I have an original '32 frame with both crossmembers in place.No rust or pitting. I have an original K member. When I placed the K member in the frame I found someone had welded 1/4 plate to the inside of the rails as wish bone brackets. These are in the way of the front legs of the K member. 3" wide plates are welded on all 4 sides. What to do.? Shorten the legs or cut the brackets and frame out. Problem is the plates are in the revel area. Any sgood and safe suggestions? Thanks Terry
Cut the old brackets out and repair the area. This was a common practice in the early years. Take your time and do the reveal area with some new metal.
Since you are in the bare frame stage, & can use the cutting torch successfully, lay the tip at 45degree angle & "Scarf" the welds out. Otherwise use the 90 degree small grinder & patience!
Tough spot to get to for sure, take your time and go slow, A 90 degree grinder would probably the least aggressive yet effective way to get it out. I would be scared to get to much heat in the rails trying to use a torch but that's just me, I always seem to cause damage when using a cutting torch. That's why I bought a plasma cutter!
Use a small grinder and a die grinder, and cut the weld away. Then clean up the original Ford metal. Nobody ever said saving '32's was easy.
… Before cutting the welds I would 1st check the penetration of those welds. If it was a poor job; cutting 3 sides then lifting the plate with a cold chisel could break the weld on the remaining side. If the welds really bit in you are going to play hell doing a neat job on the inside corners; If it’s a Hot Rod and they did a neat job leave em in there and shorten the frt legs the 1/4. I vote no on the cutting torch you would just be making more work for yourself in grinding time and possible warp those thin original Rails. You should add some photos.
Use a good quality thin cut off disc to suit your angle grinder, stay away from gas and plasma you will do more damage and have a bigger job to repair.
Are you building a roadster? With fenders? A stock framed roadster without fenders will twist more than you will believe. The fenders actually stiffen them up. That is why so many fenders cracked. I would go to the Chassis Engr center crossmember even if using a flathead and closed drive.
An example is the "Green Corps" line from 3M, higher cost but lasts much longer than what you get from HF.
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I have been using a cutoff disc and am trying to cut the side welds from the frame and then just cut the plate at the top and bottom leaving and inch or so attached to the frame leaving room to mount the K member arms.
A lot of the rivet holes have been welded up. Could someone give me a photo of the outside of the frame showing the rivets holding the front legs of the K member in place ??
On bracing the thing...this link takes you to a bolt-in rear leg set that radically stiffens the frame, converting your K into an X. It is built by ELpolacko, a very distinguished Hamber, and is so accurately made it is essentially a snap-in fit that perfectly matches the bolt holes right out of the box: http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/?product=1932-ford-rear-k-member-legs-straight
I have a pr. waiting to go in after this K member is installed. They look very Nice. Very good quality.
I can drill the holes into the frame,the question is which ones get rivets ? I don't think all of the leg holes are riveted.
It seems most of the '32 frames have a bulge above the rear axle snubber. Can that best be corrected with hammer and dolly or the use of some heat ?
When fixing the hump over the axle you also have to realize the rear horns may have sagged at the same time. How much will need to be measured via diagrams.
Just imagine a full tank of fuel, on the bumpy ass roads they had back then. No wonder Ford had to put the reinforcements inside the frame rails over the rear axle.
It would be good to put it in a fixture to make sure your starting square. If the rear frame horns are sagging, you wont realize it until you mount the body and see a big gap between the body and gas tank.
In this drawing it shows a dimension of 2 1/4" at the rear spreader bar to the lowest part of the frame. So setting on the ground, that measurement should give you an indication if the rear horns are sagging or not.
Clem, you would be correct. I take this frame saving very seriously. I trust it because... Welding on both sides Using fish plates Partial boxing Also this is the area where the X member legs join in to give their "x"tra support.
Update..... Cut the frt. crossmember and lowered it an 1". Removed all of the 1/4" plates. Bolted the K member back in and added the IC rear legs. Removed the rear crossmember and preparing for the A crossmember. Still could use some help on removing the bulges and raising the tail end of the frame. No frame table here. Thanks Terry
Most people use the Rad. mounting holes in the front crossmember to measure from! Remember to add 9/16" ! Quick reference to axle center line is 32 9/16" ! this is for hooking your tape, think "Hood".......... Ol Deuce
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