Technical 53 Chevy - Beeping Noise when Stopping

Thanks for your suggestion. Perhaps, I did take the rooster comb out and I had to replace it since the old one was bent. Hopefully that noise isn't something related to any work I had done. I'm not sure at what point I need to take it to a transmission shop.

I will recheck the fluid, take the shaft out to feel the u-joints, grease them up, check the differential fluid level again and also see if I can change the vacuum line to the trans, and also check the other vac lines while I'm at it. I'll plan to start there and report back.

 

That Chevy's beautiful. Worth anything it takes to find that confounded noise...
(I still think it's vacuum...and you DO have a vacuum line going down to transmission modulator...)
So disconnect the vacuum line to the modulator. Disconnect it at the top, where it's at the 'triple tree connection. Plug the ******, and drive it. Stop. Listen.
Never mind the 'friend' with the spray can, you won't need him.

This is driving me bats! (if it's doing the same to you by now, and it should, we are in a 'quandry'. When you're crazy enough to sell the car, I won't have the $$$ to buy it!)

 

Thanks you make good points! Here are some other shots I forgot to load on here. My ugly face is in one but I have proof I owned one of these cars should the day come i have to p*** this car on to someone else (Hopefully not for a while!)

I will look at the vac line to the transmission modulator as you suggested.

 

Does anyone think Valvoline Dex/Merc Full Synthetic is fine for a TH350 transmission (that's what I have in it)? I'm waiting for roommate to put Christmas stuff back in the garage before I put the Chevy up on jackstands and start replacing vacuum lines and checking u-joints etc.

I drove it today so it doesn't sit too long and the noise came only after 15 min of driving like the other times. Also, I tried again and I got the same exact beep/whine when switching from drive to neutral while rolling without even touching the brakes so it's not the brakes. I checked the fluid level after driving 20 minutes and it's where it should be.

 

If it were my car I'd put whatever the factory called for in that specific transmission. If thats not made anymore, the next generation equivalent. I read that all dexron trans fluids are compatible with their previous generation counterparts.

 

Thanks I heard the newer dexron is backwards compatible as well.

 

Go into your local Les Schwab, Goodyear, Firestone, etc service center, and explain to them what it's doing, but you want them to look at it immediately AFTER you've driven it, and gotten the "noise". I'm thinking front wheel bearings making the noise after they've gotten hot; maybe they need to be greased, or one needs to be replaced. Is the car a disc conversion or the front end clipped? I say front end, bearings most likely. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

K- after all the shenanigans....... I ask because I make my customers go through this...... And I make them make the sound in front of me so I get a feel= what speed, brakes/no brakes, in gear/not in gear .Beeping/chirping/squealing.... engine/trans/rear.Tell me where YOU THINK it's coming from. There is a difference! You established that it IS NOT applying the brakes=correct? And- from drive to neutral while coasting it will make the noise- correct?.
I'm just going to make a suggestion here, and take it for what it's worth to you......... Just have the car doing it's thing,and making it's sound, and let someone look at it.
Unless you know what does what and when,what is normal, and what is not, and can diagnose accordingly/repair, just bite the bullet and have someone have a look.
You've gotten a ton of help here with all your Q's, but if you want this solved in a timely matter, just take it to someone who know's what's going on.
Not being an *** hat to you, but if you want to keep ****ing around, that's your call.
If I had that B in front of me, it would only take minutes to figure out........ It's all about what you know,and possibly who.......... No worries, but the thread keeps going and going with no resolve...... Take it to someone/keep listening to "our" guesses,/ or keep searching......... i'de think you would want this taken care of by now.......

 

Hi yes 11" disc conversion kit put in July. I put new bearings and greased them up properly. I'm pretty sure the noise was there with the old ford pinto brakes.

 

Yup correct. The noise happens when not applying the brakes. Today I shifted from drive to neutral and got the same exact noise signature as was happening when slowing down (while not touching the brakes). Last time I tried this (I drove it two weeks ago before today) I got a weirder sound signature but within the same frequency range.

What you say is good advice. I know for sure that the transmission vacuum line is pretty old. I'm going to replace it, grease the u-joints, take the drive shaft off and check the u-joints for play, re-check the fluid level in the differential and then re drive it. Aside from that I think you are correct in that I should have someone look at it if the noise is still there after I do those things. I'll post back when I do those things and drive it.

 

I forgot to say, after I shifted from drive to neutral, and it made the noise, I left it in neutral and applied the brakes until it slowed down. No noise after that initial shift from drive to neutral so it's not brake related.

 

You dont need to remove the drive shaft to check the U joints for play. Just grab the drive shaft while its installed and see if you can move it side to side up and down. If it moves at all you need to replace the u joints.

 

Definitely easy to take out, and I guess that'll make it easier to locate the zirc and grease them. I still think any play or slop in the joint would display itself when pushing/pulling on the driveshaft installed.

OP dont check if its dry, grease it regardless since youre under there.

 

In your video I heard: a rattle (exhaust, bumper, fender, etc).
Chirping. This would be be annoying to me. Sounds like the belts and pulleys aren't properly aligned. Do you have power steering?
The little squeal at the end sounds like brakes to me. That may go away after the new parts wear-in a bit.
Most of all, I just hear an old car.
What do you have for interior? Headliner? Put in some sound-deadening insulation. Works wonders.

 

Thanks as I said quite a few times, that whine/squeel/beep comes in when the car is slowing down and no brakes applied so it's not brakes. It's probably transmission or driveshaft related. The rattle, chirping is not a belt, it's the shifter on the steering column (it goes away when I hold it in different positions).

 

Whine/Squeal/Beep should be the ***le of a new song about a couple doing the hokey pokey and then the raincoat breaks. "F"beep"K".

 

I say the squeal could be a rear drum brake shoe dragging, regardless of if you have applied the brake pedal.

 

Only If the U joints are so bad they are about to fall apart and there's red rust dust all over the drive shaft. Stevie wonder can see they are bad.
When they are in the beginning stages of failure its pretty hard to tell by wiggling the drive shaft checking for slop.

 

Without going through all the previous posts, has anyone mentioned a cracked flex plate as the source of the noise?

 

Not saying youre wrong, but I was taught to check them by grabbing the driveshaft and pulling up and down, rotate a little, pull up and down, etc. and that would display any play, even very minor play. If you search how to check your U joints online, the first 3 websites I clicked on also say to check them this way. I cant imagine your hand rotating the joint out of the car displaying anymore than doing it bolted up. If its bad, its gonna move some. To each their own, no harm in taking it down for further inspection.

I personally dont think thats whats going on here in this scenario but I hope OP gets to the bottom of it. Good luck!

 

I forgot, OP, make some witness marks on the driveshaft where its connected before removal so you put it back exactly where it was (rather than 180 out)

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I always remembered being told to make the marks with a chisel to put it back exactly how it came out. I will keep everyone informed when I get to putting the car on jackstands and doing some more inspection. Right now I'm on another thread working on a silly brake light/turn signal issue so I can at least keep driving the car.

 

Yikes that would **** if it were the issue.

 

Sounds like youre low on turn signal fluid....they sell it at walmart

 

I'll still go with a u-joint chirp. Most often heard at low speeds, taking off, coming to a stop. Anyone here live close by? Take them for a ride and you'll know in a few minutes. Or drive the car past them slow somewhere quiet. How old are the u-joints, do they have rust tracks running out of them?

 

I have no idea how old they are or the history of them or the driveshaft. I will take a look when I put it up on jackstands. Here are some photos I had found from December 2014 (some of them are before exhaust was redone) but I don't think they will help.

 

It's a easy job to replace the U-Joints and if I were in your shoes, I remove them and inspect them. Check for for wear, cracks, lack of grease, male or female. If they look ok, repack the bearings (careful not to let them fall out) and reinstall and see what happens. Some U-Joints have a zerk (grease fitting). If it's missing, put a new one on.
By the way, if any of those needle bearings are broken or missing, time for a new joint. Get that joint rockin'!

 

Easy and cheap once you identify what joints it has. Car Quest has a god online u-joint catalog that is truly invaluable. And it's a good basic skill to learn. All you need is a big vise, big hammer, some big sockets, maybe some pliers if it has outside clips.