Also got a bit more done to the rear wishbone and torque arm. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ha ! much debate about that. The radius arms I have (48's ) aren't as beefy as the '36 version. Easy insurance, and I like to over engineer. I like to look too.
Fair enough. I just figure if it's strong enough with the two ends attached to the torque tube it aught to be enough with them joined and attached to a cross member. But you may as well if it's easy to get at I suppose
Could you give me some details about your shocks? I'm doing a 30 closed cab pickup. I too am using Dagel's boxing plates.
Dirt t, I'm using a pair of rear lever shocks from a 60's MG for front shocks. Going to use tube shocks for the rear. I had press out the arms to bend them straight and weld in a ball mount so I can use the stock Ford dog bone. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
After a long day at work I checked the HAMB and see your thread. Thank you for starting my weekend off great. Well done my friend!
Love the split wishbone kit, where do you get it? Have a few pictures saved of other cars running it but no mention of where they came from.
I got the cast wishbone mounts from evilbay, there's a set up now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOT-ROD-SPE...-97-/360670455636?hash=item53f9a26754&vxp=mtr And a really cool pair of Mr Roadster version http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Rod-Mr-...ool-/321859835511?hash=item4af0575677&vxp=mtr
Thanks Dentisaurus, had a look and it looks like they are made by Vintage Speed, was going to order some Holley 94 parts from Vintage Speed anyway. Did not know they made them. Not a catalogue item.
Cool! I was watching the YouTube video of "how to split wishbones" (great video) and he used those sp brackets. Just going through the archives it seems like people did not really like vintage speed. Did they do well on this piece?
I think the Mr Roadster ones are better quality, especially if you don't have access to machine tools. Mine came with the 3 mounting holes drilled ( slightly out of square) but the tapered hole for the rod end was still a rough casting. I used them as covers for the steel mounts I made. Other folks here have used them as the main mount without problems Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I noticed that, about 6mm steel backing plate As I'm using a not boxed chassis I think I need that extra security, flexing chassis and cast chassis parts don't go together well
Got a little bit done on the A this weekend. My mate Brett came over so we could shuffle the coupe body off the old chassis onto the new. Comical but we got it done. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hope I am lot too late with this suggestion. Get with the DMV and see what will make them happy on the frame change since the serial number ("VIN") is on the frame. Be sure to get the name of the person you talk to at DMV since a new person may have different ideas on what is necessary. Maybe even send them a letter thanking them for their help so they remember you. Contact their boss and tell him how helpful they were. Remember you will probably be seeing this person again. Take plenty of pictures. If you go too far without taking care of the paperwork you may have problems. Charlie Stephens
Good advice Charlie. Except I would caution against publicly thanking civil servants for being helpful. You might get them in trouble!
Inasmuch as you replaced the original frame because it was rusty and sagging, is there any reason you could not either cut out the original VIN and weld it to the new frame? Or simply obtain a number die set and strike the original VIN in the new frame? I remember back in the day it was common to find missmatched frame/engine VIN numbers on FOMOCO vehicles because they often traded an old engine for a rebuilt unit. Just saying.
Many model A's don't have frame numbers. If the guy on the line had the day off, no number. As the number is under the body, bit tricky to verify the number on an assembled car. This is the first time I've had the body off the frame, I'll probably just strike the VIN number in the new frame as the old one doesn't have any numbers that I could find. The new frame uses original cross members, it isn't boxed either so it looks pretty stock less the X member welded into it. Thanks for the thought.
Stamping the number in the new frame will probably not fly. Best to contact DMV and discuss it or contact a title company. Some states will furnish a "state" tag to affix to car. With that tag you are good to go, especially if you sell it in the future.
I, too have heard that stamping the VIN on a frame is a big no,no. you could not find the Model A number on the frame? It should be on top of the rail behind the steering box. It would be hidden under the body if it was installed. I have not heard of ford not stamping numbers on frames before. not that this would help you, becouse you should not stamp it on the new rail anyway. What will you do with the old frame? if you sell it and someone finds the number, then uses that number....well, we can't have two cars with the same VIN. I know this gets a little off track of what this thread is all about, but what do people do with aftermarket/home made frames? espically when you don't have an origanal number to use.
I have read that Ford of Canada did not stamp frames but have no idea what the other countries might have done. Charlie Stephens
Took another look at the frame, no numbers to be found. I found an article with a copy of the Ford instruction book supplied with the Model A which states the serial number is stamped on the engine. Low and behold the number on my engine is my VIN number on my title. So I will need to call the RMV folks to ask them what I do if I replace the engine? I would think there would be some provision for this ?Hopefully someone with some sense will tell me how to have a VIN tag issued for the body . Or maybe that 4 banger just became a permanent fixture in my shed? Ha, this will be interesting.
If you have a title for the car, don't say anything. Just go register it and save yourself a lot of headaches.
On my A pickup the motor was a 1928 the pickup is a 30-31. When I pulled the body there is a number drivers side just behind front cowl bolt hole. That number said January 1930. The folks at ford barn were a great help. fordbarn.com
My numbers were in that spot. But I had to look real close they didn't stand out at all. When I found them it took a bit to get a good tracing of them to give to the title people here in pennsylvania.
Call the RMV and ask. I had the same thing in California about 40 years ago. Engine matched title. They checked it to verify that it was the car that matched the paperwork and then they installed a tag on the door jam. At that time they told me that California was no longer registering vehicles by engine number. Charlie Stephens
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