Technical *** October 2015 Banger Meet - Shadows Getting Shorter in Aus and NZ ***

Using the 283 Chev style piston can be done, it is still a compromise.
I just had a set of customs quote by J&E, $625 U.S per set, rings, pins and clips included.
Ross, Venolia to mention a couple more are compe***ive, cost and quality.
If you want original split skirt type pistons, they are still available.

J

 

Just received another update from Tod. Here is the very first aluminium head casting. Right out of the mold with no clean up at all. It heads to heat treat tomorrow and then it will be brought back for clean up. Getting close now

 

Why do you say a compromise John? . For racing ? because they are a casting as opposed to a forging? No expense spared is the race rule though, isn't it?
I don't think forged pistons are necessary or even a wise choice for a street engine.
I wonder who makes the pistons for Petes , and what the silicon content of the alloy is? I looked through some of the KB hyper-eutectic piston catalog earlier and they have quite a few 4 " pistons with a very close compression height . I wonder of they would sell them either machined for taller compression height and with no valve reliefs, or as a blank to be machined. I know of a company here who has forged blanks from Ross.
Egge and JP both list cast split skirt pistons at very reasonable prices, in a variety of sizes .... OK for a street engine.

What are your specs for custom pistons you were quoted on?

 

Race motors aside, the Chev piston is a good pc. At one time, very available, made by many noteworthy mfgrs.
I still have a TRW catalog with all the dimensions and use it as a reference do***ent, too bad it doesn't go back to the '20s.
In your words, "KB hyper-eutectic piston catalog earlier and they have quite a few 4 " pistons with a very close compression height . I wonder of they would sell them either machined for taller compression height and with no valve reliefs, or as a blank to be machined." Sure they will, just give them all the dimensions, and order a few sets.
I would bet the cost will not be the same as the catalog, I could be wrong though.

If you are going to go through all that, specify what you want and order.
I am sure that you could buy a semi finished piston, maybe just the final cam grind done and you could machine up the rest.
It is just not that easy.
I will admit to being lazy, I could make my own, but why, if you get it all wrong the results could be real ugly. Not to mention that we just don't run down the street anymore to get another block.

So, the specs quoted; (not race motor, hot street application)
4" hole
1.80 CH .927 pin
.465 full dia dome for final setting of CR
1.5, 1.5, 3.0 ring pkg

J

 

Isn't it gonna have the Winfield script?

 

I use the Best 573G with my Winfield repop Al head haven't blown one yet. This is, of course, for the B. The police head might use the A gasket.

 

OK those specs are very close to a 302 Chevy, so you must have the cuatom rods with chevy pin size?
I was working on stock rods and pistons with compression height of 1.90625 and pin hole diameter of .9996 .

These looked very close https://www.uempistons.com/index.php?main_page=product_piston_info&cPath=3_4_23&products_id=3043

The have a tall top land which could be customised and the pin diameter is very close, just a reamer away. The pins are centered so that eliminates the thrust issue with Chevy pistons.
Weight is lighter than stock Model A, price looks good, two sets for under $600. Surely if they delete the valve eyebrow from the machining cycle , it shouldn't cost more?

 

If they work for your application, good. You might want to consider using a solid body hone to size the pin holes, rather than a reamer. (sunnen)
And yes, a set of Cunningham rods, just a smidge longer than stock. Miller High-Speed head and going in a Vickey.
I would not bet on getting them without the valve relief cuts being less expensive.

One thing I love about this hobby, you have choices.
J

 

Just spoke with Luke at Newens equip co last night. He's wrapping up the patterns for his side drive magneto adapter. He is selling the adapter along with the gear drive and magneto as a package. For the guys who were interested when I posted mine the first time I would get in touch with him as most of the run is spoken for and going quick. He's also working out the details for his own head design that will be available soon.

 

Thanks Bill! I wish I had a Winfield, but alas, my wallet says otherwise.

Everyone...As far as an A head gasket, which is better...the full copper or the "modern design"??? Are there better options than these two?

 

Sorry to rub it in, but this arrived in the mail today. It is supposed to be have been crack tested and OK, but I am going to have it checked again for peace of mind.

 

I was always under the ***umption that the heads were going to include the Winfield script, but a recent post by Tod on the FordBarn said that they won't include the Winfield script.

 

Nice piece!!!!!


.

 

subject change ... has or is anyone using the 1 piece rear main seal (model a) from H&H ? if so do you use sealer on the edges (main cap & block) ? thanks .. steve
***** H&H says goop both groves that the seal sets in ..........******

 

That's a bummer, I would buy one if it had the script.

BTW, nice red head!

 

I personally would use a best 509G Best does make a "Copper" A head gasket probably a 509C which I ***ume is what you mean when you say "Copper" . There are gaskets made from solid Copper and gaskets called Copper clad meaning they have a thin piece of Copper on one side. When I say Copper gasket I mean a solid Copper gasket.

 

Wallet has nothing to do with it, I haven't seen an original one at any price for over 6 months.......

 

which is better...the full copper or the "modern design"???
solid copper is used with "o" ringed blocks . the "best" gasket works great for me . that + copper coat is really good . 7-1 head .
(this is "steel head")

 

I remember that one, I wanted it so bad but I already have a crow's foot Winfield red head.
I'm fighting a bad case of Banger Speed Parts Hoarding!
Not to change the subject, I thought maybe you guys would like to see what I'm doing to lighten up my rotating m***, being I'm going to be running a harmonic balancer with my replaced drilled C crankshaft.
Also wanted to say **** wasn't really working with me on replacing the $1,955.00 4.50 stroker crank I broke. But I bought it through H and H and Max Sr says he will help! My fingers are crossed!
Here's my 70 75 billet flywheel. It still needs the steel insert installed.

 

Very Nice work, Good Job!!
What are the cam boxes for??
J

 

Some of us could help you with that hoarding problem.....

Where can I find the specs to use to lighten an A flywheel to use in a B transmission with a v8 pressure plate? I thought I saw the specs somewhere , but can't find them.

 

Page one of every banger meet holds all the resources ....it is right there. !!

 

Thanks, but I can't take full credit for the work. It's a project that a friend of mine is training me on using a milling machine. He's the one who got me Neil Jerns Milling machine. Neil was the man who made the overhead conversion kits for the T, A and B engines. My friend did all the machine work for Neil when Neil wasn't feeling well. Sadly Neil has p***ed a little over a year ago. (R.I.P.)
As for the cam boxes, I didn't think anyone would notice!
The owner of the head they're going on is a VERY private and COMPE***IVE person.
It's not something I can talk about! I wish I could though, cause you guys would totally LOVE it!
Joe

 

Ha Ha, I bet you guys can help! The only way I can justify buying Banger speed parts, is if I need it to get my car running or to upgrade. Sometimes I buy just to collect cool old rare speed equipment.
I don't think of it as Hoarding if I keep myself from having more than one of the same piece.
Joe

 

awesome aluminum work !

 

Yes it is. Thanks, Iv'e been fortunately able to be learning from one of the best in the industry!
But, like I said the credit really belongs to my friend!
Joe

 

I think some of the specs have been recorded incorrectly for the flywheel machining. Just make sure you get the updated or correct specs

 

Wow Joe that's quite impressive

 

I bought an A block at the big San Diego swap in 1995 while gathering pieces for my future Winfield build. The block was .080 over and the guy said he had put new rings and a valve job but hadn't done anything as far as adjusting lower end and had shook a rod loose. I pulled it down and the bore looked good so I bought a new set of pistons from a major supplier of vintage engine parts. I went a different route on the build and didn't use the the .080 pistons. So now I have a diamond A block with .080 overbore so I rummaged around and found those .080 pistons still wrapped in their 1995 newspapers. I weighed them out of curiosity and found, to my surprise, that one was 5 grams lighter than the others. The other 3 were within 2 grams. They all have the same mold number? but the one had a thinner head. the difference being the distance from the bottom of the skirt to the underside of the piston head. I wasn't going to toss them and I'm sure the supplier would prolly laugh at me so I will show you what I did. I'm gonna run them under a 7 to 1 Winfield head.

 

I see the correction but not the overall spec