Technical SBC, still doesn't start

I know this seems like a smart *** answer but have you tried cranking the eng. with the cap off and verifying that the dist is actually spinning and no shot cam gear timing chain or something like that. Don't want to insult you but weirder things have happened. YRUHOT

 

Not the problem here though, bro.
Oh, and the plugs have to match the heads too. In this case (a 283),
big plug, R45S.

Carry on...

 

Also had a lady friend in the hospital and she had a 305 chevy that was supposed to be getting fired up every couple of days. Very week spark at plugs almost none. It was so flooded cause of short starts in the cold and never coming up to operating temp. Sounds crazy to me also but was there. Pull all the plugs crank over every now and then and dry out cylinders. Then fired up crazy but whenit did it blew black some like you wouldn't believe. Ran good after that.

 

Oh yeah, my bad on the heads.
Sorry

 

Just looking back at original pic of distributor that Art showed. Did the module spade connectors miss going into the plastic connector?? Looks like they may be laying on top?

 

Rfraze , I'm NOT running that dissy. The purpose of the pic is that it DOES have a condenser.

 

31 Vicky w a hemi's right, Actually it's a noise suppressor to keep the pop n crackling out of the radio in hei rigs Early "RFI" stuff. Man I hope you get that thing to running, don't give up n if even the new plugs have been wet down their prob toast. Just had sold a set to a customer that wanted to try his own ideas first, he said they're new, but we're gas fouled n dead. Good luck man! Flux

 

Maybe you have already checked all this, but anyway..........

All of these distributors, and I have had a number of them over the years, has the four screws holding the coil into the cap. 2 just go into the plastic of the cap. A 3rd screw has a wire coming from inside the coil which is actually a tap on the windings, and is connected under it. The 4th has a wire which goes to the center connection of the 3 wire plug to the cap to provide grounding between the coil & the distributor body.

If you have byp***ed the connection between the coil tap and the dist body & module, it might affect the spark strength.

 

Please update when you find what the issue is. I've been following along and learning a lot should I ever convert to HEI system in a older vehicle.

 

For informational purposes:

A good example of bad grounds in the cap.

 

Fresh oil, new filter, fresh plugs, R45 s @.045. TDC, plug wires on, and the battery charging. I will have an update tonight.

I will NOT be using the ignition switch,

OldBuzzatd, I think I only have one wire that is held down by a screw that holds down the city
Coil.

 

That middle wire coming out of the coil is the other end of the high voltage winding. If not grounded it will try to apply 50,000 volts to anywhere it sees a possible ground. It needs to be grounded to the frame of the coil in one of the corners that holds it to the cap.

Another corner is supposed to have a wire held down by another screw & that wire is one of the 3 of the connector wires that go to the connector on the cap, thru the connector and down to the distributor body.. It is the center one, it is heavier gauge than the other 2.

That center wire goes into the distributor and is connected to a ground lug. Your module must be firmly attached to the plate because it too has to have a good ground. The whole system is heavily dependent on a good ground system. The rest of it depends on grounding through the distributor body, make sure the clamping surfaces are clean & rust free.

 

What did you do with the netural safty switch wire leave them in open circut?????? or are they out of the loop with the rewiring job???

 

Old ****** didn't have one.

 

OldBuzzard, you might be on to something. I cleaned the clamping surface and ground wire, where it attaches, engine and frame. I will check all other grounds.

I have seen some stock HEIs, that have a wire that screws on to the body. But only the one with out the mechanical advance.

Or should they all have that?

 

The grounding I am talking about starts on the coil up in the cap with a wire coming out of the windings. Colors can vary but the wire you want should have a lug on it that will reach to a hole in the coil framework to put a coil mounting screw in. The connection has to be continuous from the wire coming out of the coil, out thru the cap connector & down into the distributor body & going to the ground lug inside the distributor. It will be the middle wire in the cap connector.

"I have seen some stock HEIs, that have a wire that screws on to the body. But only the one with out the mechanical advance. "

I have never seen this kind of distributor have a wire to the body. Nor any GM distributor. Ford &/or Chrysler might do that. Don't apply anything they do to GM. They are different HEI animals.

If it doesn't have a vacuum advance connection the distributor more than likely needs a computer to run it. You don't want one of those.

What year & kind of vehicle did the HEI distributor you have come out of???? The picture in POST#114 shows a vacuum advance can on it. That distributor should be what you want. Also, it has what looks like a piece of copper wire near the top. Or is that a light reflection???

 

I wonder if you have good clean ground to block.when you tested with light did you connect to battery or engine block.using battery would have allowed ground.you can never have enough ground to engine block or body frame any where you need.my 2 cents

 

Hate to say this but I was at swap meet yesterday and guys were selling new billed hei distributors for 50 bucks with warranty. Sure they are not usa made but it could solve alot of headaches and guessing. I put one in a 71 monte I'm flipping and it was night and day difference in how it ran. It went right in and started right up. You can even get them off that auction site for 100 shipped w wires. Most come with a 3 year warranty also. It almost doesn't make sense to start w a used one anymore

 

Why hate to say it?
It is what it is, cheap enough to swap them out like tune up parts.

 

HEI with the ground wire, from late 80s El Camino.

 

@54vicky, I cleaned and wire brushed to the metal on the ground wire I added to the block. I grounded light to the block.

 

If the distributor you are using is late '80's it is probably computer controlled. Can you show the whole top so we can see the module??

GM started computer stuff in 1980 or '81.

 

Byp***ing the IGN switch and harness. With a jumper from the battery to the coil and a remote starter, I now have spark. SWEET!

It seams like it's about to start.
I sprayed starter fluid in the carb and its about to start running, but when I give it gas, it just keeps turning over, and doesn't start.

I have the idle mixture screws all in, and then two full turns out. Before I flood this thing, is there something I should do different?

 

Idle mix screws don't come into play, unless the ****erflys are at idle position...

Wish we could hear it turning over. Some of the people here can tell, just by sound, if it's low compression, or if the timing needs bumping...or if it spins fast enough in case it is low compression.

I would avoid pouring gas down the carb at this point. In case the rings are washed.

A couple squirts from the accel pump, then keep the choke somewhat closed, with 1/4" gap or so.

Some tired motors, or washed cylinders, can start better with throttle barely open. If the carb is full throttle, it can make it worse....especially with too much gas

 

Don't just keep spraying and cranking.
If it don't fire with one spray of staring fluid it won't start with 50.
Something is off and adjustment is required, and it's not more starting fluid

 

This picture of your plug wires-



Doesn't appear to match this FSM that you said you were using.


If your rotor is set to point @ #2 cylinder with # 1 at tdc on compression, as you said, then those wires are wrong

 

The previous transmission did not have a neutral switch.@ RoadAngel

OldBuzzard, the pics in #114 is what I'm running, like it says in the post.

F&J, Don't idle screws need to be set at a certain position after a kit is put in?

I'm NOT spraying and cranking with out making ANY changes in between. I'm adjusting the distributor, just in case it's a little bit off. And I'm NOT spraying every single time I crank the engine over. I wouldn't consider starter fluid an adjustment. I posted the the photos in post #114 to show what I'm working with only.

Anyway, the truck is now running, but needs the carburetor adjusted. I suppose it was a grounding issue, but wont be sure until the IGN switch and what if left of the harness, is added to the mix. Also, the pulley mark is OFF, apparently those pulleys are known to, "spin"? Anyone else heard of that? I started the truck without ANY air and vacuum lines connected. The way it was before, was with the vacuum advance to the carburetor, right under the main supply line from the fuel pump. The shop book says it should go to the manifold. I believe that big*** hose from the block to the carb, is some kind of breather hose. And the line from the 400 trans, is going to the back part carb. If they're wrong, I'm all ears.

I'll post pics.

 

The pic I promised.

 

The big hose should go to a positive crankcase ventilation valve. Not having it connected or plugged will result in a big vacuum leak and a lean condition.

 

My answer was was about how accurate the mixture screws needed adjusting when trying to start this problem child.

Yes, they do need proper adjustment when it is running good and warmed up completely.

Get the timing the best you can if your mark has moved. Then get the idle speed at a smooth 700 to 800...no tach? just a normal idle speed on any old car. Then turn one screw in slowly to find where it starts to slow the idle down. Then do the other screw.

Most shops set the screws to lose 25 rpm under the "best setting". Most of us use best setting, but not any further out.



Picture I think, it shows a idle mixture spring laying under the carb? Not sure