Projects garagefind/ survivor 40 coupe build. FIRED IT UP!

I can hear them running from my house and when the air is right I hear the announcer. Last time I was there was "test& tune" on a Friday night.

Manual transmissions seem pretty straight forward, automatics are magic. I had a 57 Chevy with a leaking rear main just after HS and I put 11 synchronizing drums in the 3 speed in 1 year. The 57 was just supposed to be transportation. I ha d already removed the FH from the 40 and was inserting a 327.

 

On with the trans build. After cleaning all the gears and the cluster shaft , I was ready to assemble. The front ball bearing was rough, probably due to RTV in the bearing, so I ordered a new one. After receiving it and comparing the rear bearing to the new one, I ordered another one. That's 3 out of 4 ball bearings in the trans.


The cluster is in and waiting for the main shaft assy.

Mainshaft with 1st and 2nd with synchro and new bearing. The mainshaft is slower to build because there are thrust clearances to be checked. Also it's a used transmission, so there are burs and such that need to be filed or stoned off. Today I'll clean, inspect,and stone the 3rd and 4th gears and 3/4 synchro hub. That goes on the left end of the shaft in the pic. The goal is to have the engine/ trans back in the car this weekend. Have a good Memorial Day.

 

Looks like you have a full fun filled weekend planned! Hope all goes according to your plan!

 

Thanks, I just checked your build and I was wondering if those plug wires would fit in the stock FH tubes? Another nice job on the distributor and wires.

 

Thanks Joel! I am not sure about getting all four wires into that stock flathead loom. I just went out to the shed and looked at mine..... I think that that it might be kind of tight at the beginning when you have all four wires in there but it would be worth a try. I have always liked the stock looms. The wires are only .031" bigger each but that adds up to an extra .124" for four wires.

Well have fun building that tranny, I have been out mowing my acre of weeds today but I hope to go out for cruise night today and a memorial weekend car show on Saturday. Looks like we will have our typical rainy Memorial weekend around here though so I may get to play with the 40 instead. And that is not a bad thing.

 

There is an open house at the local performance warehouse tomorrow and there will be a couple hundred cars there. I skipping it this year so I don't lose my place on the trans assembly. I installed the shifter shaft seals, shafts, detent balls and springs and the shift forks; I had to move the gear assemblies over to that half so I could line up the forks to the synchro sliders. Also, the manual said to do it that way. It's 11:00 so the other half of the case will go on tomorrow.

 

UPDATE. The transmission is finished, including the shifter. I just disassembled the shifter and cleaned and re-lubed everything. There is a spring inside that was a bitch to get back in. The pic is after everything is done.
The next operation is checking the register of the bellhousing and install offset dowels in the block if necessary.
This is the setup. I couldn't turn the engine and watch the indicator at the same time and the wife couldn't turn the engine; so, I'm going to have to round up some assistance. The dowels come in .007, .012 & .014 offset and I think I'm going to need the .007". More later.

 

My son came down to help and I changed the indicator so it was easier to follow. I was in a hurry the first time; I was trying to get the numbers before the speed shop closed. I took one pic showing the good setup.

The horizontal axis .003 TIR and the vertical was .012 TIR,so, the .007 offset dowels will give me .002 on the vert. and .003 on the hor. I just have to drive to the warehouse in the morning to get them. If I buy breakfast, maybe my son will ride along.

 

THE ENGINE IS IN! That is the big news, but I'll catch up from the last post. I picked up the offset dowels and checked the offset with a V-block and indicator. 7 means total indicator, not off center, so I either had to go back to the warehouse or make some. I broke out the 4 jaw and went to work.

Dowels are done, the flywheel and clutch is installed, and it's ready for the bellhousing and transmission.

I had to add some sealer to plate that covers the cluster bearing. There was a very small leak, so I sealed it and clamped the bellhousing up to it for a day. I checked it and all is good.
Here are the proof pix of the installed engine / trans. I have lots to do now, before I can fire it. Maybe it'll be this weekend, but I would like to go to Indy and see Pure Hell run.

 

Looking good Joel!

 

Looking great !

 

This is the coil mount bracket with an attachment point for the throttle return spring. I fabbed a base that uses the back 2 manifold bolts. The little pics show what it looks like after welding the clamp from a factory coil mount.
After welding & blasting
I dipped it in Eastwoods zinc plating kit and then used some rubbing compound to shine it a little. It's not chrome or cad plating ,but if you clear coat it , it holds up pretty well.

 

Nice looking bracket Joel. Everyone will think it is a stock assembly but you will know better.

 

Thanks. I'm trying to get to firing it up, but those kind of little projects keep coming up.

 

Finally made some progress toward finishing up the engine install. I found 3 high torque starters in my collection and it turns out , all 3 are good. I turned the armature and rebrushed one myself and took a second to a local rebuilder because it needed a different snout and bendix drive.


The 1st pic is the rebuild and above is mine ,which is now installed and tested.
Both headers were installed, but I had to remove the valve covers to get them in place. The last pic is the alternator mounted to the header bracket. I have to install the pulleys and belt and drop the hood on to check clearance. I lost some belt adjustment when I went to tall valve covers.

 

Really nice. I love those headers. Who makes those, they would be perfect for my 39 sedan.

 

I had to make those; I was hoping someone would make something for years, but no dice. In order to get them in and out , they are 2 piece with little tabs welded on to hold them together.
You can see the tab in the 2nd pic.
Thanks for the compliment. It took 2 weeks to build them and I used 16 ga. bends and flanges from Speedway. They consist of two 1 5/8" into a 2" and two 2" into a 3" collector.

 

Thanks for the picks and the info. I will totally copy those. I love tri y's. Time to make yet another speedy order!

 

Or let me know if you get bored and want to build another set. Ill buy um!

 

Have to agree. Those headers are impressive.

 

Thanks KK.

Jason, there is so little room between the body and the inner fender, that they have to be built on the car.

 

Im noticing that. Mine has tge craziest old exhaust ive ever seen. Had a 283 put in it in tge 6085's the welded shut tge outlet on a set of ram horns and welded station pipe right to the side of it to run the pipes out through tge fender. Ill just get some tubes and fire up the welder!

 

In the 60s that is

 

Ok so after reading this whole thread over again twice I gotta ask...what are you using for pedals. I know that uou said you were using The zbar from years ago and I see tge master on the firewall. Just curious... I cant stand tge master cylinder under tge floor .....such a pain.

 

I made my own mounting bracket,but the pedals are 70/71 Nova or 70 Chevelle. I parted out 2 Novas and a chevelle in the early 80s . The brake pedal curving around the left side of the column allowed ample foot room for the accelerator pedal.

 

Very nice! Really clean set up. Thanks for the picks. I need to get mine pulled into the shop so I can get moving on it. Gotta finish my 31 first. Really dig this car!

 

Nice looking pedal setup Joel. I see a lot of benefits over the under the floor system.I noticed you did not put a power booster on the master cylinder which helps keep the engine compartment look less crowded.

 

Thanks, I'm hoping I'll finish the car before my legs need the power assist. It might be close.

 

It's not a project anymore; it's a car that needs paint ,upholstery and glass. Maybe there's not much difference, but it sure feels different.
I'd like to say there were no issues, but when I poured water in the radiator, it leaked out the back of the water pump. That was about 8:00 this evening and I almost stopped and pulled the pump. Then I thought I might as well find out if there was anything else not right. I had put gas in earlier, so I turned the engine over with the starter ( no plugs) until it was well primed and there was fuel in the carb.
I had the wife standing by the fire extinguisher, while I worked the key with one hand and the carb with the other. It fired right away, but I had to bump the timing a couple of times before I could keep it running. It only ran for about a minute; by then I figured most of the water was leaked out and I quit.
Today was a good day.