Technical Low cost water pump riser would you buy and use one?

I'd have to agree here. At 53 years of age and never ever have worked on an early Ford (Model A to be exact) this is where I'm at. I'm on a take over where experience was absent. So, I have some clean up work and repair's to do and this is seriously crossing my mind. Because I've seen and have done my share of mistakes so I know all about this stuff, and I'm done with that way of working. Because when thing's get put into place without all the parts to mock thing's up, the natural thing to do is alter way to many other thing's instead of starting out right. It may take a little longer (so you think !) but it's way cheaper in the end and there's more firewall space. Oh shoot, firewall's. That reminds me, I've got to fix that big hole where the engine sit's currently.

 

Well, there are lots of trade offs.
There's a lot of one change making 2 or 47 more too. Apparently there's quite the connection between your toes, the engine fan & the floor pan. How's that work ,,, toes do not get in the way of the engine fan.


If the car was designed for a flat head, its also designed for a high riding engine cooling fan, inherent to the flat head. Raising the refitted engine up in its entirty until a lower mounted fan (sbc in this case) is in a better location surely does work. But it requires extensive Trans tunnel and drive shaft tunnel work. Raising the engine encroaches into the cabin. Cramps your foot space and now your toes have less room or the gas pedal is awkward.

Here's where the Zips shines, it just raises the fan and the engine doesn't need to come thru the floor pan, how cool is that? The goal is to move the fan up to a location closer to where the flathead fan ran, the exact water pump location is of little concern until the fan needs to get bolted onto it, then the water pump is moving too. But the water pump needs to change now to satisfy the hot rod law of "one change makes two". There it stops.

$300 is cheap compared to the fab work there. In the process it's got an alternator mount and a AC mount.

This sweet dreams riser adapter just moves the fan up a couple of inches. Maybe that's just enough for some.

 

I disagree^^^.. I don't call this a raised floor at all.. I've never had a problem with floor space in the small interior of a model A... This is the same car as the engine shot above...

 

Apples and oranges.

 

A

awesome
I need a different tape measure
Because when I mount them with the oil pan rail anywhere close to the top of the frame rail I seem to get a bit less than 1/2 of the trans sticking thru the floor pans. Maybe more on a swept style frame or a channeled car.

 

It's even on a model A frame.. Here's another beater with mechanical fan, full hood and flat floor.. The car's not much to look at but you can clearly see it works... sorry for multiple pics...

 

I found a couple more that worked.. Mechanical fan and relatively flat floor...

 

As far as setting up the car right; I could have raised the engine 2" but I would have had less leg room because of the bigger trans tunnel (I'm a big guy). I think we are getting a bit off here. If you need more than 2" by all means go with a zips riser it's a good product. I just figured this could be an option for the guy that just can't afford a zips riser, or doesn't like the look, or needs to clear the oil fill tube. For whatever reason I figured it was another option...Guess I was wrong. Oh well can't say I didn't try.

 

Exactly, the project I'm doing is a 32 that had the engine placed with 4+" of space from fan to the radiator. After some math and a 17" fan the engine would only need to be raised 3/4" after moving it forward approximately 3"+ . Not a bad trade off considering the bulk of the trans is the bell housing. Also this project is not channeled. Of course a Zip will be needed by some people because of major mods. As I tried saying 31 Vicky, start things right and all else falls into play. The project I have got started wrong and if I continue adding stuff to compensate this thing will be another.............. https://johnthewitness.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/ff183.jpg?w=785

 

BIG - JIM, don't worry about who can or can't use it, its an option for whoever can take advantage of it. Ya done good. K6


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Thanks K6 I figured I can't be the only one that could use this.

 

I'm of the opinion that the motor should be high enough in the frame to get the fan where it needs to be. I took on a project 32 ford pickup that had the engine mounts, steering gear and such already located. It became evident early on that the steering gear would need to be moved, and I truly wish I would have cut those engine mounts out at the same time. I eventually ended up using an electric fan to get it to cool properly. So when my next build began, I was determined to get the engine up where I believe it belongs. It is a 29 Model A roadster and there is a lot less room, but everything fits nice, and it cools like it should.

All that being said, if I had known about the relocation kit you have shown us, I would have used it instead of the electric one. How much does it cost?

 

i have had to "fix" cars built with fan issues. this is a good cheap solution and an alternative to raising the engine, installing electric fans, cut down fans etc...
if the engine had a long water pump, would it be just a matter of installing this kit with a short pump and changing the belt?