1952-59 Ford My new 1956 Fairlane Sedan Project

Here she is! Just got delivered yesterday. She has a 272 and 3 speed on the floor and ****py fake patina paint that has to go ASAP. I would like to have the entire redone to near factory at some point with the original chrome trim on the doors put a bench seat back in front but at least the interior is good enough to cruise in while I tackle other issues. As you can see, it has replacement front door gl*** on the back seats there since the front door gl*** is missing currently. It also has all the original chrome side trim in the trunk in case I want to put that back on after the body work.

It runs and drives as is but I haven't had time to really feel it out and start taking things apart to see what it needs. But the plan is to pull the wheels and do a full inspection of the suspension and brakes first, then check out the light wiring because none of the lights work currently.

 

Congrats...sounds like your plans will have it going in the right direction. I love real patina on some trucks with signage on the doors, but it ends there. Good call.

 

Great build planned. Please keep us updated.

 

Any chance you could share some pictures of your shifter both from the topside and down under? interested to see the bracketry and mounting.

What kind of shifter and how does it do for you?

 

Congrats also. I agree with the fake patina. Looks like a nice solid project. Keep us posted!

 

Its been raining here in AZ for the past few days so I haven't really had a chance to drive it much except briefly around the block. The good news is that it drives better than I expected, although it obviously needs a ton of work. I messed around with the headlight switch and I can get all the lights to turn on, so while I do need to check into the switch/wiring I was still happy to see the lights actually functioned both inside and out.

The whole front end will need rebuild in the coming months but in order to feel safe driving it as is I will need to replace or rebuild the idler arm setup in it. It still has manual steering and it looks like they are repaired by simply replacing bushings, is that correct? I see bushings on rock auto, or Oreillys carries new arms with bushings, or bushings with repair kits with additional hardware. What is everyone else typically using on the manual steering setup to fix play in that area?

While a 302 is in the long term plans, the 272 Y block is leaking quite a bit of oil starting from the valve covers, so I will replace the valve cover gaskets in the mean time and get the motor cleaned off so I can inspect it better and make the most of the Y block while I have it and not dump oil everywhere including my garage.

This week I will also be ordering the Moog CC850 Aerostar springs, isolators, bump stops and rear lowering blocks. Plus the KYB KG5514 front shocks and Gabriel 49105 air shocks for the rear since I do plan on having people in the back and/or hauling stuff in the trunk to shows/events/swap meets.

I think that sums up stage 1 of making it safe and driver friendly. Stage 2 will be the complete suspension overhaul as mentioned above while doing body work when I have time. I work at a speed shop that does fabrication as well so sometime this week I will be staying late to learn how to weld as we fab up some new front seat brackets that are safer than the rigged up BS that was in there before. I ripped out the old stuff and made up some templates last night. Once the seats are re-installed I will be driving it down to the shop to weld in some D-rings in between the top and bottom seat cushions in the rear that I can attach my sons car seat to so cruising can be a family affair!

 

I do not have a ton of information on that setup yet but I did snap some quick photos as best as I could as I was heading out to work this morning:







I will try to get some better photos for you when I have it up in the air

 

Y-blocks are notorious for rear main leaks they originally used a rope seal Fel-Pro now makes a neoprene replacement for them,you will want this tool: http://www.lowes.com/pd_445739-48246-ATG7290607_0__ NAPA usually can get these also same part #. Loosen the main caps a couple of turns replace the seal and re-torque. Good time to renew the pan gasket also and don't forget to replace the crank case breather often forgotten by many.

 

This is probably the best way to fix the wiring since you don't have a lot of circuits: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-CIRCUIT-...ash=item4add90d80a:g:ZG4AAOSwstxVcJqj&vxp=mtr This will give you a few extra for add-ons,also most guys usually notice the headlights will be too dim for their liking the old circuit does not play well with newer halogen bulbs this will fix that:http://www.ebay.com/itm/361017529037?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT If you can get a complete idler arm that's the best route.

 

Those neoprene seals aren't always a cure-all for leaks either. I'm on the 2nd one in my '56 and it's wet. Will likely go with another rope seal if or when this one gets worse but I can live with mine as it is for now. Just the nature of the beast I guess.

 

Perfect! Thank you. A new wiring harness was in the longer term plans anyway so I will add that to the cars wish list!

If it comes down to a rear main seal oil repair I am not sure I will invest the time into it, I think I would sooner deal with the leaks, ***uming I can get rid of some by doing the valve covers, and start sourcing the required parts for a 302 swap.

 

My front end was horrible. Loose as all get out. I am replacing get all the a arm bushings,new idler arm with bushings,rebuild kit for the drag link,and rebuilt steering box. Oh and new sway bar bushings and links. A little wear here and there on these front ends will add up. One thing I would add is if you plan to rebuild your steering box and need a new worm and sector gear and it's a later 3 tooth sector try to find an earlier 2 tooth box. I just sent my box out and it's a 3 tooth sector and the sector is not available. The worm gear is though.

 

Love it, another 4 door, I'm looking forward to see what you come up with.
Shifter is very cool. Like danman I'd like to know more about that setup.
Congrats.

 

I need to adjust or rebuild my steering box badly, it has a lot of wheel movement without seeing any movement coming out of the box. It also seems to have a lot of movement in the shaft connecting to the box from the wheel although I have been unable to find a diagram about how it all works and gets adjusted. I saw in another thread it was suggested to a member to order the Shop Manual for the car since it is a great help and will answer many questions so I did that last night so I can avoid posting a million threads with questions.

 

Also in the FAQ section there should be an article on how to rebuild the front end on a 54-56 car. It was a big help.

 

Yeah I did see that and the links work but the data is no longer on that website because the pages are blank now unfortunately.

 

That was a very good article I see he wants to sell a copy of it so I clicked on the link $1,406.94 what an *** clown! I guess I'll have to delete the link

 

I was able to print it off without buying it. It was a total of 20 pages though.

 

If you want my copy papa. I send it to you when I'm done. I should have mine wrapped up in a month or two.

 

Glad you saved a copy,if only you could post it o a pdf link

 

Maybe. The links didn't work for me.

 

Jeff, if you want a copy to try and save in the FAQ section pm me your info and I will make a copy and send to you. I ***ume there are no infringements on copy writing since it was available to see and print online for free.

 

Links work fine for me

 

Papavolume,

Kind of late in responding to your photo posts but thanks... I wonder if that is the old Sparkomatic shifter? Funny how clean it looks when compared to the rest of the underbelly of the car. Whoever did the work cut a clean looking hole and the installation looks pretty good. I finally found a shifter boot for the 55 (see my blogaroni post soon when I can post up more photos) but it has to be so big to cover the shifter mechanism itself.

What are the plans for the y block?

 

Excellent those links worked great this time! The ones in the FAQ did not. That will be a lot of help. I just wish there was info in there about the steering box. Luckily I know that will be in the shop manual I ordered. Either way I will have to print those other guides out to have for additional reference.

I'll look for markings on the shifter and let you know what I find. The hole looks clean cut but I'd like a barrier between that and the carpet. I have a feeling that the car was actually well looked after and maintained up until recent years. The last owner really messed things up.

The good news is I finished making the new seat brackets today to make the current bucket seats safer while I search for a bench, I just didn't have time to get them reinstalled today. I'll do that this weekend and get it registered and insured tomorrow so I can start taking it out for some cruising.

 

Very good articles, thanks.

 

Maybe a little too late, but if those brackets don't work out...on my bucket seats I used Unistrut channels and hardware. Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. It's the heavy duty channel heat and air, and electrical contractors use to mount heavy equiptment up in the rafters, etc. Lots of heavy t-nuts, angles atc available, and cheap.

 

Thanks Jimmy2car,I will put a link to your pdf's in the FAQ so folks will have them in the future.

 

I spoke with Doc a while back and he explained the pricing. He has some serious health problems and can not do the printing and mailing at this time, so he did the outrageous pricing to stop the requests. Is that how I would do it, probably not, but that is his reason for the pricing. Good articles on his site.

 

Dan I sold a bunch of those shifters "back in the day" It is a Mr. Gasket Daytona series like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mr-Gasket-7...ter-NOS-409-/141874149602?hash=item21085bb8e2 These are no longer in production the newer Mr. G is basically the same as the Spectre unit sold at Pep Boys for $40.