Hot Rods '25 T Roadster Sports Rod.

LOVE it.. As I was reading started to think "locost" - you nailed it. What DOHC 4 from the 60's??? Alfa? What else was around then? Will have to check locost site for complete build.... Keep at it.

 

I haven't been on that site in a few years. How do we find your build thread? Gary

 

Wow...I didn't expect a Locost site!
Perfect fit...and I think most Hot Rodders at least can appreciate the connection!
Keep it HAMBy and keep it going!

 

An Alfa was my first thought too, but when I got the dimensions, it was too tall. I set myself some pretty tight parameters.
I wanted to use '26-'27 hood sides. I wanted the floor/belly pan to run from the grille shell to the rear of the turtle deck, so nothing could hang below, and I didn't want lots of blisters sticking up on the top of the hood. That meant I needed a short, not tall, engine that would be rev happy, lightweight, and give me about 100 bhp, and come with a compact 5-speed. Those parameters limited my choices, but I found this one. I am throwing away all the electrickery and injectors etc. I found a vacuum advance dizzy from an earlier series engine, and will make my own log style intake for a Weber carb. I'm hoping it will look period-ish with the intake looking like what it is. A home built speed part. I realize the engine and trans are OT for here, so I will limit any pictures of them in the build, but I think it will be in the spirit of the look I'm going for.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Go to the forums, then non traditional builds, and look for a '25 T Sports Rod being built by Limeykid!
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Stewart, I thought you said it was on the locost site. Iz be confused. Gary

 

I'm going to have to create an award that reflects my signature and you get the first one!

 

Where are you looking?
LocostUSA.com
Then "Discussion Forums"
Under "Build logs" "Non traditional builds log"
"Locost '25 T roadster Sports Rod"
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

This is the link. Easy this way. Gary
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17417&hilit=Locost+'25+T+roadster+Sports+Rod

 

Glad you got there.
Still feels a bit wrong giving a link to another forum. Feels like betrayal.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

found your build & finally found on Locostusa - wow - WOW - great build. Be following this one. Keep up the detail.

 

Look forward to seeing suspension build - your mock up doesn't seem to show much room for 1/4 springs up front. You going to use shackles at axle end? Do not think you need them - & steering; how will you fit them in place? Will be following this one for sure. Keep the faith; 54 days in hospital & I beat the C.

 

The T bucket with the small block Chevy engine is the one I was referring to. I don't remember the name of the driver but the car was called Tihsepa until the sanctioning body figured out what it spelled backwards. I remember that because it was also my Father in laws call sign in the Army Air Corp (later the Air Force)

 

It was Duffy Livingston , who later with Tom Medley, went on to invent/organize Go-Kart racing. The car was re-named the "Eliminator".
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

The 1/4 elliptical will mount to the outside of the bottom frame rails. That's why those tubes meet there, to spread the load. I will be using shackles at the axle, otherwise it will create bump-steer. I am mounting them to the axle with Model T rear perches. It's tight, but it fits. I have spent a lot of time mocking things up. I have had to change some things as tha way I had planned wouldn't work. I'm on track now! ( pun intended).
Cheers,
Stewart

 

Just a quick 5 minutes work today, that's all I'm up for.
I have always loved the "Lightweight" wheels that Dunlop made for Jaguar, for their race cars, in the '50s and '60s. I wanted that look for the roadster. The originals are very rare, and very expensive. There are repros, but they aren't cheap either. So a big fat "NO" for those 2 options.
I also the 1600 MGA steel disc wheels. A set of these I could afford!
What if Dunlop had made "Lightweight" wheels for MG as well.
I widened the rear wheels, drilled the extra holes, and had them painted the correct shade of silver. I then found the "Dunlop" decals in the UK. So today, I washed the tyre lube off the sidewalls, cleaned the wheels, and applied the decals!
Pretty much the look I wanted. Pretty much the budget I had. Win, win.
Thought I would include a picture of an original MGA wheel, a true "Lightweight" wheel, and mine.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Stewart, I've priced the new, billet replicas and at less than 500 per wheel (less shipping from the UK) they seem like a pretty good deal and are in my list of top 5 choices for my sports rod A coupe. Especially ifn you want to run Dunlops! Gary

 

Gary,
Yeah I had priced them out too, but the total cost to my door was nearly the whole budget for this car. I paid $150 for the wheels, $10 for the pair of wider rims, and $10 for the decals.
Not the same, I know, but I'm trying to make this look like what a hot rodder with limited funds, but with some tools and some skills, would have made. I like that they aren't exact copies, more a "what if".
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Stewart:
The wheels are a real smash! Dunlop wheel decals??? Those have to be rare. Clever placement of holes between the ovals make for 'authenticity'. Kudos for cleverness.
Extreme success in the framework, still dizzied by the engine mounts, esp. their variance, side to side.
My 2 liter BMW engine in my '23 T track car has abstract engine mounts, too...

 

Mike,
Actually the decals are repros and available in different sizes on eBay!
Oh, come on, you can't drop a line like "my bmw engine in my 23 T track car", without giving us some pictures!
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Looks like fun, I'm in!

 

I like your concept. The look is right. The Livingston roadster in a turn with tires planted is dynamite.
He built his with the latest engine at the time, a non traditional Chevy V8. That was after a flathead of course.
Duffys car and my tribute.

 

I have some saved pictures of a frame with the floor welded to the bottom of the rails, it's got lots of belled holes, louvres in the pan, a flattie, and red/orange steelies up front and wires out back. Can't find the pictures at the moment, don't know where I got them from, but I felt like kindred spirit. Was/is that yours? Love your roadster. Being a Brit, my first exposure to funky open wheel stuff was through what we called "specials". Yours has that same feel. A cross between a hot rod and a sports car, a "sports rod". The same feel I am aiming for with mine.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Some old dragsters would use 1/4 spring as bottom link without shackles and no hairpins just a top link. Friend did this on his model A pickup; chopped, channeled and shorten to drag race. Can understand if top link not same length would change caster as suspension moved but not see how affect bump steer. Your '37 axle tube or beam? And didn't you write somewhere your going to use cross steering? If not cross steer, drag link would have to be length spring & single link or big bump steer. Just trying to relate your build to mine - trying to minimize "stuff" hanging out in breeze on front suspension. Build it - following close.

 

Mike,
This is my understanding of what can happen, not saying it's correct, just my understanding.
If the 1/4 elliptic springs are used as control arms (radius arms), without shackles, their length will fluctuate as it cycles through a bump. If the bump is only on one wheel and it's spring, it will effectively lengthen the wheelbase on that side of the car. This would cause the car to turn. Roundy round racers call this stagger I think. It helps to turn the car left.
If I use a radius arm AND a 1/4 elliptic, without shackles, the radius arm is trying to keep the axle from moving backward or forward, and the spring will be trying to move the axle backward or forward. I think this would cause twist or stress somewhere. My plan is to use a 4-bar and 1/4 elliptics with shackles, with a '35 axle and spindles. The links will control the backward and forward movement, and the shackles will take care of the fluctuating length of the spring.
Clear as mud? I think I know what I think I'm trying to say .
I will be using a Corvair box in side steer, mounted as a cowl steer. The output shaft of the steering box and the rear mount points of the 4-links will all be on the same plane, which will be the hood/cowl line.
Gray Baskerville wrote an article years ago about keeping things in line, purely for aesthetics, so I like the rear mount of the radius rod or split wishbone to either line up with the back of the hood, or the leading edge of the door. With those mounts decided, the steering had to line up also. So I will mount the Corvair box so that the output shaft exits the body at the top corner of the hood side where it meets the cowl. This will make the 4-links the same length as the drag link.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

I follow - with cowl steer, 4 link same length & shackles on 1/4 springs should be good. Follow & agree with your plan - just trying to plan how eliminate "stuff" hanging out there. Right now I drawing up links to coil overs - not hamb friendly.... Love your build & detail.

 

Greetings from Alma, MI.
Love your project. Where in Michigan are you? I'd love an opportunity to see it in person.

Attached are a couple of photos of my modified roadster project. I am using upper and lower quarter eliptics, front and rear. If this system worked for Harry Miller, Fraser Nash, HRG, and GN, I figure it should work for me.

Chuck

 

Another WOW for "charlesf" - nice looking roadster & love the "new idea" front suspension. What r you planning for shocks? Going to be for street - right? Do you have or plan a build on H.A.M.B.? Would love to see more of this build - & old fashion enough to fit the HAMB...

 

I guess that is a tow bar I see in pictures - nice clean front end/suspension. Must see more - PLEASE.

 

Chuck,
I've seen pictures on here before as you have posted it under construction. Looks good further along. I agree using 1/4 elliptic for upper and lower without any radius arms shouldn't present any issues as the lengthen at the same rate, acting like a 4- link. I think the issue would come if springs without shackles are used with a radius arm.
I live in East Lansing, 5 blocks north of MSU. You are more than welcome to come down to look. PM me, and I'll give you my phone # and email.
Cheers,
Stewart.