I bought some header wrap the other day and wrapped the AC lines since they run close to the header and I also wrapped the exhaust pipe where it ran under the master cylinder. I'm not sure if that was necessary but I figured it couldn't hurt. Next on the list is repairing the running board support mounts. I have the rust perforated portions cut out, now I'm on the hunt for the same thickness metal to repair them.
Is the exhaust pipe stainless? It's my understanding that the header wrap will hold moisture up against the pipe and rot them out if they're not coated or stainless.
I'd hit the wrapped area with some header/exhaust paint. The heat while running will drive moisture out, but apparently the wrap can tend to attract and hold condensation kinda like a blade of grass.
Ok, thank you for the tip patmanta. I'll get that done. Or would a simple metal heat shield tacked to the exhaust pipe be better? I could form a piece of sheet metal with some standoffs to allow for airflow. My whole point for the exhaust wrap was to ensure the heat didn't affect the brake fluid.
A heat shield would probably be the ticket. I'd attach it to the frame under the MC rather than the pipes.
Sorry guys, I know it's been awhile. There's a couple of things I'm trying to think through: 1) getting the throttle linkage worked out and 2) fixing the running board supports. Originally I was going to use a single four barrel carb so the Lokar throttle cable and AOD TV cable were set up accordingly. Well, now that I have the three deuces I'm trying to figure out how to use the cables I already have. So I worked several hours the other day slicing and dicing a Lokar cable bracket just to realize what I created won't work. Here I mounted the trans tunnel to a board sitting across the frame rails. I did this because the gas pedal is mounted to it. It's kind of hard to see the bottom of the gas pedal where the cable attaches. And here's what I made only to realize that it won't allow the carb to open fully. I need to figure out a way to run the cables horizontally, obviously. Nice brain fart I had there. And here's a pic of the running board supports. Two of the four look like this. I cut out the bad portions and I have a piece of 1/8 inch steel to use to fix them but I'm trying to figure out how to bend it. None of the local shops have a bending/brake big enough to bend it. I have a portion of a rail road track that has a similar shape to form the bend on. I also have an acetylene torch set up a friend gave me but I don't have it put together yet. I tried a propane torch but it just doesn't get hot enough. I think I just need to get the oxy-acetylene torch set up, heat up the metal and persuade it into shape over the rail road iron.
Coupla interesting issues you have there Dave. On the throttle linkage, my first thought was to make a bracket that uses your current bracket mount hole and either the left bolt on your rear carb or drill and tap a 5/16"-18 x 5/8" hole on the side of the carb adapter just below the rear carb. That way you can mount the cable bracket directly behind the throttle lever. As for an attachment point, modify a heim joint to attach to the throttle lever and drill a hole in the threaded portion for your cable. That'll give you some adjustment for fine tuning your throttle opening. Regarding your oxy-acetyline rig, get a good "Rosebud" tip, maybe 3/4" diameter. That will help you spread the heat to form the metal. A couple of vice grips for sheet metal bending might keep the fingers from getting hot and making you say bad words.
Dave, for the length of those patches (I'm guessing 8-10 inches?) and their width, even when you get them red hot, you'll need a 20-ton press to get the bend quickly and evenly, don't you think? I've cut off railroad spike heads and used the shanks welded to track plates to create a press mold for thinner plate steel in my 20-ton press. I'd think with the right amount of heat, you can persuade that 1/8-inch plate to bend in the right profile.
Eli, I was looking the throttle cables last night and I think I've figured out how to do it. In the picture showing the cables, you'll see an allen head bolt sticking up. Well, there are two tapped mounting bosses on the intake, I think I can make a bracket that will mount to those bosses and provide a place to attach the throttle and AOD cable. Time to pull out the construction paper for a template!! Osage, with a 20 ton press, do you think I would even need to heat the metal? It's "ONLY" 1/8 inch thick. I hadn't thought of using a press and your comments on the rail road spike used as a press mold is ingenious! Perhaps I could get a piece of solid rod that is the radius I need for the bend and use that to press the metal into shape. Now all I need is a 20 ton press.
Alrighty, I think I got it the throttle and AOD TV cable bracket done. I took a piece of 1/8 inch flat stock and made this. I cycled the throttle pedal and it works great!
I was thinking of picking up the other hole as you mention but there isn't any pulling force on the bracket. The cable sheathing is just attached to it with no movement at all.
i would still do it even my 12 yo son said it was gonna move better to be safe then sorry if it moves down the road
Point well made Cowboy. Thanks. So I'm working to get the engine ready to fire because I want to check for leaks and such before the body goes on. Well, 5 minutes in and I found my first leak. I was filling the radiator and my nicely fabricated lower radiator pipe has a pin hole in it. DRAT! So I drained the coolant out and was very thankful for the drain plug idea on the pipe. Worked great! I'm going to weld it up and see if the local radiator shop can pressure test it for me. I also inspected the transmission cooler lines I had made years ago to see how my double flares looked. I think I'm going to redo a couple of them just to be sure. One step forward, two steps back sometimes.
Making some progress. - coolant in with no more leaks - transmission lines reflared - throttle cable and AOD TV cable installed (just need to set the pressure on the trans once it is running and up to temp) - been running wires for sending units and ignition box/distributor - need to finish up starter to solenoid wiring and I should be ready to test run the motor
Wow-What a Great Day!-Can't beat the feeling you get the day you breath new life into an old vehicle. Congratulations!
What a nice sound! Congratulations and hot damn. Give us a few details about the engine: Cam, heads, carb/manifold combo (I'm still thinking to eventually follow your lead on that) and water pump (clearance with the radiator). How's that AOD doing? Saw that you were giving it a top-off of fluid. I'm sure that setting the kickdown cable using a pressure gauge is right on the heels of fine-tuning the carbs and ignition.
Thanks guys, I'm definitely excited to reach this milestone in the build. Being my first time with such a build I was a nervous as could be to crank the engine. At the recommendation of a long time hot rodder, a couple of days ago I pulled the plugs and squirted a couple drops of oil down the cylinders and with the plugs out, fuel pump off and ignition disconnected I turned the motor over until I saw some oil pressure. Then last night, it ran!! I did discover a gas leak at the fuel filter and transmission fluid leak where the lines go into the cooler. Osage, to be honest the most exciting thing about the engine is the intake and carbs. The engine and tranny came from an '89 Mercury Grand Marquis and they are bone stock. The engine is a roller cam motor but it has the factory cam and heads. I'll get you the measurements between the water pump and radiator. As for the AOD, you are correct, I was topping it off. I didn't let the engine run long enough last night to get everything up to operating temperature due to the leaks that showed up. But once those are fixed and I'm sure the trans is filled appropriately I'll adjust the kick down cable with a pressure gauge. I do have a question for you ignition experts as I'm a bit of a novice there. When I put the three deuces on I didn't see a place to connect the distributor vacuum advance. Do I just put in more mechanical advance?
I just pulled my '77 block and heads out of the molasses soup, cleaned them up and painted them, so I've got a winter ahead of me to decide whether it will be cost effective to machine the block and crank (probably an .030 bore and a -.010 grind and polish ahead) or cheaper/easier to just buy a reman long block. Either way, I also have to figure out just where the water pump and fan are going to end up in relation to the radiator, so your measurements will help me figure what spacing I will deal with. Someday we'll have both of these trucks on the road.
Do these pictures help any? The fan and water pump pulley are not on the same plane, but if they were there is 1.5 inches clearance between them. The radiator is positioned where it would be for a stock 6 cylinder engine.
Kinda slow responding, but that's helping me. It's getting cold in the garage again, so I'm trying to do little stuff in short spurts or drag it inside if I can. Others on the H.A.M.B. have tipped me to consider the shorter 68 and earlier SBF pumps, which have the lower outlet on the opposite side of the 351s, and will require a Chevy-style radiator, but provide me some extra space. By the way, I did pick up and old oil filter cannister at a swap meet earlier this year and will likely adapt it as the remote M/C reservoir as you suggested that your friend has done. I'm also in the middle of fender repair, so will try my hand at lead work, too. How did the running board bracket turn out?
Dave , getting back to the running board dilemma ( unless I missed that you got them figured out) when I have to bend 1/8" plate I cut part way through the plate . Bends much easier , tack it all up , weld it in place everywhere else and then run a bead along the areas that you partially cut through . Hit them with a flap disc and know one would be the wiser ! Later , Andy...
First, congrats on firing it up Dave! Your grin says it all! As for the minor leaks, thats sorta inevitable. I like the way it started up so easily. As for your vacuum advance question, I looked back at earlier pictures of your distributor and it appears that you have a stock vacuum chamber rather than a ported chamber . This is good because it appears you have a vacuum line coming off the back of your intake. You can put a tee in there and plumb down to the size of your vacuum hose. Then just do your timing like normal. It will probably start a littler quicker too. Glad to see you're still at it. I was just thinking about your truck a couple of weeks ago.
Osage, just one point to ponder on using the earlier style water pump; I tried that too but it didn't match up with the timing cover. Mostly the bolt holes didn't line up but even the water ports weren't matching up correctly. You may need to source an early timing chain cover too. Andy, I have not fixed the running board supports. I like your thoughts on bending the metal and may try that. Eli, you're correct that there is a vacuum port on the back of the intake and I have the power brake booster and PCV valve connected to it. So you don't think there'd be any issues with T'ing the PCV vacuum line and running the vacuum advance off of it? Or should I just drill and tap the carb spacer for a vacuum port? So I have one update; the chassis and motor I'm considering done. I fixed the leaks and a friend more familiar with those Holly 94s helped me set the idle. I also put the timing at 10 degrees advanced. The motor seemed to like that. Now it's on to the body work. Another guy (friend of a friend) is going to help with the body work and paint. He'll start on the cab and I'll work on some rust repair of the inner fenders. They are the worst. Hopefully within the next few months the body will be painted.
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