Alright, while tearing apart engine #2 (the one that turned) I found this in the pan Apparently, piston #3 self destructed at some point My new valve set and hardened rings arrived. I've spoken to a local engine shop with model T and A experience and they've quoted me $500-$600 to inspect and clean the block, bore out cylinders to 4", enlarge the intakes to 1.73", and install hard valve seats all around. This sounds like a fair price to me. Any suggestions for a piston supplier?
"Self-Destructed"? It looks like a short skirt race piston to me, but hey I still believe in speed holes.
A day spent wrenching is a day well spent. Family left for the day, so I had some alone time with several hundred pounds of cast iron and steel. Finished tearing down and cleaning the mid '29 block. No visible cracks and and I think the Babbitt is good. I have three broken head studs and three pan bolts that need to be drilled out and removed. The '30 block has all cylinders and the cam seized. Liberal application of PB Blaster and letting it soak. Definite signs that it was rebuilt at some point. All studs and bolts removed without incident. Honest dirty hands are awesome.
A gas cylinder valve cover and a 5lb sledge work well for driving out stuck Pistons. #1 is going to soak a little longer.
If none of the bangers you have turn out useable I have a A banger you can have for free. Looks decent I bought it for the police head at a swap meet the guy made me take the whole thing. It'll be minus head side cover front timing cover and flywheel.
I've been lacking in do***ented progress, but I now have (02) stripped blocks ready for the machinist with the third finally pulled from the frame for take down.
This tip is going to sound nuts... But it worked great on our model T block. Stuff some old cotton rags into each of the cylinders. Fill the cylinders with Kerosene....... Light the rags. Let it burn for awhile (we brunt for about 30mins or so) The Heat expands the cast iron and cracks the rust. The Kerosene seeps down the walls an lubes the rings. We got 1 rotation out of the crank before it snagged on a dry spot (and a rust ring in the #1 cylinder) a little love with a persuader and all 4 pistons came out. Might want to use this method out doors.... and away from things that are flammable.
Okay. I need a little camshaft advice. My intention is to have my block bored out for 4" pistons and install over-sized intake valves. Single Holley Carb with intention of going dual down the road. Since I am taking these steps, would it be better to have a Street or Race regrind on the camshaft? I hear that the Race camshaft is a little temperamental at idle and general touring use, but I also don't want to choke on the 1yd line after I invested in some block improvements.
You do not want a "race" cam. They can make a fun car very hard to drive! A "B" grind or slightly modified profile is great. The Stype cam is good one. Think of your RPM range- you idle at 600 and cruise at 1800- not very much time to be paying with a race cam profile. Remember we are not talking SBC here. The combination you have selected will give good street performance and long life (I hope!) Have fun!
I just bought a Stipe 340 cam for my banger from here, Antique Engine Rebuilding. The only place I could find that had one in stock, including Bill Stipe himself. Sounds like atleast 6 weeks until more are available from what I hear. Try http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com , as they may still have some in stock.
Jim Brierley is your man http://www.autonetnewengland.com/in...ents/to-our-fellow-gearheads/253-model-a-tech and he has written a book on hopping up 4 bangers For a copy of 4-bangers! and me book, send $24 (US customers) to: Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592. PayPal welcome, jimb4e4@gmail.com. 150 pages of really good info on building a banger, chapters on History, Valves, Cams, Heads & Compression, etc. 28 chapters and 180 half-size pages total.
A huge "Thank You" to my former employer, Sapsis Rigging, who allowed me to infiltrate his metal shop for a couple of hours and fabricate a couple of tool stands. I miss having a MIG welder and vast amounts of metal stock at the ready.
Didn't want them on the build, but couldn't bring myself to send them to the s**** yard. Figure I'd make some wall art for the Man Cave.
Sorry if I sound dumb by asking this, but what am I looking at? Is that a drill guide? That's pretty cool. I have a couple of those clamps, but they are just 'c' shaped.
That's a drill press clamp mounted on a piece of 1/2 stock being held down by an eyebolt into one of the head stud holes. The longer piece of stock has a drill bushing pressed into it.
Winter and life have slowed down the progress and postings. I've been meeting local parts hoarders and gathering some parts for the project. I have a couple of stock flywheels and decided to try lightening them myself on my lathe. Still experimenting with speed and feed rates. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10207730626356387
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