http://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1972-F...ar:1956|Make:Ford&hash=item4d2c580ad1&vxp=mtr It seems like a good deal, but I was wondering if anyone on the site is using this current setup in their car. I have a 55 Ford Fairlane - was this a pretty straightforward install? How did the unit hold up?
The 8" booster is great but I would prefer a ford master cylinder instead of the GM style that is shown. Also on one of the pictures it shows the pedal connects directly to the booster and on another picture it shows a teater totter type which would be the one to use. It gives you more action at the booster with less pedal pressure. Dave
How about an original Ford unit from the same years as the Ebay listing? There not that hard to find, I personally have 3 them hanging in the ba*****t. According to my measurements it will bolt on without modification. Here is an overpriced unit listed on Ebay, I personally think that they are better looking than the aftermarket boosters. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-1961-1...unt-/321714206770?hash=item4ae7a93832&vxp=mtr
Dan's original post's ebay listing..... That look awefully small for an 8" booster..I'd be more inclined to think it's actually a 7", but what do I know?
The booster bracket puts the master about 1/2 way out to the radiator. I like to use Ford parts from Rock Auto or other parts houses. You know it's a Ford item and what it was designed for. Stock boosters were also ****ed up tighter to the firewall.
Ok fellas gotcha on the advice... how about a 67 or 8 Mustang Master Cylinder with Booster? anyone use that? Ford's 55/56 offering for power brakes is a very different set up, plus I want a dual master cylinder.
you're not kidding on overpriced, would cost a pretty penny not only to have it rebuilt but o make it look halfway decent.
I would look to go later with the Mustang parts, 1970-1973. The older Stangs used 4-piston calipers and the masters were specific only to those. The earlier one may work, but I prefer to ward off evil spirits when I put something together.
I have looked at the stock offerings from 60s Mustangs, 70s Mustangs, and some 60s Ford p***enger cars. The issue with mounting seems to be that the original 55/56 Ford cars are very different in their setup with mounting. Bolts are used to mount the master cylinder to the firewall, and the bolts go into weld nuts that are located on the bracket that holds the pedal arms. Kind of serves a dual purpose to keep the master cylinder mounted firmly AND to keep that bracket/dash connected to the firewall securely. The later model FORDS all seem to have Studs on their booster that go through the firewall, with the idea being simply that each stud takes a nut to keep it secure to the firewall. The later model Master Cylinders work because they have two holes on either side that MATCH the lower two holes on the firewall where the 55/56 Master Cylinder is secured to the firewall. Point being, I am not going to be able to find anything that tucks in to the firewall closely without modifiying that bracket at the very least, which I am willing to do. However, what about the 4 studs that secure the booster to the firewall? Does anyone know if they match up or this going to be a hole drilling thing to make swiss cheese of my firewall? Maybe I should see if the local parts store has a booster, take it home and size it up and then return it. This one looks good to me... http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-70...NEW-/221733064598?hash=item33a0520f96&vxp=mtr
This is one of the reasons why I chose manual brakes on my '59. The power booster would add another dimension of difficulty to the swap. The original master had 4 bolts, the Speedway master used the 2 bottom bolts. I nut & bolted the 2 upper ones to secure the bracket. Look at the booster in the parts store, make up a template and see where the holes fall out. Make the pattern central to the rod and transfer that to your fire wall.
I can't speak to whether you should go Ford vs. Chevy or Mustang vs. something else, but if you want something that bolts right on and works I have a used setup that I want to sell. I just haven't had time to make up an ad yet. I bought everything from Master Power Brakes - master cylinder, 8" dual-diaphragm booster, and combination valve - and ran it on my '54 for a while. I am converting to a Wilwood/hydroboost setup and don't need the MP Brakes kit anymore. I can even throw in the hard lines I bent up that tie the combo valve into the existing Ford brake lines if you want. If you're interested, let me know. There are certainly more expensive and possibly better ways to go, but the MP unit worked great for me and I didn't have to modify the firewall or anything else. -Eric
Here's the kit on the MP website: http://www.mpbrakes.com/1955-ford-customline-booster-master-combo-kit-bm1502. I checked and the '54-'56 are the same. If you're not interested, sorry to interrupt the thread.
That looks just like the unit I was considering on eBay for about $150 or so... The issue is that these units bring the booster and master cylinder out from the firewall. My problem is whether or not my larger exhaust manifolds are going to be in the way. We are going to run a 292 Y block with the 57 Ford Exhaust Manifolds. What engine did you have in your vehicle and what exhaust manifold/header did you run? (It obviously did not get in your way). And yes I am interested.
Well, it probably won't help you much but I know for sure that it clears a small-block Chevy and an LS1. It comes out from the firewall but it's up pretty high. There are plenty of pictures of this setup in my build thread: http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/thre...uild-thread-aka-doing-it-the-hard-way.902648/
Danman55, send me a PM if you want to talk turkey about the brakes. If not, I'll put an ad up on the main board. Thanks.
Thanks - still thinking all this over and getting to work on several other items. Go ahead and post it on the main board for now. I really don't know which way I am headed.
More research and now more questions... when I go to the dual master cylinder, whether power or not, will I also need a metering valve and then 3 residual valves for the lines (2 up front, 1 for the rear). I am running original drums and wheel cylinders all the way around
No,you do not need to add any additional valves.Go to the Sticky FAQ and watch the youtube video and it will walk you through the whole thing and all the part numbers are listed for you as well.
I have a 55 Meteor that I put 69 Granada disc brakes on. I used a 70 Torino powerbrake booster set up and it bolted right on. I believe it is a 9" double diaphragm set-up. I think 67-71 Fairlane/Torino are the same. I paid $40 for mine used but good.
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