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Projects front wheel locking up not moving freely

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Demitri, Feb 16, 2015.

  1. Demitri
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 5

    Demitri

    alright so on my 65 deville. the front p***enger wheel was locking up. i would go forward and it would be fine at first. then start to lock up and drag. so i replaced the cylinder as it was leaking(no fluid got on the shoes) and the hose. i had to use a mallet to get the drum back on. anyway when i first tested it worked great drove forward and reverse no issues, well an hour later its back to acting up. not dragging this time but its barely moving. any ideas to whats up? thanks guys also the master cylinder is new
     
  2. Shoe adjustment?
    No way a mallet should be needed to get the drum on
     
    Fender1325 likes this.
  3. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,585

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    was the adjuster spinning? was it turned all the way in?
    also check that there are not any grooves in the backing plate that are "hanging" the shoes up.
     
  4. Demitri
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 5

    Demitri

    the adjuster seemed like it was turned all the way in
     
  5. bobwop
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 6,135

    bobwop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Arley, AL

    sounds like a broken brake spring to me
     
  6. Fender1325
    Joined: Aug 31, 2014
    Posts: 729

    Fender1325

    From my understanding - with the wheel bolted up and the car jacked up, you should be able to, by hand, spin the wheel, and it make about one full rotation before it stops by itself. You should hear a very slight drag of the shoes. Adjust the star wheel until you get that one rotation with light drag.

    Make sure the wheel bearings are all greased up.

    Having to use a hammer to install the drum sounds like the shoes are adjusted outward too much.

    Also - you put on a new wheel cylinder but did you bleed all wheels when you did it and did you install a new brake hose off it? Sometimes they can look good but actually be collapsed inside. The fluid goes into the cylinder but cant be released, causing a drag. That was a problem with my 50 cad
     
  7. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    New MC? Check that you have some clearence on the MC pushrod. If power brakes a quick check is to insert a flatwasher between the MC and power unit. If that solves the prob pushrod is a bit too long.
     
  8. roundvalley
    Joined: Apr 10, 2005
    Posts: 1,776

    roundvalley
    Member

    Are there new shoes or old ones that have run for awhile?
     
  9. Demitri
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 5

    Demitri

    I did not bleed all the wheels but I did replace the hose
     
  10. Demitri
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 5

    Demitri

    They were put in about 10-15 years ago. But the car was in storage right after that and was taken out a few months back
     
  11. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,752

    bobss396
    Member

    With the drum off and the adjuster backed off, the brake shoes should be against the anchor at the top. Also make sure the shoes are on correctly (shorter length shoe material to the front) and that the springs are on right. With badly worn backing plates, shoes can get hung up on the backing plate, so take a close look at that.
     
    Fender1325 likes this.
  12. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 8,495

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Cads got dual circuit masters years before the rest of the industry. Lock up the wheel & crack open the bleeders on each circuit. Sounds like no free play ...
     

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