1952-59 Ford my 4.6 dohc powered 57 Custom, aka, doing it the easy way

Thanks Rui. Sorry I don't have a video camera.
Just had a confirmation that all my hydoboost lines are hooked up correctly, so I can proceed with the bleeding of the system. Those guys at Pure Choice Motorsports are sure on top of things! As K5mog said, they also said more than likely it's a bleeding issue. JFYI...the Cavalier rack is in fact backwards from a Ford rack as far as the port sizes are concerned. On a Ford rack, the smaller port is the pressure, and on the Cavalier, the larger port is the pressure.

 

Tex, as my 3 year old grand daughter constantly tells me ''ahuu that's right''.

 

Zap...I hope the wife is keeping an eye on you so you don't lead those kids astray.
Update on the hydroboost overheating issue....apparently once again I spent alot of time resolving an issue I didn't have. With the first go-around of the bleeding, I got a 30 degree temp. drop at the hydroboost. After my lungs clear from all that exhaust, I'll start 'r up for another round.
Edit: The once again spending time resoving a non-issue......earlier this week I spent hours and hours trying to figure out why my fuel pump didin't have power to it with the key in the run position. I finally figured out the computer knows if the engine isn't running after the key is released from the start position and turns the power off to the pump. Then I remembered Ron Francis had a paragraph about how to byp*** the computer so you could power the fuel pump to bleed the lines.

 

I finished the bleeding and all is well. before the bleeding, the hydroboost after 2 minutes was at 147 degrees and rising fast. After the first bleed it went to 117, and after the last held at 84.
On to the next project...maybe fill and bleed the front brakes, then wire up the A/C.

 

Why is it nothing comes easy??....spent the entire afternoon trying to bleed the brakes. I got one of those pneumatic bleeders Jeff talked about on another post, seems to be working well..it's sure pulling the fluid thru, but the air just keeps coming. All my connections/lines/joints seem to be good, so I don't think it's ****ing air in anywhere. I'm looking into a posible issue with the master cylinder and/or my pushrod alignment. I get about 2" of no resistance pedal movement, then a hard stop.
The hydroboost/master was an (overpriced) salvage yard piece, so an unknown, but as I stated in an earlier post, I got the hydroboost working...the steering at least. The unit sat on my shelves for 4 or 5 years, btw.
K5mog...any similar problems with your recent install of the same? How did you bleed your system? The last thing I tried was bleeding the two up on the side of the master.
Any suggestions appreciated.

 

I pumped fluid from the calipers back to the master cylinder and still had to bleed the master cylinder separately. Hydro boost works differently and feels differently, it is somewhat a softer pedal. I wouldn't get concerned until I was sure there wasn't any air in the system, brakes and power steering.

 

"I pumped fluid from the calipers back to the master cylinder". How did you do that, may I ask? Also, is there any way my plugging the outlet for the back brakes at the proportioning valve could be affecting my not being able to bleed the system? I'm thinking not, but just going thru all the posibilities in my head...like also a posibility the master's plunger is frozen from sitting so long.
Also, did you bench bleed the master before you installed it? I thought I read somewhere these masters don't have a check valve, so a bench bleed is inneffective.
I sure appreciate your input, btw. thanks
Rich

 

The brake bleeder I have is hand pump will pump or pull fluid depending how you want to use it. I don't particularly like it, I think the best bet is a pressure bleeder, that you attach to the master cylinder.
Why don't you quit worrying about the hydroboost and just get your brakes working manually first. After a couple of pumps with the engine off thats all you have is manual brakes. Get or make a pressure bleeder and it's a one man operation. There several examples, for a pressure bleeder on the internet, just do a google search for pressure bleeder. When you are sure the brakes are bleed, press your brake pedal and start your engine. If you don't get a bump in the pedal when the engine starts it's not working. Then you either don't have the power steering bleed or the hydroboost is bad. If you don't see evidence of leakage any where on the boost it is most likely good. Same deal with mine, I didn't have everything bleed and bought another hydroboost when I didn't need too.

 

Thanks again...I have been using a va***n bleeder. I got the one Jeff recommended at Harbor Freight, on sale 30 bucks. Seems to work well.
Two more hours this morning, but it's finally come around. I guess I just needed to spend stupid amounts of time on it. I've got some pedal now, but I don't have it entirely bled. I'll give it a few more back and forths, then call it good enough until I can road test. I'm gonna try starting it with the brake depressed to see if I get that bump. My guess is everything is ok.

 

Brakes are bleed finally, and I did get the "bump"..so I'm good to go, or, er stop. Back to wiring.

 

Started wiring the Vintage Air today, didn't get too far. The trinary switch has one wire to be run to the A/C compressor, but my compressor has a plug in for a 2 wire connector. I checked my spare engine hoping one of the wires would be black and therefore ground,but the wires are purple and lt grey w/white stripe. I guess I'll call Vintage Air in the morning and see if I can get some info. In the meantime, I put some smiles on my face today. I mounted and wired my horns and added a grounding terminal up next to the core support for the grounds I'll be needing for horns, lights, etc. Anyway, I really didn't have alot of hope on my horns working because back a few years ago when I wired the steering column, the wiring instructions called to hook up to wires coming out of the steering column that weren't there, so I had to figure something out...don't even remember what I did now, but whatever it was worked because I have horns!
The other thing That tickled me to death was watching my windshield wipers working on the intermitent multi speeds, watching the hard-arm system I made to replace the cables and pulleys to work with the roundy-round motor and have the wiper arms move in oposite directions. That was a real kick, and I have to say I did giggle a little when I pushed the washer ****on and I heard that little pump running.
I know these sound like little things, but they sure are giving this old man some pride and joy.

 

Spent most of the day visiting with friends and cleaning up a drain pan full of ****** fluid I stepped into and tipped over. Hell, I've got one shiney shoe with a slight red tinge, lol.
I did get the trinary switch hooked up. The purple wire out of the A/C compressor is the one that gets hooked to the switch. The other wire is ground.

 

Looks like you may get to drive it before your 90th birthday... this is an incredible build.

 

Update. I fought thru the Vintage Air wiring directions, and with a few phone calls managed to get the wiring done. The instructions imho are not user friendly at all...more confusing than wiring the engine!
Anyways, I borrowed an A/C va***n pump system from a friend so I could run a check on my A/C lines. The first 5 minutes or so indicated no va***n pressure drop, so I'm hoping after a 1/2 hour it'll be the same and I can put some refrigerant/oil in the system and then check out my wiring. Really, mostly because of what I feel are inadequate instructions from Vintage Air for the do-it-yourselfer, this has been the hardest part of the whole wiring.
Update...45 minutes with no drop on the va***n. Yahoo!!
Update later than the last....no pressure drop after an hour. That means no chasing down a leaky fitting..yahoo!! I was also able to check out the A/C wiring from all the dash stuff to the compressor, and that is good to go as well. I completed getting the rest of the dash lights in working order as well. All in all a very good day!

 

Some pics of the dash lights. I need to get into the 3 knob A/C switch and getthe lights dimmed and the color changed to match the gages

 

I've either been too busy or it's been to cold to work much on the car. I did get my radio wired up though. I installed a marine radio because at the time they were the only ones I could find in other than black. When I ordered mine, it was suppose to be tan, but when I got it it actually was a non-matching grey. I decided to keep it as I had a use for it in my daily driver at the time. I went ahead an installed it in the '57, may change it out later as Kenwood has a marine radio in a satin silver now.
The one I put in is also a bluetooth...a nifty "new" tech thing we really got to liking in my wifes Camry. I'm next to deaf and the phone calls coming in on the radio speakers really help. Also, we've got cell phone driving laws in Amarillo...another reason to get bluetooth.
A really neat feature on the marine radios is the weather band. 24-7 local weather at the touch of a ****on. I wish I knew they had round radios now when I did my console...that would have been cool.
The normal sized marine radios are identical to car radios, but with additional features like the weather band. They are sealed internally from the weather as well, so good for roadsters and Harleys.

 

Not a whole lot to update on. I got the rest of the dash stuff wired up..radio speakers, 12v outlets, ets. I've been spending quite a bit of time trying to tidy up the wiring under the dash. It's really hard for me to get twisted around so I can get both arms up there, and can't stay that way for very long, so this is going to be a long haul. That's ok though, I'm in no hurry, and it will get done so it's nice and neat under there...no spaghetti. I've already unhooked a dozen wires and rerouted them for a cleaner install....the rest I've finished so far were just a matter of cable ties.
I've decided not to install my turn signal indicators in the hood scoop as planned, but add them to the dash panel. I reordered normal intensity LEDs for that as well as a power distribution box for the trunk. I had run a 10 gage power supply wire back to the trunk in case I forgot wires for something. I may end up with a power antenae and a power trunk release and trunk lights, so it looks like I'm going to need that distribution box. What I ordered was another Jetta/Golf/Audi box like the two I have in the engine compartment. I really like those boxes...glad I went that route.

 

Man,that interior is amazing..I like it a lot! HRP

 

update...finally got the wiring all tidy'd up under the dash. My 3rd power distribution box arrived, and I got it mounted in the trunk...all wired up for when I need it. I was having a few issues with the back lights. I had hazards, but only one tailight. The problem turned out to be the rubber trailer-hitch type connectors I used in the back. They are the type that squeeze the wire into a sharpened "V" so that it cuts thru the jacket to make contact with the copper. They normally work well, but my car is almost totally wired with premium gxl or sxl wiring which is double jacketed...and those wires don't work as well with those splice type connectors as the jacket is substantially tougher. Anyway, I had one wire that would lose contact if the wire was moved, so I dis***embled the housing and soldered the connections. Voila! Now I have both tailights working. Also I was able to confirm I had brake lights except I have the two feed wires crossed on one dual filament bulb, so the tailight is brighter than the brake light. I'll get that remedied when I get back from my Norman, Oklahoma/Fort Worth trip.
I thought I had an issue with the turn signals, but I didn't...the ignition switch just needs to be on. Also checked power to the third brake light switch, and that is good. I just need to do some work on the tailight before it's ready to mount (I'm using a '41 Chevy tailight/housing...a bullet shape).
What I posted above takes care of all issues I had with any of the wiring, I never would have thought I'd have so few problems.
I'm so glad spring is here. Tommorrow I'm driving to Norman, OK for a swap meet. After that I'll drive south to the Fort Worth area (with a stop or two at casinos for driving breaks) for the Goodguys show at the Texas Motor Speedway. I need to stop at Cl***ic Auto Parts in OKC on my way by for a few small things.

 

gotta have pics, right? BTW, that loop of wiring over the Telorvek panel will disapear after I finish the conversion from coil packs to COPs. Also the fuel pump/sender wire bundle running across the trunk will eventually be moved to under the trunk floor. I'll do that when I can have access to a lift. I don't like wires running under the ch***is, but I don't want them in the trunk area either.I'll make a hard conduit to house/protect them underneath.

 

You've been fooling us, your a pro, right?

 

my computer tech said if I do not stop reading your posts he will refuse to take my keyboard apart to clean and repair the damage caused from my slobbering on it from viewing your posts.my only option may be to do a google search for condoms for elephants as they may hopefully fit on keyboard as I am like a crack addict when it comes to viewing your posts on this build

 

Just got back from a pretty much rained-out Goodguys trip, and the swap meet in Norman was a bust, at least for me. 800 mile round trip, mostly in rain. Good thing I like to drive, and I did ok at the Casinos.
Thanks guys. It's always great to find someone who likes what you're doing. It's been a long project, that for a while I wasn't sure if I'd ever be able finish, but the end is in sight. Talking to a friend who does some pretty exotic builds, I was told it all sounds like it's going on the right track, but one never knows for sure until it can be test driven. That time is still a ways down the road, due to a distinct lack of money.
The first two pics I posted above are a bit confusing if you don't know what you are looking at. There are actually two items there. The distribution box on the left was mounted on the same bracket as the inertia switch.
One neat thing I got at the swap meet: I got a replica 1957 Texas inspection sticker. It's in the shape of Texas...pretty cool. The guy I got it from has all the older years for Texas.

 

what purpose does the round disc above the u joint serve?

 

You're reading my mind. I was too tired to do another post last night before I went to bed. I was going to ask if anybody knew how to center/rotate/position a steering wheel in it's proper alignment when the car is pointed straight ahead. My steering wheel is off and will have to be aligned after the car is on the road and a front end alignment has been done. That disc you are asking about may or may not have anything to do with that. It's on the back end of the '97 Mustang steering column I used. I looked at it when the unit was on my bench, but couldn't figure it out., steering wheel alignment was the only thing I could think of, unless it's the locking of the steering wheel when the key is out, but I don't think so. I'll have to find out pretty soon. I do have another column on my shelves I can look at some more, but it has a bad ignition switch, so not a whole lot of moving components around can be done on it.
That u-joint you referenced is the end of the oem Mustang components I used. Having the u-joint there sure made things alot easier to move the other end in the best position. That and the elimination of the death spear are two big advantages. Unfortunatly they are just going to look totally wrong and out of place in 99.99% of mid 50's cars. LOL...maybe 100%

 

I went out and started the engine up this morning and just realized I p***ed another electrical test. It's been 6 weeks since I first hooked up the battery. It never got a full charge, just what it comes with off the shelf. Anyway, that's 6 weeks and the battery is still strong with no significant time charging from the alternator running, so I think that is a good indication there are no unwanted draws on the electrical system.

 

too bad rod and custom mag is gone, looks like the perfect candidate, beautiful craftsmanship.

 

You guys are going to give me a fat head! Thanks again.

I got some feedback on the '57fordsforever forum. On cars so equipped, it sends a feedback to the computer telling it how fast the steering is being turned. Some cars are equipped with a computer controled variable pressure power steering pump.
I did get my tailight/brakelight wires switched to their correct location, so that is fixed and working as they should. I also confirmed my license plate light is working....I hadn't noticed previously.

 

On a different note: One thing that took forever to make a decision on was the location and selection of the side mirrors. One problem with our 50's Fords is getting the placement right so they don't interfere with the wing window. From what guys were posting about poor visability, I decided I wanted a fairly large mirror, and round just seemed to be the best for my car's lines imo. (Because of the front opening hood, I decided I wanted the mirrors on the door rather than the fenders). I found some really nice mirrors at Socal in Phoenix with a nice delicate shape to the riser, a large mirror, and having the riser actually at an outward angle to the base making it easier to leave room for the wing window. Only problem (there's always the inevitable, right?)....they had a bowtie embossed on them in a prominent location on the mirror head. I can't decide if my "fix" is ok, or tacky looking. The fix is not as prominent as they look in the pics
And a pic of the cool inspection sticker I found, and his busness card for any other Texas members.

 

opps...forgot one