I'm building a 261 Chevy Stroker for my 48 Chevy. I just got some aluminum "Superod" connecting rods off eBay which should make for a really lightweight bottom end. My concern is that the rods all have some pitting in them. Nothing really major, but it's still there. My questions are, is this a problem? Should I, or even can I, do anything about it? Here's an example
Take some 600 grit wet or dry to 'em. If they don't polish out then sell 'em for colum drops. If the pits do polish out I'd still get'em checked for cracks.
I think the pits are too deep to polish out. I'm not concerned about how they look. The pits don't seem to be a structural problem to me, more like a casting problem, but what do I know. I'm defineitely going to get them magnafluxed along with the block. I just wanted to know if it was worth the trouble. I paid a lot for them, so I hope they're still good.
OK, time for a little lesson. Aluminum does get pits and you should polish them out, as they create stress risers if left alone. Make sure your final grinding marks are parallel to the rod, not cross-wise. Again, the scratches are stress risers. Stress risers make it easier for fatigue cracks to initiate. If you have casting defects, then those rods are not worth ****, but any aluminum rod should be forged, or machined from billet. Forged is better. A cast aluminum rod is just not even practical to consider. BTW, you can't magnaflux aluminum, it's not magnetic. Magnaflux is also a brand name for the process known generically as magnetic particle inspection. As the name implies, it only works on magnetic materials, such as steel or cast iron.
In order to inspect the rods for defects, you need to use penetrant inspection, preferably fluorescent pentrant, as it's more sensitive. That is about your only practical option, besides a good visual exam.
HELLFISH send them to superod and have them checked for stretch and twist.They can recon them if need be and dress them up.I got a ****load of C&A-Brooks and BME all of them say they recon them for under half new price.They will also let you know about the pitting.Looks like salt pits to Me.--Feder
are salt pits bad? how would salt get on the rods?? Do you have any contact info on Superod? I couldn't find them on the web.
Any good magnaflux shop should be able to zyglo them for you, that is how to check for cracks in aluminum, I would be afraid to use em if they weren't perfect.
Nice introduction, Meathead! You don't even introduce yourself before you start hitting people up for advice. Tsk! Tsk! man, you guys are really digging! This post is 4 years old!
I used to use Superods in my Ford 300 six drag car (9.03@147mph). They are no longer in the business of making rods - Im not sure they are in business at all. I would not use them, pits or not. I broke a Superod (296 p***es). The others looked like new. You cannot know how many cycles they have on them. Is it worth the risk of losing your engine? Or getting hurt? I suggest Oliver rods made in Michigan USA. That is what I switched to.
I too remember the superrods from years ago. They are very light, but that comes with a price-more failures. I agree with FRENCHTOWN, they may no longer be in business. However, that stroker six shouldn't be too much of a wallet breaker-and if you are not going to the drag strip, the rods may be just fine in the six. What's the worse thing
DUH, I hit submit without finishing my sentence: what's the worst thing that could happen with the rods So you blow one, just build another engine-not that big of deal. Now if you were saying these were going in a high dollar 392, I would say no. Just an opinion for what it's worth. Kurt
I'm wondering if those rods came from an alky enging that sat around with contaminated oil in the crankcase. Alcohol is tough on aluminum! I wouldn't use them without having them checked by someone that has the equipment to do it right. Still I'd only use them on a street engine, anything thats going to see hi revs gets new only otherwise,IMHO. Normal Norman
I ran m-t isky with off set caps - howard- and super rod years ago and broke a few and never ran used rods . after 150 runs i would replace them.
wow! i didnt realize it was that big of a deal. does anyone besides hellfish know where i can look up the part numbers on these rods to find the specs?