I wouldn't want an axle under my car that I had to worry about hurting, just by jacking it up... is that better?
LOL I know Jack and I would not want him under my differential. I have read the entire thread even the BS that I threw out there and I am not changing the way that I do things. Stuff the jack under there where ever it fits and git er done.
A 1963 Pontiac Tempest, 326" with an automatic 2 speed transaxle met it demise that my dad owned for a brief time back in the mid 60's He drove it into the local Goodyear dealer for new tires. The fellow working the tire change slid his big iron rolling jack under the rear transaxle and put it up high enough to get the rear tires dangling in the air. Next...............poof! The jack saddle punched a hole right through the rear-end. The Goodyear dealer did make good on it though and replaced the rear transaxle gratis. Stuff happens!
I was going to mention earlier that maybe I wouldn't want to jack on a VDub or 'Vair diff. Freshen my memory, weren't the Tempests aluminum?
Yes, something tells me in my few remaining memory cells that the Tempest rear end was aluminum or a combo of aluminum and iron.
I have no doubt one could measure some "deflection" in the axle housing when using this method of jacking up the car. However, I do doubt that it exceeds the elasticity of the housing and therefore no permanent damage is likely done. Especially so with the drop out style rear axle assemblies, such as 8"/9" Ford and 8 3/4" Mopar. The integral housing versions definitely have some flex in the housing, as it is correct practice to use a housing spreader tool when servicing the gears and/or bearings. That movement though, is more easily accommodated by the open rear of the housing, whereas, I think the housing is more rigid in the verticle plane when the weight is centered on the jack pad. Ray
All I can say on this one is that I have noticed that the local Les Schwab tire store uses two jacks to lift the rear or front of any rig they are changing tires on that they don't use the under car lift to raise up. I thought it was so the rig was more stable on the jacks than on a single jack but the idea of tweaking the axle does make sense after reading this thread.
Early Tempests used Corvair differentials. I've lifted many, many Beetles under the rear end and never had an issue.
I have jacked up plenty of VWs using a floor jack. Not under the transaxle, under the chassis. You can tear the rubber mounts lifting the transaxle.
Don't tell anyone but I've been doing it wrong for at least 50 years!,but I live dangerously from time to time,I've pulled tags off mattresses, drove cars with radials past their prime,ate a big meal and go swimming as soon as the last bite,I didn't wait that mandatory hour. HRP
The exploder 8.8 has 3.25 OD x 0.25" wall tubes and the big 31 spline axles. Pretty stout if you ask me. They are heavy too, I haven't weighed one but they just feel so much heavier. I really like the 8.8 for its versatility and the swapageability of parts and gears. The exploders narrow very easily too. Steep gears and posi traction in almost every one of them. Now the pisser is that almost every aftermarket bracket is set for a smaller OD than the 3.25 so you'll be making some & modifying others. At that point welding the tubes is about as much trouble as tying your shoe.
This rig has a stock 4.0, which makes 220-lb.ft. of torque, has 2.47:1 first gear, a transfer case (Atlas IV) with a 10.34:1 low range, and 4.88:1 gears in the pumpkin. Not counting torque multiplication from the converter, that is a potential multiplied torque of 27,419.53-lb-ft. applied through a ARB Air Locker, to its 36" tires. If you think you rod is putting more stress on its 8.8 than this, I want to see it.
only rears we used spreaders on were Danas and that was after you put the shim packs in place for the bearing preload as they didn't use a threaded end nut like the others , and if the rear was older some times you didn't need it .
we were lucky enough we didn't have a jack that could reach the transaxle assy so we used the jacking spot but had to put a chunk of wood on the jack to prevent crushing the body , and if I didn't have a jack 3 of my buddys could lift it high enough to put the body on blocks , but that often meant a bumper readjustment as it would pull it out of wack .
I like to know what year your finding a thick tube explorer axle , as the ones I have worked on were all thin tube last one I cut was a 2002 unit as for 3.25 brackets most of the real Racing Manufactuers make them ( ART , Jerry Hass , Mittler Bros, RJ ) the volume places ( S&w, comp engineering , ect) make them for the 3.00 or 2.75 axle OD for the common light duty cars that most people drive .
Perhaps you meant "Dana style".......but that's is what I was referring to in my post. Perhaps you did use the spreader tool designed specifically for that purpose, but I'll wager pry bars figured into the picture. Without the housing squeezing the carrier bearings, there would be no preload. I worked on a lot if VWs in the '60s and '70s and always jacked the rear by placing the floor Jack lift pad under the center spine on the floor pan, just forward of the forward trans mount. Worked like charm and didn't do any damage. Stimpy, you seem out of sorts.....didn't sleep much, huh? Hope morning brings a better day! Ray
yea Dana specific , I worked in a shop with proper tools as we did some of the bigger 5 tonners and lots of 44 and 60's for the 4 wheel crowd and the mechanics made the boss buy them ( also to keep the injuries down too ) I have seen some guys use the prybar method and one use a rose bud to heat expand a case . I wish I had a jack that reached the center but being I was in H.S. when I had my bufg I had to use only what dad had around and it was a old short Hein Walker one , the jack could lift the whole car if I could get it under it . . didn't mean to sound like I am cranky ... plenty of sleep , hard for me not to sound harsh at times on the net , easier when I talk in person ..
I'm pretty sure they were from the late 90s. Here on the Hamb Im refering to hotrod type brackets, for instance Pete & Jakes or SoCal won't go to 3.25 tubes. Spring hangers, ladder bar brackets, and the like. At least I couldn't find them, but I enjoy making that stuff anyway.
In 1996 I bought a new Ford F150 and the rear end had two plug welds holding each axle tube to the third member. I was working on it changing the gear oil and noticed that there was only 1 plug weld on the driver side of the third member. I could see how jacking under the third member on one of these rear ends could cause problems...maybe a permanent drift of one of the axle tubes. I could not see there being a problem with the a rear end that is more solid like a 9" or even an old Ford Banjo. One thing to remember when reading dumb tags, signs and warnings: they usually are in response to something that has actually happened.
Like many of you, I too have been doing it "wrong" for over 50 years. I have a 2004 BMW 330 CI. The first time I installed snow tires, I simply slid my 50 year old floor jack under the diff and changed the tires. Later I saw in the owners manual that this is a "Nein-Nein". This car has rear IRS, therefore no axle tubes. I had always done it this way, IRS or not. Maybe the mounting brackets are not designed to lift the weight of the car, which is unlikely, or maybe it's just a liability thing.
Not take a look on the companies sites I listed for the 3.25 stuff , I find alot of the brackets are compatable some isn't , mine is often reverse I have to find Uneven 4 link brackets with a certain radius distance to make it ( suspension) work right , as for the tubes on the explorer most of the units I have cut were the v-6 powered ones ( v-8s are hard to find around here ) , I am wondering if the v-8 s used a different tube thickness , I have run into thick and thin tubes on Crown vics , the thick tubes were PI's , the center sections were the same on those 2 vehicles ( EXP-C-V ), the moostang axle assy is totally different as the center section is the mount for the upper control arms like a Chevelle and that controls the housing rotation , as the CV is controlled on the ends by the wheel ( 4 link )
"I wouldn't want an axle under my car [that] I had to worry about hurting just by jacking it up..." Does that help?
Well, to be current, "I wouldn't want a wedding cake I had to worry about just by ordering it by a hater baker!"
@clem I am not sure that one should admit on a public forum to not having a clue. That said just in case this is hasn't got a clue anonymous "Hello I am the Pork n Beaner [accept no substitute] and I haven't got a clue. I have been reading the HAMB for a very long time and countless hours have been consumed in my quest and I have reached a conclusion, 'reading the HAMB is not a cure for not having a clue'" At the risk of being seriously reprimanded I have to say this, Mike that is just gay. And just to be archaic let me say this, Friends don't let friends drive Fords.
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