working either. Fuel level, oil pressure. I have seen on other threads about 70-80s ford truck gauges using a factory style voltage reducer. Does anyone have the part number on that? Or is it something that will need to be sourced in salvage? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Heres an old post about how to do it with LM 7806 voltage reducers. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-build-a-voltage-regulator-for-3.448038/ I did this on my Kaiser instruments in my model A and the gauges work fine for me. Tom...
Here is what I found. The ford style replacement http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...archTerm=instrument+cluster+voltage+regulator And an aftermarket single gauge style http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/parts/Duralast-Voltage-Regulator/_/N-6b735?id=129767 Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here is what I found. The ford style replacement http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...archTerm=instrument+cluster+voltage+regulator And an aftermarket single gauge style http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/parts/Duralast-Voltage-Regulator/_/N-6b735?id=129767 Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The case of the regulator must be grounded, typically where the attaching screw contacts a grounded surface like a grounded cluster with single wire metal socket lights.
Finally put a voltmeter on it. With the key on and ground hooked up it shows .5-.6v. With the ground unhooked it shows 6.2v. Makes no sense to me. I also purchased one of the autozone VR-1 reducers yesterday and one connected to the battery it is showing 12.3v on both sides. So that don't look like that will work for anything. Might just be a bad part. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
mac's has the "instrument cluster constant voltage regulators," which is what i think you're after. $23.95, two model-specific p/n: 49-31408-2 (57-59 ford/merc) and 49-31408-1 (58, 60 edsel).
The one I had to replace on the Mustang did the same thing about working until grounded. Bought new one, hooked up wires, attached to cluster, and solved problem. ????????
Hidden, The picture you show is most likely just like the recommended AC Delco part # U1745 that is found in so many threads like this one http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/6v-to-12v.html. It is simply a 1.5 ohm resistor that is good for a maximum of 4 amps. It is NOT a voltage regulator and in fact you will read battery voltage on both sides of that part until current (amps) is drawn by your gauge. It is by no means a voltage regulator and in fact will always present your gauges with HIGHER than 6 volts till the amp draw reaches 4 amps. Having said that, it is used quite often and successful on the oil pressure and water temp gauges. I have one in my 53 on those gauges. However I found it does not work for the fuel gauge. I still have an aftermarket 12 volt fuel gauge in my 53, which works fine, but am in the process of configuring a solid state voltage regulator (mentioned above in this thread, LM7806) for the in dash fuel gauge. cheers, Willie in Phoenix
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