Projects Only 15 First Hot Rod Build

The end can not be changed, but may be able to adapt it to fit with fittings in one of the larger heater outlets if the line is long enough to reach. Photo of the water outlets on the manifold or will try to stop by sometime to see if we can help. Do you still have the fitting that went in the 6 cyl ?

 

If you still have the fitting that your probe screws into you can weld a pipe coupling into a piece of exhaust pipe that will fit in your upper radiator hose ......your doin great buddy!

 

Thanks for the advice. I was actually just given an old dodge cylinder head. It might have a fitting in it for the temp gauge. I think I'll probably just end up getting an electrical gauge anyway.

 

Sam. Hold off on the gauge for now. There are ways to use your old gauge that are reasonable easy to do. Talk to you soon. Bob

 

After calling up the local inspection station to make sure it was legal I started on making the side pipes!!! I'm sure the effect will wear off eventually but for now it's a quick and easy way to run the exhaust. This side needs a little more tire clearance but otherwise has good clearance.

 

I just got the welder set up with the c25 and ran a few beads. I love it!!!!! A hundred times easier to use than flux core. Still getting used to it but here's a picture of one of the welds.

 

Sounds like you've got the wire welding part pretty much under control. Now would probably be a good time to start looking for an oxy/acetylene rig for heat and gas welding. I'd bet there's about a million HAMB members who have an outgrown or rebuildable set of torches in their shop right now who'd be glad to make you a smokin' deal. Try the HAMB Want Ads first and see what happens. Don't hesitate to mention this thread in your want ad. Most HAMBers will bend over backwards to help a budding rodder. Good luck!

 

Eric. Is your avatar the A you had in Maine a half a century ago? Bob

 

Hi, Bob! No, I sold that one to John Shaunessy who unchanneled it and went on to build a really nice car out of it. This one is a coupester that I bought here in Texas just last fall. It was alive but on life support when I bought it and I'm using the winter to give it a whole bunch of "deferred maintenance" that it sorely needed and deserves. It'll be back prowling the streets in a couple of weeks if all goes well. Thanks for asking.

 

OK. Envious that you will be on the streets in a couple weeks. 6 below zero here now and 4 + feet of snow. Working on the 31 Chevy. 3rd rebuild in 49 years.
Bob
PS Sam. I will be emailing you.

 

What advantages does the oxy/acetylene have for welding over the MIG? I assume it would be a softer weld that would be easier to grind down when doing sheet metal. Being able to heat up metal as well as cut metal would be great. My dad wants to learn brazing so maybe I could get him to chip in on the oxy/acetylene rig.

 

Yes, the o/a welding (gas welding) is primarily for sheet metal work and, as you mention, heating the metal so that it forms easier. And yes, the o/a welds are softer and easier to grind, but the real advantage is when you want to hammer-weld a seam or hole.

Wire-weld beads are so hard that they are almost impossible to flatten with a hammer and dolly. Also, gas welding has the advantage of warming the metal around the weld making it easier to hammer/dolly the area into the desired shape before it cools and becomes stiff again. Until you've mastered it this can be both a blessing and a curse however. It's only too easy for a novice to warp panels with heat during the gas welding process.

So, some jobs call for a wire welder and some for a gas welder. It's up to the craftsman to select the best tool for the job and then to employ it with skill and experience. That's what building hot rods is all about.

 

One more reason I live in Texas! We whine when it falls below 32 degrees...but we pay for it in the summer.

Glad to see that you've taken Sam under your wing as a mentor. Setting an example is by far the best way to teach so I hope you've shown him your car while it's still in the process of reconstruction.

Your roadster was a mighty nice car back in the day so I'm sure it'll be extra nice this time around. Sam needs to see some really nice work if for no other reason than to know how high to set the bar for himself and his own project.

Stay warm!

 

So here is one design I came up with for a shifter. Hopefully my drawings aren't too hard to understand

 

Here's my dads design which is a lot simpler than mine. You just move the shifter to the side to change gears.

 

That would work. I have an auto floor shift from 70's GM (don't remember what model) that you can have. I'll try to remember to put it with the Mags.

 

Listen to dad. Simple is usually better. Easier to make, easier to use, easier to maintain

 

"Bench testing" the shifter.

 

What are you guys using for linkages? Do I need heim's joints to keep it from binding? Thanks

 

I got the linkage figured out and the shifter works pretty good. I was stumped on where to find a spring strong enough for the shifter until I remembered I had the s10 motor. I used a cut down valve spring which it turns out is just about right to tension the lever.

Also I mocked up the s10 m/c and booster and it fits with about a 1/2 inch of clearance between the column and hood hinge which means I don't have to fool around with 74 dodge master cylinders[emoji1]

 

Right now I'm mounting the mc and brake pedal. These are the templates for the pedal mount. They'll be reproduced out of 3/16 plate

 

I made up the mounts but it turns out I don't have a 9/16 drill bit so I'll have to wait on that. guess that means I might as well do some body work[emoji16]

 

Sam. If you want I'll bring a 9/16 bit tomorrow.
Bob

 

I'm just going to drop by lowes or Home Depot on the way home from the meeting.

 

Do yourself a favor and buy 2.

 

Bob let me borrow a 9/16 drill bit(thanks) and I finished the brAke pedal. It tended the flex the firewall a little so I'll as two more mounting points.
I also cut out some pieces for the floor which will get beads rolled in them at some point.

 

Here's a picture of an s10 tank Bob gave me a while ago mocked up. Can I run exhaust tubing to the upper left corner and through the frame so the filler hole can be in the stock location? I'm concerned there might be too long a section of pipe on the same level. Thanks for any help with the problem.

 

As long as the level area is low near the tank you will be ok. The fill vent will also need to be near the fill cap area.

 

The steering is mostly done
The exhaust is completely finished and I got more floor supports in. It's definitely getting closer!!!!!!

 

Keep up the good work, you are getting there.