Let me first start out by admitting that I have never built a Custom Model A before. I have done a lot of work on 1960's and 70's cl***ics ( I own a few). Finding, Building and owning a 1931 Model A (160 A-B) Slant Window Fodor with suicide doors has been a lifelong dream and I have finally purchased a survivor of that model and I am truly excited about the prospects. I have a full shop with all the tools and the basic working knowledge to do just about anything mechanical but I am at a loss of where to begin. I have not begun to tear it down yet but I plan to strip it down to its component pieces and build it back from the frame up. I want to keep all of the running boards and fenders and as much of the original character as possible but I also want to update everything (Disc Brakes, Trans, Engine) and make it safe to drive on modern streets and highways. My first question is; Should I totally replace the frame and go with a new modern boxed frame? or can I simply box the frame that I have and modify it to accept the 327 Chevy motor and Trans that I want to put in it? As always, budget is a big issue but I want to make it near show quality by the end. PLEASE HELP ME... Where do I start ?
You certainly can box the original frame. Being a more door put a large heavy K member to keep the frame flex down and very rigged. I have built and driven several more door frames and the less flex the better the body likes it. Doors stay shut!
You can box it yourself and good to go,just check it over cracks bent etc.From the pic it looks like a sound car.I have the same also but not in as good shape.Don't discard anything till your sure on direction.
Looks to be a nice survivor. Those slant-windshield Model A's are very unique. If you are into welding, and can access some sort of a frame jig, you should be able to box that frame and install necessary crossmembers/attachment points for your drive train and suspension mounts. Since you are apparently going to drive this rig, please keep in mind an O.D. type of trans. More builders who actually travel long distances to rod runs and shows are doing this. You can use the a formula for setting up your gear ratio and tire size along with a 700R4, for instance, to maximize cruising mileage on extended trips. Most everyone is also installing a/c from Vintage Air in San Antonio, even though this kind of stuff is considered very "non-traditional". This type of ride will be an all-season vehicle. These little attentions to detail ensure a good, comfortable ride. Good luck. P.S. Many HAMB members' cars have similar appointments, but you aren't likely to hear much discussion in that direction.
Thanks Walter, I will take your suggestion into serious consideration. I saw that K Frame kits run about 600 dollars. Do you think that is about right?
Thanks Gary, she is a true survivor, from cursory inspection and examination she is very solid and rust free. Someone has taken good care of her over the years. Another gentleman has told me that the Mustang II front suspension with a little fab work is great for this year of Model A. Definitely want to have disc brakes on this old girl...
Thank you Gary, I actually found a frame boxing kit ( http://www.code504.com/the-boxer-19...2at1OSOvD-rtBte9hRX82ILA94K11BXnIUaAi-x8P8HAQ ) that looks sound and easy to install on a budget and overdrive transmission is definitely on my mind as well. I have not decided whether to go with a ford small block or Chevy small block setup for the drive train yet but there is definitely a lot to consider. Right now the important thing is the ch***is and foundation to start from.
As usual, with new guys, I would direct you to SoCal Speedshop and Pete&Jakes. Look at what they offer in the way of complete ch***is and/or components to build you own. Study theirs because they have been at it a long time and what they do will provide what you want ch***is wise. Bodywork and interior is up to you. But...have a definite plan/picture of what the finished thing will be like in place BEFORE buying stuff or doing anything. A solid target to work towards rather than a ****tergun shoot from the hip approach always ends in a better finished job.