I have a very nice frame it's stock I was wondering if boxing the frame is strong enough to support a 350 chevy. In my attempts to research I have not found anything other than guys using a 31 frame instead. Is there a golden box to building one of these cars? It's very stressful trying to figure this thing out. I should mention it's a 29 model a special coupe.
Same frame 1928-1931. And yes, boxing it will make it strong enough, unless you put an 8-71 on top of that 350.
Dean is right, I am using the same frame, been on the road for 25 years, now with a 331 Ford, and I abuse it regularly. In addition to boxing, it is important to install the right crossmembers to keep it from twisting. I built an X member setup in the middle as well as a crossmember under the engine. Made it very rigid. Don
I have an amazing machine shop teacher I just can't find any prints on what and where to install the pieces to strengthen it when I Google it just says use a 32 frame for the most part...extremely stress full it's a brand new reman frame I think not a mark on it.. other than the holes obviously. My dreams c4 independent suspension but a straight axle works just as long as I can cruise the summer.
Here you go: http://www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com/ModelAboxingplates.html http://www.dagelsstreetrods.com/super_x_crossmember.htm Don't worry, this is well-traveled territory, and we are here to help. Axles are king here. You will want one of those too, dropped. Mine came from here: http://www.joesspeedshop.com/projects.htm Pete and Jakes ladder bars, and a stock style spring work pretty well in the rear: Find a Ford 9" from a first-generation Ford Bronco (1966-1977). It will work for most body styles.
Here's an original '29 A frame we built up, boxed, small Z with a fabricated an X member and tube rear crossmember. 9" rear with homemade ladder bars in the back and a dropped A axle, split '40 bones in the front. 283 and 700r4. Coils in the rear and a low Posies spring in the front. Put a full fender mild chop 2 dr body on it. Car sat right and was a good driver.
I wouldn't know where to begin on copying that from a picture. You guys have some amazing tallent. So you built yours from scratch?
I really need a how to or something that frame looks amazing. I wanted a 350 700r ideally with a ford 9 inch
All a series of small steps. Once you add it all up, it looks really cool. If we can pull it off, so can you.
Well I am a school teacher an auto teacher oddly. No experience in hotrod or fabrication. We have a full out machine shop the guy can do anything have no idea where to start I am actually extremely stressed about it
Sounds excellent I will for sure I'd love a book on frame buidling. Also some body work questons would also help. But I'll ask those once the frame is happening
Front view, most everything homemade except the aftermarket front cross-member. No fancy trick show stuff; just simple fabricating. Like the man says, one step at a time.
What part of that is stock? Frame rails? Boxed added the x. Any particular location where the x is required? Also will that ruin my stock floor pan set up? Half the car bolts to it I'd hate to have to start that part from scratch too Shawn
Started with a stock A frame. Welded anchor nuts inside the rails for the body and running board mounts. Cut out boxing plates and tack welded into the frame. Replaced bad stock front cross-member with an aftermarket piece. Put the front end together with main leave only and set into place with appropriate sized roller tires. Made some flat bar and muffler clamp gizmos and put the rear in place at ride with correct size roller tires. Mounted radiator and fitted the engine (and mechanical fan) to fit lengthwise and about the same crank height as the A engine was. Fabbed the front mounts and made a temporary bar to hold the trans. Built the X-member to clear everything including the mufflers. Then built the rear ladder bars to fit. Then welded a couple of braces and cut off the original rear crossmember. Fabbed a new crossmember out of rectangular tube similar to an aftermarket one and welded it on with short sections of the same tube to make the step. Fitted up some old CE coil mounts, modified a P&J panhard bar to work. Put the rest of the front spring together and now that the weight was on the front made some shock mounts and the rear wishbone mounts. Added a few brackets for brake hoses and e-brake cables, etc. Blew it all apart, finish welded, some grinding and sanding, another trip to the blaster, and some paint. The body bolts down in the stock location up to the last cross sill; past that the subrails need to be trimmed to drop over the step and new rear body mounts made. None of this is really complicated or hard to do, just a little pre-planning and one step at a time and a lot of clamps.
Check for warpage - weld - check for warpage - weld - check for warpage - weld - check for warpage - stop welding - drink a beer - check for warpage - repeat.
It doesn't get any more basic than mine, but there is no twist and I am running 424 hp through it and I ride it hard a lot. The K or X members are the key to keeping these A frames from twisting like a pretzel. Don
Well your dad has not set up his front end properly. As Rich says, he needs to fix it, and there have been plenty of threads on here about that.
I believe it has a caster issue I am in British Columbia. He is in Ontario. What do you guys think with fenders or without?
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