Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

Poliform discontinued the touring body but still list the tubster and a stretched roadster body.
http://www.poli-form.com/Catalog/cat-body.html

 

The Poliform stock size 1927 roadster is roomyer then 23 t by a fair amount,but if still more room is needed in a T,I have for sale behind my garage a Poli. 27 roadster body only that has added 2in. deeper n 3in. wider by someone=lined up nicely but not painted,plus has opening trunk with rain gutters Op. all around inside,asking $600 frim btm line/come get it{cost someone $1400 that never finished body.
Fitting in a stock size 23 if your 6ft. like me ,can be done but takes carefull planning of all adjustible factors,floor high,seat,steering,pedals so you can still sit in an not one body.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/img_0756-jpg.1565904/
The point of this photo of my son's stock size 23 we built,is how deep into body the seat is n how steering wheel n pedals are set up,body at front is chaneled fully over frame,but at back{raked] not coving any of frame=so floor is at btm of body at rear giving good deep seat plus the nice rake

 

I'm taking a leaf out of Gary's book here (its called self promotion) havn't posted pics of my roadster lately and since I've just got a new camera and a new digital imaging software program I give you my T Tadaaa!

Roadster2 (1 Of 1) (Large) by k1w1rodder posted Mar 23, 2015 at 7:14 PM

Roadster4 (1 Of 1) by k1w1rodder posted Mar 23, 2015 at 7:12 PM

 

Poliform! That must have been it! Last night I was sure it was Wescott that used to make a fiberglass touring body. Nothing but fenders on their website though. Poliform's site confuses me though, they say the tourings been discontinued, but the tubster is still being made....but they show a pic of the same car for both body styles??!?!?!

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Class Glass in MD has one with an 8" stretch on their site:
http://www.classglassperformance.com/23 T.html

 

Hey Kiwi I like it and if you aren't going to promote yourself who is. Is that a quickchange? I don't usually like A grills on Ts but not so ban on a '26-27. Nice work. Question. Are disk brakes mandatory there? I just don't like them on fenderless cars and they are not needed on a light car.

 

I am in the process of "retro-fying" an older build roadster, but I'm going to leave the 4-wheel disc brakes in place. And no, I'm not going to cover 'em up with the funky-looking covers that the street rodders are using. They'll be painted black but will still be out on the ends of the axle for all the world to see...if they even care. The car stops really well and discs require zero maintenance, both of which I like a lot.

My new build? Now that's another story. It'll have F-1 front drums and F-100 rear drums, which I expect will stop the new car just dandy and look far more "period correct" than the discs. But...if I planned to drive the car fast, load it heavy or lived in the hills the new one would get discs too, period-correct or not. But then, I'm a form-follows-function kinda guy.

 

Sorry guys
I know I said I wouldn't criticize rides again but I just can't help myself. I just don't like disk brakes or independent front suspension of fenderless rods. Dad I hate to argue (no I don't) but Brakes designed in the '50s and '60s to stop a four, five or six thousand pound car will have no trouble stopping a two thousand pound car under any circumstance. Buick fined aluminum are just beautiful and will stop anything.
Gary

 

As actor Patrick Swayze (who came from my own California town of Simi Valley, by the way...) said in the movie Roadhouse, "Opinions vary."

Yours might be different if you'd ever been in a brake fade situation during a mountain cruise in a hot rod where your only choices were to wreck your own ride or wreck somebody else's. Been there, done that and, thank God, survived.

 

Wow Dad glad your alright. You are right I have never been in that situation with my roadster or even my Cad. powered '48 Ford moordoor both with early Ford brakes. Do you downshift on long downhills.

 

Nah, man, and neither does anybody else unless they know the road well. We habitually rely on our brakes to stop us no matter what...and even more so now that most of us drive late models most of the time. The brakes on modern cars can be abused to the point that the rotors are red hot and they will still stop. Not so much on drum brakes...especially if they are imballanced (as most homebuilt hot rod brakes are) or improperly maintained.

Brake fade sneaks up on ya'. The pedal gets a little hard...and then they're gone. Once you realize you've lost your brakes it's usually too late to do anything about it. Downshifting might help, but many hot rod converters negate compression braking to the point that you might slow down a little...maybe, maybe not.

Perhaps you are a much more aware driver than I am, but the best I could do to avoid plowing into the back of NSRA's Jerry Johnson's shiny new roadster pickup was to take to the ditch. I was very lucky, but the steering wheel of my car was bent from pulling up on it while I had both feet on the brake pedal trying to get that beast to stop. Phew!

Nope, I'll never risk being under-braked again. If the new car won't perform the way I want it to in a high speed total panic (non-modulated) stop I'll pitch those F-1 brakes into the bushes behind the shop and go shopping for some nice, big discs...regardless of what anybody else may think.

 

longer or longer and wider http://www.corbinrods.com/1923_t_bucket.html

 

"Nobody else does" I do! Yes I think ahead and remember I am driving an old car. And whatever I do to it my and all other T bucket's will be old and unsafe cars and need to be driven with care. I still can't imagine a 2,000 lb car with brakes made for a 5,000 lb car fading. But if you say so.

 

I guess there's just nothing else for me to add.

 

Stock size 23 T-roadster ,This photo is of my son[5'11"] doing our many test fittings years ago,with what I {6'] thought was too thick, a bottom seat pad of 5in rear to 8in. front,back pad being 4in.thick of softer foam n there angles are very much part of how feel n fit are combind with look,he like more pad vs I was comephy with 2in. less that also so sat lower,he won,its his hotrod.

 

Yes guys if you put disk brakes on the front of your buckets you can drive them a fast and crazy as you want to and you will be safe as in a new Volvo.

 

Nice looking bucket Dana. I really like how the steering column angle follows the windshield angle and those two angles follow the curve of the back of the body.
Perfect.
Not sure if you said but you could take a couple of inches out of the backrest. I find myself leaning forward in mine anyway.
I actually thought of putting a beer keg on mine early. I even had one in about the same shape.

 

That was uncalled for.

 

He's not saying that - personal experience SHOULD dictate how you move forward, i.e. learning from mistakes or mishaps.
As this thread is talking mostly about early/mid 60's T Buckets, keep in mind that early disc brakes were used in that timeframe on hotrods, including T buckets. You're the one with the self-admitted late 50's T - if you don't want discs on yours because they are not "correct" that's fine - don't tell everyone else it's not appropriate for a (slightly) later model build because it is.

Steve

 

As for brakes on my own hotrods,I been using all drum for 55 years,but most all of them are close to max 2000lb. or less so work just fine. For my son's rod an a few others I helped with we did 4w disk. We got pretty flat land in Florida but****hole drivers every were.

 

I have only had brake fad on my 37 Willys (dead stock) and that was due to lack of maintenance on my part. My 26 T has 48 Ford brakes on both ends and these will be kept in high adjustment. Everyone has different reasons etc for what they do with their cars and its good to see safety being taken seriously.
Jeremy

 

I'm sorry guys but I just can't be convinced that mid '60s Buick brakes aren't more that adequate on a 2,000 lb bucket. I mention the Buick brakes because they are the best drum brakes to put on a bucket for someone that is worried about stopping and still want to have something "traditional." You can put whatever brakes on your buckets you want to as far as I am concerned but don't call disk brakes traditional and try to convince yourself you can't find drum brakes that are safe.

 

From 1956:

 

Nitro
Are you trying to convince me or yourself that disk brakes were traditionally on mid '60s and earlier rods or that maybe a few had them? And even then they were ugly! And still are on an open wheel car.
Gary

 

I'm saying you have an incorrect worldview and your self-inflicted blinders aren't allowing you to have an accurate opinion. In other words, your opinions are far too rigid and limited.

 

I'm also saying that it's getting to the point where we should agree to disagree and leave the drama to the network writers.

 

Whoa! I didn't think a couple of photos would start a sh*t storm. Gary the discs are there cause it was like that when I bought the unfinished project I started with. I didn't have the ware-with-all to replace them. In saying that down here in the lower forty most T buckets were built with discs going right back into the sixties. Also with our cert system any brake fade during testing is an automatic fail. I certainly like the feeling that you can stop on a dime from almost any speed. So we will have to agree to disagree

 

Okay brother. Love ya man!

 

Now look what you have done,I hate disc brakes on period cars also.

 

This is one heck of a technical thread guys. Please agree to disagree. If a***** storm starts this thread will be gone.