Technical 1932 Pickup Rebuild Thread UPDATED 1/11/16

I'll just add, the thread title should give a hint, plus the words Dennis spoke about the truck (in regards to his father).

I'm in the camp of "just leave if you don't like it" crowd.

Why announce it?

 

Guys,

Thank you for your responses to this thread, I appreciate them all! I am not trying to build my truck to represent any particular past era, just a good mix of old Ford parts, a few repro parts and a power plant that doesn't take an hour to get up to 50mph like the old 'banger. I've never seen a rule book for building a hot rod. I have my methods and styles, other people have theirs. I've already done the hard core, era perfect thing with the '27 T Roadster I built which worked great for that car and let me cross a big ticket item off of my life's to-do list. What I'm trying to accomplish with this rework of my old truck is to end up with something that still looks old-timey and that I can truly use as a daily driver, pick up a load of lumber from Home Depot and take in some future road trips. My favorite '32 Pickup that I've ever seen is Danny's so I am building the exterior to emulate his with a few personal touches. For my intended driving purposes the SBC makes the most sense and was sitting in our building for the taking, so I did. (After I paid my Dad for it, of course!) To be fair, I don't think there ever was a fenderless, stock cab, stock bed '32 truck with stock 18" wires and big & little tires built in the 40's or 50's so it wouldn't be "traditional" no matter what.

My truck is also a lot different than Danny's (and other peoples) in the sense that he built his from collected pieces while I started with a complete, unmolested primo example. The way we do things at our shop, we don't just start cutting on cars. My Dad and I like to find no harm bolt on solutions whenever possible because more than 50% of our customer base are original cars and most of the time there's a way to get it done without being invasive. My Dad also gave me this truck when I was a baby. I grew up playing in it, my Dad drove me to preschool in it, I learned to drive in it when I was 13 in our shop alley, I took my Wife on our 2nd-ever date in it, I've taken my son to school in it and the first thing I'm gonna do when I get it finished and home is strap my 2 year old daughter in it. Yeah, to say there's sentimental value in it would be an understatement. This truck is like an old best friend so I'm not gonna start butchering it to solve clearance problems or try and make the frame rails drag on the ground.

 

I like this.

 

On Monday I tore all of the dress parts off the engine so it's back down to a bare long block. Today my Dad went to lunch with a friend so I took advantage of his air conditioned office! Tomorrow I'll be pulling the engine back out so I can start detailing it and get the transmission built. Stay tuned, October is going to be a tech-filled and big update-filled month!

My 36th birthday is December 3rd. I'm gonna try like hell to get it back on the road by then.

On a side note, yesterday I did not go to work. Instead I went to the doctor with my Wife so that we could see our future family addition for the first time.

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Congrats!

 

Congratulations Dennis

 

Congratulations ! Is that an SP Model 94 top ? Keep your fingers crossed for triplets buddy !

 

so...I'm starting to think, you won't be selling the truck to me when yer done

 

I like your built and agree that is no rule book! There were only junk yards to get the inspiration from. Congratulations on the new addition coming. My grandson love riding in my A tub. Frank

 

But he might need to trade for a fordor.......

 

Congratulations on your upcoming family addition and build your truck the way you want to, everyone did back then, too! Never has been a rule book for building hot rods and never should be. Hot rods are a reflection of the builder/owner's tastes and personalities, that is what makes it as great a hobby as it is.

 

Congrat's, Dennis (& Co.)! Sounds like a great excuse for a thread on how to build a killer sedan. Heheh

 

I have to say, great build! I love that you are being very conscious of not cutting up the truck to much. I tried to keep that mind set while building my pickup. I only ended up drilling 6 holes. It's also reassuring to me to see you use some of the procedures that I implemented on my build....Lets me know they weren't a waste of time!! Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build!

 

Danny
Checked your web site for more info on the widened 18" wire wheels, but didn't see anything. They're really nice! What does the procedure cost for a pair of wheels? Thanks...

 

Sorry. I need to do some updating on my site. I charge $850 for a pair using your wheels.

Sorry to hijack your thread Dennis.

 

Aint worried about it! At least people are writing something while everyone waits around for an update!

UPDATE

As of today all of the transmission parts are meticulously clean and ready to assemble including the case. Anybody want to see how to assemble an early Ford 3-speed? Stay tuned because next week I will be putting together a step-by-step.

 

I have wanted to build a '26 or '27 Touring for years.

 

Dennis--Waiting to see that Three speed tutorial. I have a friend here that does them, and he is excellent at the job. Hope to catch some good hints, and I`ll be comparing notes with my pal Mike...

 

10-4 on the trans rebuild!

 

UPDATE

Working away on the transmission. Everything has been test assembled and I should be doing final assembly and sealing tomorrow followed by paint on Friday. Will try my best to get the first How-To installments up this weekend.

 

patiently twiddling thumbs

 

Dennis. You may try something like this on your carb. I made this one for dad's car.

 

Danny - That is a fantastic idea! It needs to get filed in the "why didn't I think of that" drawer. I would totally do that if I had a V8 throttle assembly to use and will absolutely do it for the '57 283 Power Pack that we're putting in my Dad's '33 Panel. I've actually already modified the "B" assembly by making a new shaft that still has a short hook on the right side for the spring and pokes out the side of the retainer cap on the left with a lever attached. I keep forgetting to take pictures of it. Thanks for the killer idea!

 

Anytime.

 

TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY – PART 1



Disclaimer:



I know that there are many people out there that build these transmissions, some as a professional service. I know that when it comes to the details there will be varying procedures and opinions. By no means am I trying to imply that what I do is the only way it can and should be done. I can say that the way I do it works for me and results in an excellent performing transmission.



Preliminary



I did not cover the dis assembly of the side shift transmission that donated its gear train because I took it apart one day on the fly. The process is fairly straight forward and I'm sure with a little searching there are already instructions around the internet that cover it.



Prior to assembly everything should be absolutely, meticulously cleaned. I cut no corners when it comes to cleaning the transmission case and all of the internal parts. At this time I also fully inspect all of the gears, shafts and bearings for excessive wear, pitting, broken gear teeth and any other physical defects that can compromise the function and longevity of the transmission. Any of the bearings that look nice and turn smoothly are re used because it's my opinion that the quality of factory Ford USA bearings can't be matched.



Although there are physical differences in the gear sets, 1932 to 1939 were all the same ratios with 1st being 2.82:1, 2nd being 1.604:1 and 3rd being 1:1.



The gear set I will be using is the later 1940 to 1948 which has a deeper 1st gear at 3.114:1 and a deeper 2nd gear at 1.773:1. I had originally acquired these gears with the intention of installing them into my 4 cylinder transmission to give the truck better acceleration from low speeds in 1st and 2nd. Since I have giant 33” rear tires now (vs. 30” before) these gears will still be helpful. The only problem with these later gears is that there's a bigger spread from 2nd to 3rd but with the powerful and torquey 283 Chevy that shouldn't be any concern.



Getting Started



Many years ago my Dad constructed this simple work stand from scrap aluminum angle and channel. It is an absolute patience saver. It's incredibly frustrating trying to work on a transmission while it's rolling all over the work bench. I highly recommend that anyone who will be working on one of these transmissions build some kind of a stand to hold the trans upright and steady.



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Here is the clean transmission case mounted to the work stand. The case model that I am using is a “48” which first appeared in 1935. It features a thicker bottom and wider reinforcement rib along the bottom than the “18” cases used in 1932 – 1934. The most popular case version is the “78” which was first used in 1937 and used through 1939 and in trucks up into the early 50's. It has an even thicker bottom and the oil drain back hole for the front bearing is in a different location. This case was donated so I can't complain.



The case was bead blasted, all of the threaded holes chased with the appropriate taps and thoroughly washed to ensure there were no glass beads left behind – anywhere! I can't stress enough how important cleaning the case after bead blasting is. Glass beads or sand left behind absolutely destroy bearings and bushings.



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Besides carefully inspecting the case for cracks or other fatal physical damage, the inner cluster gear thrust surfaces need to be looked at closely. These are the flat circular surfaces below the front and rear bearing holes. If they are heavily worn or grooved the case is done and should not be used because there will be excessive end play in the cluster gear that could lead to gear damage in use.



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Bearing Snap Rings



If the front and rear large ball bearings are going to be replaced with new bearings the snap rings from the original bearings must be saved and re used! The snap rings that come with new bearings are thinner than originals by .012” and are a sloppy fit in the bearing groove. Ironically, the grooves in new bearings are the correct width. By using the incorrect snap rings a total of .024” end play is introduced into the upper gear train. That means that every time 2nd or 3rd gear are selected that the entire gear train displaces .024” before the actual gear shifting starts to happen. This can lead to a transmission that will not shift correctly.



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Here is an original snap ring fit into the groove of a new front bearing. Note that it is a tight fit in the groove.



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Here is a new snap ring fit into the groove of the same new bearing with my fingers pulling it to one side of the groove to show the .012” gap left. NOT GOOD!



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With the bearings sorted out the fit of both front and rear bearing sneed to be checked in their corresponding holes in the transmission case. The fit should be essentially precise. If there is radial slop this means that the hole is worn and the bearing and gear train will not be properly located resulting in poor transmission function and possibly gear damage.



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Syncronizer Blocker Rings



Up until a couple of years back new USA syncronizer brass blocker rings were available. Unfortunately, that is no longer the case. The USA blocker rings were 100% correctly made and the fit & function was perfect. The currently available blocker rings are foreign made (India, I think...), are not made correctly and require modification to fit & function correctly. Shown below is a foreign blocker ring on the left and a USA blocker ring on the right.



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With the rings held back-to-back it is clearly obvious that the 3 notches on the USA blocker ring (left) are deeper than the foreign blocker ring (right.) When measuring with a caliper from the edge of the blocker ring (tooth side) to the bottom of the notches the USA blocker ring is exactly .300” thick. When measuring the foreign blocker ring in the same manner it is .330”, a difference of .030”! When the upper gear train in the transmission is fully assembled and installed the blocker rings are supposed to be loose and free (when 2nd and 3rd gears are not engaged) so that they do not drag and bind on the 2nd and 3rd speed gears. With an overall extra thickness of .060” introduced this causes the upper gear train to be bound up making it barely possible to spin the trans by hand because the blocker rings are dragging on the gears. Not only is this hard on the trans but it will prematurely destroy the blocker rings due to the friction surface constantly dragging and the excessive heat it creates. (Just like dragging brakes or a slipping clutch.)



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We happen to have a few new USA blocker rings stashed for personal use and that is what I will be installing. If new USA blocker rings are not available to you, the foreign blocker rings must be modified to work properly by filing the three notches deeper by .030”, or until they measure exactly .300” from the edge of the blocker ring (tooth side) to the bottom of the notches. Make sure sure that all three notches are exactly the same so that the blocker rings apply evenly to the gears when the syncronizer pushes on them. Below are 3 new foreign blocker rings. The upper is out of the package while the lower pair have been filed to the correct dimension.



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A back-to-back view showing the unmodified blocker ring (left) and modified blocker ring (right.) The difference in depth of the notch is obvious.



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TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY – PART 2



Dry Test Assembly



I always do a full, dry test assembly of the transmission. Final assembly with gaskets and sealer is not the time to find and deal with a problem. The transmission is fully assembled and test shifted through all four gears before moving on to final assembly.



Shown below are the cluster gear, front bearing (shorter), bearing spacer sleeve, rear bearing (longer) and counter shaft. The bearings and shaft are original. After a close inspection they were deemed acceptable to use. Had they not been, new bearings and shafts are readily available. At minimum I prefer to reuse the original counter shaft because the new ones are ever-so-slightly under size and not as tight of a fit in the transmission case. This doesn't cause any problems from a functional or reliability stand point but does create a greater possibility for future oil leaks even with the addition of sealer on the ends of the shaft.



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The rearward end of the cluster gear has a large, thick thrust washer. There are a couple of different designs for the way that they interlock with the end of the gear. The one I'm using features four locating tabs that fit into the corresponding slots in the end of the gear.



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The front thrust washer for the cluster gear is smaller and thinner. It does not interlock with the end of the gear. Rather, it has a pressed tab that fits into a slot in the transmission case which keeps it from rotating.



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With the cluster gear bearings (shorter bearing to front, longer bearing to rear) and spacer sleeve inserted into the gear, the gear and thrust washers are lowered into place and the counter shaft that they ride on is inserted into the rear of the case, through the gear and it's bearings and into the front of the case. The gear is spun by hand and it should spin free and easily. End clearance is checked between the rear thrust washer and case. It should be .004-.008”. If the end play is greater it most likely means that the thrust surfaces of the case are worn. If the end play is less it could mean that one or both of the new thrust washers is too thick. The washers can be lightly sanded to get the end play in spec. I rarely find that the end play is too tight.



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This is the reverse-idler gear and it's shaft. During initial inspection of the trans gears I slide the gear onto its shaft and try to wiggle it to check for excessive bushing slop. If the slop is excessive the gear should be replaced. The gear is set into position with the shoulder of the gear to the rear and the shaft is inserted through the back of the case. Once the gear is in place the cluster gear is spun by hand and it should still spin free and easy.



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This is the main drive gear, it's bearing and bearing baffle.



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The baffle is slid onto the gear so that the center dished portion faces the gear. There will usually be witness marks from the edges of the gear teeth on the baffle which helps as a reminder as to which direction the baffle fits.



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The bearing is installed onto the gear using a hydraulic press. When installed it should be firmly against the baffle and the baffle firmly against the gear teeth. There is also a snap ring that fits into the groove just above the bearing. It is not installed at this time.



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The main drive gear can not simply be inserted into the front of the transmission at this point because the smaller ring of dog teeth will not clear past the large front gear on the cluster. To allow the main drive gear to fit the counter shaft (that the cluster gear rides on) must be removed allowing the cluster to drop to the bottom of the case. Note in the picture below that the cluster gear is dropped and that the rear thrust washer is below the flat circular rear thrust surface of the case.



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The main drive gear is then inserted into the case. If an early “18” case or Model B case is being used it's important to know that the inside bottom of the case is not as deep as the later cases. This means that the cluster gear will not drop down far enough to allow the main drive gear to be installed. It can still be done through a frustrating process of installing the bearing onto the gear with the gear in the trans case using a special home-made pressing tool. It's best to avoid this situation whenever possible.



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After confirming that the main drive gear can be installed without interference of the cluster gear the bearing snap ring can be installed. Before installing the snap ring it needs to be modified because the way that it is made does not allow snap ring pliers to be used because of the way the ends are cut. Shown below is a stock snap ring (left) and modified snap ring (right.) Should the transmission ever have to come apart again doing this simple modification will save a lot of frustration!



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Snap ring installed.



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TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY – PART 3



Continuation Of Dry Test Assembly



These are the parts that make up the syncronizer assembly. They include the inner hub, outer sliding collar, 3 “shoes”, 3 detent springs and 3 detent balls.



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To assemble the syncronizer the 3 shoes fit into the 3 slots and the detent springs and balls are inserted into the center holes in the shoes. Will the shoes, springs and balls in place the outer sliding collar is installed. Coordinating all of this is a bit tricky but is easily done once you're used to it.



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The assembled syncronizer looks like this. The taller center shoulder of the inner hub and the shoulder of the sliding collar should face the same direction.



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With the syncronizer assembled the new blocker rings are test fit to ensure that they mesh with the splines in the sliding collar properly. The 3 shoes fit into the 3 slots on the blocker rings.



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These are all of the parts that make up the main shaft assembly. Shown are the main shaft, 2nd gear spacer ring, 2nd gear, brass spacer washer, syncronizer assembly, small spacer ring and snap ring. During initial inspection I slide 2nd gear onto the shaft and try to wiggle it to check for excessive bushing slop. If the slop is excessive the gear should be replaced. I also inspect the 2nd gear washer and brass washer for excessive wear and replace if needed.



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To assemble the main shaft the 2nd gear washer is installed. One of it's slots needs to be aligned with the pin in the shaft.



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2nd gear is slid into position.



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The brass spacer washer is slid into position.



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One of the blocker rings is set into place on 2nd gear.



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The syncronizer assembly is slid into place making sure that it's 3 shoes fit into the 3 slots on the blocker ring.



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The snap ring is installed into the groove just above the syncronizer.



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At this time spin 2nd gear to ensure that it turns free and easily. The blocker ring should be loose and free to wiggle slightly between 2nd gear and the syncronizer. This is where the importance of the depth of the 3 slots in the blocker ring comes into play. If the slots are not deep enough the shoes in the syncronizer will bear against the bottom of the slots and push the blocker ring against 2nd gear not allowing it to turn freely. Lastly, the end clearance in the stack of parts is checked with feeler gauges between 2nd gear and the steel washer. End play should be .004” to .008”. If the end play is too great the brass spacer washer is probably worn and should be replaced. If the end play is too small the brass spacer washer is too thick and can be thinned until the correct end play results.



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The small spacer ring is installed onto the pilot of the shaft and the pilot bearing is installed.



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The low-reverse sliding gear is installed onto the spiral splines of the main shaft.



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The 3rd gear blocker ring is set into position.



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The complete main shaft assembly is then set into place in the case.



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The front main drive gear is then inserted into the case and the pilot bearing of the main shaft fits into the gear. It will take a little bit of wiggling to get the main shaft assembly fully seated into the main drive gear.



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A temporary bolt and washer are installed that press against the bearing snap ring and holds the bearing and main drive gear firmly in place.



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This is the rear bearing and baffle.



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The baffle is installed through the rear hole in the case with the dished center portion against the back of the main shaft, similar to the front bearing baffle. The bearing is then installed. The bearing is a very light press fit onto the shaft and should go on part way by hand and can be driven on the rest of the way with a piece of tubing and a mallet.



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When the rear bearing is fully installed it and the baffle should be firmly against the end of the main shaft and the bearing snap ring should be firmly against the transmission case. Install a temporary bolt and washer to hold the rear bearing in place like the front. The cluster gear must now be lifted back into place and the counter shaft reinstalled. To accomplish this insert an index finger through the front and rear counter shaft holes and into the cluster gear. Lift it up into place with your fingers. Removed your rear finger while leaving your front finger in place to continue holding up the cluster gear. Insert the counter shaft. The finished assembly should look like this and spin free and easily by turning the front shaft of the main drive gear. Note that the low-reverse sliding gear is in neutral between the reverse-idler gear and low gear on the cluster.



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Slide the low-reverse gear fully forward so that it engages low gear on the cluster. Turn the front shaft by hand. It should still turn free and easily.



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Slide the low-reverse gear fully rearward so that it engages the reverse-idler gear. Turn the front shaft by hand. It should still turn free and easily.



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Return low-reverse sliding gear to the neutral position. Slide the syncronizer collar rearward to engage 2nd gear. Turn the front shaft by hand. It should still turn free and easily.



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Slide the syncronizer collar forward to engage 3rd gear. Turn the front shaft by hand. It should still turn free and easily.



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If there is no binding present in neutral or any of the 4 gear positions at this time the dry run test assembly is complete and successful. The counter shaft can be removed, the cluster gear lowered to the bottom of the case, the main drive gear removed and the main shaft assembly removed in preparation for final assembly. At this time I will disassemble the main shaft assembly stack, apply a film of engine oil to the 2nd gear bushing, friction surfaces of the blocker rings, brass spacer washer and pilot bearing then reassemble the main shaft stack. DO NOT apply any oil or any other lubricant to the cluster gear, bearings or thrust washer. They will need to remain dry and clean for the sealing process during final assembly.

 

TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY – PART 4



With the test assembly successful it's time to move on to final assembly. To start the process the main shaft assembly, rear bearing & baffle and front main drive gear are reinstalled using the process outlined earlier. The temporary bolts and washers to retain the bearings are also reinstalled. The reverse-idler shaft is removed and wiped down with acetone and a white paper towel using the process I outlined during the steering gear write-up. The key to successful sealing is having all of the surfaces receiving sealer being CLEAN. In addition to the reverse-idler shaft I also clean the counter shaft and the bores in the transmission case that the shafts fit into.

I also do not use any kind of grease on any of the parts as an "assembly lube". I have seen people do this including a once prominent transmission rebuilder. That particular person used white lithium grease all over everything. The problem with that is that white grease hardens over time. A lot of people in this old car hobby end up taking years to complete a car project. Meanwhile, their rebuild trans is sitting and the grease is hardening. I redid several of this persons transmissions that had hardened white grease in them plugging up oil transfer holes in the gears and other lubrication pathways. Greases do break down when mixed with oil but it's not instantaneous and even fresh grease can temporarily block oiling passage ways. I just don't think it's a good idea.

When thoroughly clean I reinstall the reverse-idler shaft but leave it poking out roughly the thickness of the case.



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With the counter shaft clean I reinstall it also leaving it poking out roughly the thickness of the case. I also use the cross retaining pin to align the holes in the shafts so that they will be in proper position when pushed fully into the case.



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At the front the counter shaft should be just short of fitting into the hole in the case.



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I slather on a healthy amount of Permatex Ultra Black silicone to the exposed portions of the reverse-idler shaft and counter shaft.



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I coat the front counter shaft hole with sealer.



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The shafts are then pushed into position and the cross pin temporarily inserted to ensure the shafts are in proper alignment.



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The cross retaining pin is removed and covered in a healthy coating of sealer then reinstalled. The ends of the shafts will be slightly below the surface of the case. I then pack them full of sealer making sure to push it into the seams of the shafts/bores thoroughly. The counter shaft will protrude out of the front hole. I pack sealer into the seam and cover the area thoroughly.



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The front bearing retainer is cleaned thoroughly and a new seal installed.



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The temporary bolt and washer holding the front bearing is removed. I apply a film of oil to the new seal and to the machined sealing surface on the shaft. I apply a film of sealer to the mating surfaces of the bearing retainer and transmission case then install the retainer with a new gasket and new lock washers on the bolts. The bolt threads also receive sealer as the bolt holes are open to the inside of the case. If original bolts are not available use new ones making sure that they are the correct length so that they do not protrude into the case where they could potentially interfere with the front gear of the cluster.



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The rear bearing retainer / trans mount are made up of these pieces. 1932 through 1936 used the same retainer casting and large ring but with different rubber mounts specific to the vehicle year. In 1937 the retainer was changed to a 1-piece casting with mounting ears on either side that sat on rubber biscuits like the front motor mounts. New rubber mounts are available for '32-'36 but the inner casting and large ring must be reused. My mount is an original that has had the rubber replaced which used to be the only way to have new rubber. Although it's been in there since the early 80's it's still in excellent condition so there's no reason to replace it.



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The bearing retainer / mount is assembled by inserting the four T-head bolts with the thick part of the head to the inside.



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The retainer then fits into the rubber and the heads of the T-bolts fit into the 4 slots in the rubber.



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The transmission side of the retainer fit into the rubber mount and the large outer ring.



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Without the rubber mount I mock up with retainer and large ring onto the back of the transmission with new lock washers on the bolts. The bolts are then moved around until their safety wire holes line up in a circle. Once I'm happy with the alignment of the safety wire holes I mark the order of the bolts so I know exactly where they go during final assembly of the bearing retainer / mount with gaskets and sealer.



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With the back surface of the transmission case thoroughly cleaned a film of sealer is applied along with the gasket. I then apply a film of sealer to the gasket.



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Sealer is applied to these surfaces of the bearing retainer and to the threads of the bolts.



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The bearing retainer / mount is then assembled onto the back of the transmission. I tighten the 6 retainer bolts in a cris-cross pattern like a 6-lug wheel. Once the bolts are tight I install 18-gauge mechanics wire through the safety wire holes.



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After the front and rear bearing retainers are installed I test spin the transmission once more in neutral and all four gears just to be sure. I then set the trans aside and let it dry over night.

 

TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY – PART 5



Final Preparation



After allowing the transmission to sit over night so that the silicone sealer fully hardens I then mask the top opening, inner portion and mating surface on the rear bearing retainer and the sleeve of the front bearing retainer. I also install the drain and fill plugs and plug the grease fitting holes for the clutch shaft bushings.



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I had already determined that the new clutch shaft fit into the existing bushings perfectly so it was not necessary to replace the bushings. If the fit of the bushings is loose with an original shaft I always check the fit with a new shaft and often times the fit is good. The new shafts are exactly 7/8” while originals are slightly under size. If the bushings are physically damaged in any way they should be replaced.



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When using a new shaft it is necessary to slightly ream the inside of the clutch release fork and outer lever. I use an adjustable reamer and sneak up on it so that they are a precise fit.



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With the clutch shaft and levers fit the transmission was removed from the work stand and the front mating surface masked and the entire trans wiped down with a clean towel and accetone.



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The inside is painted in dark Ford engine green then turned on end and the outside is painted. The nice thing is that since the mating surface is masking tape the trans can be turned on end immediately.



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The clutch release lever, throwout bearing hub, inspection cover and cover retainer screws are painted black.



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At this time the transmission is complete aside from assembling the clutch shaft after all the paint has dried. I hope this was helpful to some of you. We offer this service to customers so if you don't feel confident in doing it yourself we can help. Next week I will be rebuilding the shifter tower and will fully cover that as well.