Projects Bought another Ford today

Made a sort of patch panel and "contoured" it over a piece of tubing.This pic is as hacked.Please note I am NOT a bodyman! (but you will have noticed that already)

 

And put the patch in and started welding.At least its new metal.Tomorrow I will try to finish this mess and get it looking a bit more acceptable.

 

Spent most of the day redoing that patch.Better now,not good but better. I finally got the wire feed on the welder working right,that helped the welds a lot.Does anyone know how many of the body mounts on those cars had the square steel washers on them?My car had a total of 3,1 under each of the very front mounts and 1 on the 2nd mount back on the passenger side .

 

Got the rest of the undercoating off the drivers side today.I have 2 rusted body mounts on the drivers side,reckon I can rebuild them. The body is not as bad as some I have seen,but it does need some pieces replaced.

 

My other roll of spring poly got here today so I finished putting the rear springs together and put them on the frame.If I can find rear axle seals tomorrow I can put the rear end together and in place.At that point I can actually roll and steer the thing!

 

Looking at your welds and knowing your trying the best you can I'll just throw this out there. I try not to grind my sheet metal after I cut out the rust. It makes for a much thinner edge and a faster burn rate. I also don't use a Grinder disc. For a good weld all paint and rust should be removed. That crap burns and eats up your shielding gas. That then causes pin holes and stacking of weld along with burn out. Maybe try just using a Scotch bright disc and clean the metal to just clean without grinding into it. Then cut out the bad and fit the patch and weld it up. With good conditions and a fair amount of practice you too can be making panel seams like these. Hope you don't take this as a knock. I didn't know this either till someone told me.
The Wizzard

 

Thank you very much for your help sir! This is my first wire welder,I had always brazed sheet metal before.After the fact(of course) It occurred to me that an inside patch like that might work out better if I drilled holes and rosette welded it.What about that?

 

Plug welding can work. A lot of times it's difficult to clamp the 2 panels together tight enough to get a good weld. Then there is a gap and viberation that will cause filler to crack out. Cleko's work well for holding 2 panels together but they are a little spendy for the home builder. If lapping a panel is a must on a tight budget Think about a 5/16 hole on the top panel and maybe a # 6 pan head sheetmetal screw into the back panel. Space your holes maybe 1/2" apart for the complete joint. Do this as close to the edge of front panel as possible. Now remove the screws one at a time and plug weld your holes up. The new challange will be body working the new joint. Two panels together never seem to move as you want them to.
The Wizzard

 

I just had another thought. You said this is your first wire welder. If you were an old Stick Welder and Gas welder you are used to Pulling your welds to your stick. With wire feed you PUSH the weld. Not sure you knew that, could explain some of what I see in you above photo of the patch.
The Wizzard

 

Oh-no,I didn't know that! Thank you again sir.I bought the little wire welder specifically for sheet metal because since I retired it is a 75 mile round trip to the welding supply for O/A and because I figured in the long run it would cost less to run.I also kept seeing these really pretty welds other people did with them---

 

I guess we all are ditched the first versions in some jobs.Done that,been there etc...
I think there are not exact number for the body shims.They are added when there is a need for one,to get the doors or fenders align better.

 

Got two body mounts repaired today and did some work on the drivers side rear fender support-made a new one is what it amounted to.Welding is going MUCH better-thanks pist-n-broke!

 

Still fixing body mounts.I AM getting to where I can see the end of it! I will be glad to get back to mechanical work.

 

Glad I could help ya out.

 

Took a day to put the rear end back together.Looks nice,all cleaned and painted. To my amazement all
it needed was bearings and seals. should have it in the chassis this week.

 

Looks like I may be looking at mounting an engine by next weekish.I have intended to install the engine before the body goes back on the frame all along and see no reason to do otherwise,it is SO much easier that way.The problem I am having at this point is second thoughts.I really like the Fordillac idea but the 79 cad engine is kind of well, "new".I have several HAMB friendly options and would like some opinions.I have looked for an earlier Cad engine within a reasonable distance with (so far) no luck.I have a fresh 57 312 ford,a fresh 64 chev 283 but I really don't want an SBC in this car,and a variety (5) of pre 66 inline chevy 6s.I have a lot of period style speed and appearance equipment for those too,multi carb intakes,cast or tubular headers, Offy valve covers,aluminum tappet covers etc.I also have auto and manual trans setups for all the above.Any suggestions? Of course anything I install can always be removed if,in the future I come up with an earlier cad.

 

One thing to remember. All Hot Rods look grate at 60 miles an hour. Out of your listed choices I'd go with the 283 and a Stick shift. If a GM in a Ford bothers ya just remember that Caddy you were going to use is a GM product. With the hood down no ones gonna know or care. Just go have a good time driving it. Here is what's under the Hood of my 51 and it don't bother me a bit.
The Wizzard

 

Good point and thank you for the answer( and all your help).Anyone else?

 

Try classifieds on here hamb?
I've scored parts from there and so far all the deals have gone fine.
Maybe you'll find that early caddy motor from there..

 

I might Antti,but I was looking for one in Florida.

 

Progress! Rear end is in.Tomorrow it will roll and steer.

 

Rolling and steering is a big step forward. I know lowering blocks are traditional and all but with the body off and the spring mounts just begging for it. I'd have just moved them up the 3" and not messed with the blocks at all.
The Wizzard

 

I'd go for the Y-block...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/anybody-got-a-y-block-in-a-shoebox.177373/

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/y-block-to-shoebox-school-me.13396/

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/robert-mitchums-thunder-road-ford.631630/

 

It is amazing what you folks do OUTSIDE.Car is looking real nice. I used to work in my driveway as my 2 car (then) garage was full. I remember putting a water pump in my Jeep Wagoneer at 20 degrees below zero.Anyway I lke your project Keep the pictures coming.

 

Thank you Ahshoe.I have the same full garage problem,thats why I am outside.

 

Pist-n-Broke thanks for helping him with welding tips...thanks for hepling all of us with welding tips!

 

Your all welcome. It's the little things that can make the biggest difference isn't it?
The Wizzard

 

Well,it rolls and steers.I pushed it to the garage today and after a couple hours of "strategic rearranging" actually got it in there! Tomorrow I will see about making it stop too. The mangy red wheels are off the parts car and are fitted with some used tires I had.They made it MUCH easier to push on account of having air in them.

 

And I really did get it in the garage! I just have too much stuff.

 

Got the master cyl and pedal linkage on today .Had to make new bushings for the pedal shaft so that took up considerable time. Lucky I found a piece of brass stock big enough to turn them out of.This is what I started with.