The price of a new core depends a lot on the type of core used, and no doubt where it is getting done. Here is an example not entirely applicable but just to give you an idea. About 6 years ago I needed the radiator for a '62 Chevy re-cored. I had two prices to look at 650 if it was re-cored with the proper looking core or 400 with a generic core. The car was not a restoration and the only time you would really see the core in it was if you looked behind the fan shroud anyway so the 400 dollar core was more then viable. On your A the proper looking core is going to be a must so going generic is not going to be a viable option. You are correct on swap meet prices by the way. I got my good '29 radiator priced at 300 and it is priced well. On a different subject while your sedan is a '28 or that is what we suppose (you would have a better idea you have the numbers at your disposal) it may very well be registered originally as a '29. back when that car was new it was not a big deal to clear the last models at year change and lots of times one could buy a new car a year old at a relative bargain. Many states registered cars as the year that they were first registered not by actual model year. Now as for our guess to model year, we are going primarily by the radiator. As mentioned earlier numbers will actually tell the story, it could very well be that the car lost a radiator and that one was one purchased at a dealership who had it in stock or one was purchased at a wrecking yard. it was not uncommon even when I was a young man to get the parts needed at a wrecking yard that fit and the year was not a concern, we are not restorers we were drivers and needed to get from point A to point B. We didn't invent frugality we learned it from people who had survived The Great Depression.
As for the year I'm pretty sure the car is a 28' but it has a black steering wheel rather than a red one like the early 28's did. By the numbers I'm pretty sure the numbers read on the engine block it is a 1928 that was built in the Windsor, Canada plant.
Thanks again for posting the pictures and explaining how you did it! Next time I go up to the shop in a few days I will finish pulling the tank out and clean it and reseal it because you made it look way too easy! [emoji38]
Thanks for the great pics, it puts my mind at ease knowing how to remove the tank without damaging it!
It happened to mine....if the rest of the engine is really clean. it shouldn't be a problem. It's when you dump new oil in a old engine that it is an issue because it starts circulating all that crud vs. trapping it.
Well I did say my tank cleaning is trial and error and I have made a big error with the yellow tank. I decieded to make a full gasket for the fuel cap so I could roll it over and give the top of the tank a good soaking. I should have loosened or removed the bung in the bottom because the weather is mild here at the moment thought it wouldn't be much expansion. My dismay when i turned it back over. So which ever way you have your tank sitting to make sure it can still vent. Didn't really think my bungs and gaskets I made were that good. I'm off to the paint shop with the grey tank.
The really sad part is I just gave the tank a quick wash inside and it's cleaned it up completely. Those couple of bits you see are just loose stuff as I only gave it a quick wash out.
There is usually a number on the face of the ignition lock , any good lock smith can make you a key. If you have a problem PM me the number I'll make you a key.
My engine is pretty clean so hopefully it will be ok. I totally cleaned the oil pan out and rebuild the oil pump with the kit from Mac's and made sure the oil return pipe was clean with new gaskets as well. When it's running I'll drive it a bit and keep an eye and ear on it. Maybe do a few low mile oil changes to see what's happening.
Yeah that looks pretty clean and you cleaned the pan. I think you will be good to go. If it was mine I would run a quart of ATF with the oil change after I got the pan on, maybe run it for an hour. then drain and fill again. Just to help get any other stuff it may have in there.
Well I got my fuel tank out today! It was very easy indeed I don't care what anyone says! From start to finish it literally took about an hour and 20 minutes. The biggest pain in the***** about it is probably either feeding the wires back through the whole or getting to a few of the clamp bolts. Just had to pull a few wires loose from the fuse block and then with a 3/8 socket with a quarter inch ratchet and a 7/16 open and wrench for the nuts on the other side. And then basicallyyou pull the wires back through the tank with the speedo cable and it should lift right out with a little wiggling.
I ended up getting the tires from Lucas Classic Tires. I like the tread pattern and they were $99 bucks.
Beautiful, they look like mine when they came back. I accidentally dropped a tire iron on the spokes when installing the tire, very happy to find no damage but don't recommend you try. Clean the powder coat from where the lug nuts seat before you install them. Charlie Stephens
I used a little WD-40 and got them to slip on the rim by hand so that worked out well I did have the tire irons ready to go if I needed them. And yeah I was thinking it would be better to just take some sandpaper or a little small wire brush and get the powder coat the way from the Lugnuts holes.
They have 19's as well. http://www.lucasclassictires.com/475-500-19-LUCAS-Olympic-Tread-Blackwall-295p.htm
So I finally got to the point of checking the timing and it was 180 degrees off. Fired right up after that! Now I got it outside and tried to get it to move and no such luck. Even if I put the car in gear and push the starter it will not move? Any ideas before I tear it apart?
Maybe clutch? It won't even hold the car still if you put it in gear and push the car. Hopefully it's just frozen up from sitting and I can make it last for a bit.
Expand on your problem. I can't tell if the brake shoes are rusted to the drums and the car won't move or if the rear axle is broken and the car won't move when you let the clutch out. You should post your expanded description of the problem here and on fordbarn.com. Charlie Stephens
Sounds to me like your clutch plate is froze to the flywheel. Common on cars that sat for several years. If it is the problem, get somebody to push start you, then you can usually work it free by accelerating /decelerating/engaging and disengaging clutch pedal. 2nd gear would likely be your best choice to push start. Or maybe even get it started in neutral, get it rolling, and pop it in 2nd gear.
I started the car again today and when I put it in gear and let off the clutch pedal nothing happens, no engine rpm change and the car does not move at all. I put the shift lever in first gear and was able to push the car for several feet with no restriction at all.
If I take it apart I'll just put a new clutch disc and pressure plate in it but I was just trying to pick you guys brain to see if anyone has had this happen and if I can do anything with just removing the inspection plate on top of the transmission?
That sounds like you broke something in the rear end like an axle key or something else. Do you hear and grinding noises when you let out the clutch? I would start looking there. Another thought, when you say you put it in first gear are you sure it is really going there? Have you taken the top off of the transmission? Charlie Stephens
The Jalopy Journal
