Projects 33 chevy 3w....time for a cool change

thanks! once i got everything fitted and made the inner steel supports, i took the doors apart. i scraped off all the tar paper stuff, and sandblasted the bottom edge that had rust. i found three small pin holes on the passenger side and a dent that was filled with lead on the driver side. i had noticed that the wood on the driver side looked burnt [see photo post 440] now i know why. now that the wood is out i could grind the lead out and and tap the dent out. on the passenger side i welded the pin holes and ground them smooth.

 

i painted the inside of the doors, the new pieces of wood and the steel inner supports.

 

Nice work, been following the post for a while. Is that a '36 Chevy cab I spy in the second picture???

 

thanks, glad your following!
no that is a '37 i am restoring for a customer. worked out good, i had a '38 i resto-rodded last year so i ended up with a bunch of good parts.

 

Stopped by tb33anda3rd's today and was glad to see him working feverously on the Coupe! Some photos of the car and man
Doors look much better with a clean camera lens

I just figured out why you don't see Chevy Hiboys. They sat over the frame already

Car is in amazing condition and it looks great. Brings me way back 53 years when I first had a ride in it with Ted's Dad.

 

finished putting the doors back together, cleaned a lubed the latches, and lubed up the regulators. i used what i guess is todays equivalent of the tar paper they had on the inside of the door. it is a foil with a rubbery layer with a adhesive on the back. i bought the six inch wide rolls at homecheapo for $17 a roll. i used one roll with about 4" left over. i heard this stuff reduces heat and noise

 

You need more tools there. Only three drills, two grinders and one DA

 

You have not seen this guy work!

 

and a shot of the gauges

 

you should see the floor and the workbench....

 

See, them nasty little********s hang out at your shop too.

 

friggin' cold out there

 

got the running boards back from the blasters, lots of little holes, spent the weekend. welding them up. took my time but i ended up with a twist to the boards. it happened as i welded up the center "rib" so i hammered the welds till the panel flattened out. took some time but they lay flat.

 

i also made new filler pieces for the upholstery on the door to tack to.
i made a couple blocks that connect the out side vertical support on the door to the new bottom cross board.
the later chevy doors i have worked on had a cross brace bar that ran from the upper hinge area to the back lower side of the door. although my doors are now tight and aligned i wanted to add them. i used screen door braces that had a turn buckle in the middle. i put them in.....but i don't know if i like it.....i don't need them.....they are already done and won't hurt anything if they stay in.
opinions?

 

also put the "tar paper" on the inside of the deck lid.

 

I would just put lock nuts/star washers on the turnbuckles so they cannot loosen up over time. Other than that carry on!

 

good idea!

 

Leave the screen door adjusters in, I love the sound of a screen door slamming shut, sounds like Summer. Bob

 

Bob Bob Bob I think winter is taking it's toll on you!

 

Is the window down all the way in those photos? If so that area would make a great storage pocket without the diagonal braces.

 

good thought and yes the window is down all the way. i have a spot my dad just built into the package tray for the reg' and "personal protection" and the only other thing i plan on hauling is****.

 

pulled the head liner out today. my dad never thought the interior job was very good. it held up well but had a few "bad" spots. found a mouse nest and spent most the morning pulling staples and tacks.

 

then i pulled the Julianos top kit i put on back in '83. i forgot how many pop rivets it had holding down the aluminum track. i had saved the original tack strip trim but i feel the Julianos kit is far superior. it uses a canvas cloth that tacks to the wood, then foam that is glued and trimmed then the vinyl top material that is held in by an aluminum track that is pop riveted down. the track is covered by a vinyl trim that resembles the shape of the original chevy 1/2 round trim.

 

the 8 wood strips were very dry and "crispy" so i removed them. they were made from 1/4" hardwood plywood. i also removed the front header board, both ends were "weak" and as shown in the photos i had riveted a piece of flashing to support the corners of the canvas. when i installed the top i did not remove the headliner so i did not realize how bad the wood was.

 

i think these aluminum strips holding down the edge of the slats are factory. maybe?

 

i pulled all the nails and then scraped off the old glue and sanded around the perimeter. i wire brushed and spot blasted the inside and painted it.

 

i also polished the chrome trim ring for the dome light. does anyone know if it is the original '33 dome light? just curios i like it wether it is or not.

 

found a piece of hardwood plywood left over from a furniture/cabinet project. it is 3/8" but will actually work better. these are the pieces i will need to make, the front header, the rear slat tack strip support and eight of the slats [sample for width only].

 

This far may as well take 8" out of the top! Remember I just got back from the Rolling Bones Garage.

 

only 8"?