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Projects 1938 Chevy Pickup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jashawa9485, Jun 10, 2015.

  1. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Just started my project, a 1938 Chevrolet Pickup. I don't have a lot of information on it and can't seem to find anyone who has one locally (small town). So, it looks like past owners have done some work on it and it is in a lot of pieces.

    Is there anyone on here who owns one as well? I could use some help identifying some of the pieces I have and just general information. Right now I am just taking rust off and trying to find a complete engine/transmission combo to start getting it going.

    Thanks!
     
  2. wingedexpress
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 893

    wingedexpress

    My wife has one, ill be happy help. stovebolt.com is a great place to look for help on old chevy trucks.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
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  3. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Hey, awesome truck! Looks like yours came together well. What all have you done to it?

    The big problem with mine is that I have many parts off the truck. I keep looking at places and wonder what is supposed to go there haha. Also it looks like previous owners have done some things that seem strange.

    I'll snap some pictures for you, thanks.
     
  4. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    So this is one of the things I've noticed while working on the floorboards. There are some rubber shims where the cab meets the rail. Honestly, they look like a couple pieces of tire stacked on top of eachother. To me it looks like this throws everything out of alignment, there's even a broken weld in the picture... Is there supposed to be some kind of rubber mount there or is this something weird a previous owner did?
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Hey bud you need to back light things when you take pictures!!!
     
  6. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    OK, I'll snap some better ones. Maybe I'll see if my phone can circle the area too.
     
  7. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Here's some with the flash and a little circle on the rubber shims. So yeah, this is the area the cab mounts to the frame, about 6" where your feet sit. These look like pieces of tire stuck on there, possibly throwing everything out of alignment. Is there supposed to be some kind of rubber there?
     

    Attached Files:

  8. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,582

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    there should be a thinner piece of rubber or frame welting there. the three screws should go through a hunk of wood to cushion the connection of the rear floor and the cowl section. the rear of the cab should have springs under the heads of the mounting bolts to allow the body to move if the frame gets distorted over rugged terrain while hauling a load. not as critical as a hot rod.
     
  9. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Thanks so much for the info. I will start looking for a thinner piece of rubber to replace that.

    I went through my parts boxes and couldn't find any springs. Checking around, I can't seem to find any online. You said it should be fine without them?
     
  10. bubba55
    Joined: Feb 27, 2011
    Posts: 517

    bubba55
    Member

    Try Jim Carter - I bought a cab mounting kit that has all the hardware - except the webbing / mat - looking at your pics the cab seems high - it should sit flush on frame with the wood / block recessed in cab - the kit has galvanized bolts - might want to go SS - there's other sites as well as doing search on the Hamb - lots of good info and help - don't be shy about asking questions - this is the best site I've found on the internet !! - I've got two '38's that I've tore apart and am now starting to put back together my truck - Good luck ! Feel free to PM me I'll be glad to help you out as much as I can.
     
  11. wingedexpress
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 893

    wingedexpress

    Like they said get rid of the rubber spacers and use something thin. I use webbing from an old ratchet strap. You will have wood blocks under the cab on the 4 bolts in the back . two under the front of the seat and two behind. those bolts have to have the springs on the bolts
     
  12. TFoch
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 2,387

    TFoch
    Member

    Here's one I saw at a local show. Good luck with your project! 38 Chevy Pickup 01.jpg
     
  13. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,582

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    on the truck i hot rodded, i welded the floor in solid including the "joint" you show in the photo. i still put springs in the back but they were shorter.
    on my daily driver '39 gmc i had welded the joint up, but not the floor. i use this truck to haul and have left the scales with over a ton of gravel. i also move firewood/soil around the yard with the springs arched the wrong way. i broke that joint do to the twisting of the frame .
    i will try to find some photos of the floorboards.
     
  14. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Thanks guys, this is a huge help! Was completely stumped about how this was supposed to go together. I will order those pieces from Jim Carter today.

    You know I hadn't even looked at how the rear cab was mounted yet. Taking a look at it... Its's just sitting on the frame. Looks like I will have to get the whole kit to do it right. No wonder everything looked aligned strangely.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1434041317.370220.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1434041337.229975.jpg
     
  15. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,582

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    the rear mounts are a steel tube with a rubber bushing through it, the bolt comes in from the top after p***ing through a spring and washer then it gets a castle nut and cotter pin. this allows the body to lift off the ch***is if/when the frame twists. the back of the cab will sit close to the frame.
     
  16. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

  17. themoose
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 9,720

    themoose
    Member

  18. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Hey thanks for those. That gets me some dimensions I was hoping to have. I did notice that my frame seems to be different on some of the cross members than the original.

    I'm guessing one is for putting in a turbo 350 since one came with the truck, but not installed. What's the best way to tell if they already converted it for a turbo 350?
     
  19. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Looks like the Engine Rear Support and Second Crossmember have been removed to put this one on. It sits slightly forward of the seat.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1434053626.795229.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1434053669.129849.jpg
     
  20. themoose
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 9,720

    themoose
    Member

    I guess you would have to start measuring to see where thing might fall. usually the TH350 has a mount with two holes but there is one available that utilizes only one..
    GM part 22188145
    [​IMG]
     
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  21. K13
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,718

    K13
    Member

    That's the original crossmember just hacked up and added to.
     
  22. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Damn, it looked like it was further forward. Did some rough measurements and it looks like it will be about 5-7" too far forward of where it needs to be to mount my transmission.

    I say rough because the engine is almost just sitting in the bay on one mount, so it's hard to get an exact measurement.
     
  23. K13
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,718

    K13
    Member

    Do you have the original engine transmission and closed drive line from the truck or is it out of something else? The transmissions on these were super short. I put a newer 235 in mine with a saginaw and had to take that cross member out and add a new one as it was unusable where it was.
     
  24. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    I don't have the original engine or transmission. It came with a kind of stripped 350 sbc that is bolted on and held up with a 2x4 board. [emoji19]

    There's a turbo 350 transmission that came with the truck, but was just sitting in the bed. I was trying to measure off of it to see if the transmission will bolt up, but doesn't look good.

    I have a drive line that came with it too. Not sure if it was the original one is something bought for the swap. Is that going to have to be a custom driveline made for this truck?

    I'm starting to think somebody started the 350 swap a long time ago and made some mistakes. They probably gave up after that.
     
  25. K13
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,718

    K13
    Member

    No surprise that you will have to move some stuff around if it is a different driveline. I ***ume it has a different rear end in it as well then as the original was a torque tube. You will also probably have to get a driveshaft made up unless you get lucky and can find a junkyard one that is the right length.
     
  26. Clevername
    Joined: Feb 18, 2011
    Posts: 318

    Clevername
    Member

    Seems to me you need to do a bit of planning. Maybe you should post a picture of what you are after. Post a few more of the truck itself, I am ***uming it is the truck in your avatar. I have no knowledge of old Chevy trucks, but the front suspension looks weird to me. There are a lot of folks here that could help, but you could help with a direction of what you want -and what kind of budget you have.

    Kelvin
     
  27. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Hey, yeah my genera plan for it, right now, is to get it functional without cutting too many corners. That's already looking like a big goal. After that, then I can start getting it more complete, prettier and faster [emoji1]

    I'll take some photos in the morning of the suspension. It's also a little bit of a mystery. I was told it off is a Mustang II, but I haven't really looked into it yet. I'm sure there is something weird done to it haha

    Out of curiosity, what jumped out about the suspension?
     
  28. Jashawa9485
    Joined: Jun 10, 2015
    Posts: 23

    Jashawa9485
    Member

    Alright, got a chance to take some pictures of the truck and suspension. I do have all the body parts in the front, but they are off for derusting right now and ease of engine swapping.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1434143183.421942.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1434143201.045138.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1434143216.634870.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1434143233.829666.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1434143257.407662.jpg
     
  29. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,582

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    you should start by getting the cab into it's proper spot before positioning the engine, steering etc.....
    pinto front end....i can't stand them.
     
  30. Roger53
    Joined: Aug 8, 2010
    Posts: 383

    Roger53
    Member

    Hi This is not me being a wise *** so is this your first build? If so stop and take adeep breath . There get a game plan with out a plan these things can turn into a money pit very damned fast. Try to get an idea on what you want at the end of the build. If it a hot rod then there are alot of ways to go. It's way more fun knowing you have a good plan to follow and way cheaper! This is one of those things you can learn from this site and stove bolt for the chevy GMC guys. And happy building! Roger
     

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